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Anyway back to the topic, years ago I found GTX went very thin quite quickly. Haven't noticed that with modern oils. I guess that is what you mean about "feeling nice on the rub test"
I happilyuse Unipart 20/50 but would hesitate to use "any cheap oil". Many years ago I bought a Granada from a farmer, changed the oil and a few days later oil pressure wouldn't immediately come up. It then started to knock. Stripping I found the inside coated with black gunge and oil strainer caked up.
Coincidentally the Stag mag had an article from an American guy who'd had the same problem on his Stag and put it down to the new quality detergent oil washing the cheap oil generated gunge from the inside.
That's why I like this VR1 stuff - seems full of goodness after 3k - plus my engine appears to have been stripped for regasketing and chains 12k ago and the block looked like it had all been washed out quite thoroughly.... that and it's been running on VR1 for the past 9k...
Hiya guys, just a thought about American oils, it seem the makers, including my favourite '76, are being forced to remove an addative, the name escapes me, which leads to excessive wear in non-roller cam followers, now THAT'S scarey! I've switched to Millers semi-synth sport, like '76, it drains out almost as good as it went in. Martin.
I think it is zinc that is being removed from oils as catalytic converters don't like it. I think the 'classic oils are allowed to retain it. Is this right?
Do American oil manufacturers recognise the existenceof classic oils ? I have a feeling they don't, and they certainly won't make any concessions to UK users, in fact it's probably only a matter of time before we follow suit - as usual !
I have just swiched to Millers Classic Sport semi synthetic 20W/50 having used Hallfords own classic 20W/50 the last 3 oil changes. Good oil pressure hot and cold. I do tend to change the oil every 2000 miles
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