I fitted a digital temp gauge, and have been trying out different places around the engine surfaces, eg hoses, metal parts (not exhaust!) to place the sensor. The hottest place I could find read about 65 to 70 deg C which is lower than I expected. Has anyone else found that external surface temps are that cool? I was avoiding having to insert the sensor into a hose, but will if necessary.
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That's about what I got on mine, using a non-contact infra-red thermometer.
My dash thermometer sensor is strapped to the RH rear inlet manifold which was the hottest place I found.Richard
Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d. -
I dont know if this applies to the temp guage that Chris has fitted, but the non contact IR type only give accurate readings from dull black surfaces (the lighter and more reflective the surface the more inaccurate).Originally posted by mole42 View Post
Have only recently got mine and tested on boiling kettle. Shiny surface only read 55 deg but matt black surround to visible fill window gave 96 deg. Have not had chance to try on "hot" Stag as yet.
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So you only get about 70 from the one strapped to the inlet manifold?Originally posted by mole42 View PostComment
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Why not place it where the original sensor is positioned?
I'm guessing it was put there for a reason.Comment
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Yes, that is where I would like it ideally, but, I dont want to remove the original sender, and so I thought I could not attach it there easily. I might try strapping the sensor to the brass body of the original sender, and see if it reads nearer what I would expect (85C).Last edited by V Mad; 18 September 2015, 12:51.Comment
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I'm not clear what you're trying to achieve, Chris or what you're going to do with the additional information.Originally posted by V Mad View Post
My car has never overheated since I got it a year ago - Temp always in the range around the vertical position (and the PO assured me that he had never had any issue). I recently changed the standard electrical Temp guage for a mechanical capiliary type (combined with oill pressure, the main reason for the change), with the sensor fitted to the "normal" position at the rear of the LH bank. This shows running temperatures in the range 85 - 93 deg. At first, I was alarmed to see the needle moving up following switch-off (sometimes going above 100) as a result of heat soak, but then figured that this would have been happening previously, but just not visible with the ignition off. I figured that if this temp increase could be reduced, it might be beneficial to extending the life of the head gaskets (reducing the variable expansion differences between the iron & aluminium). I've since started operating a "cooling-off" phase before switch-off for a couple of minutes (until the electric fan switches off) just so that some of the heat-soak release can be carried away with circulating water. How much difference this makes to the engine, I don't know, but I feel better!
(and a good chance for SWMBO to have a ciggy). Otherwise, I'm using the inforormation just to spot inconsistencies with "normal" so that I get a heads-up of developing problems before anything goes bang. All part of Stag-paranoia.
Don't know if this helps, but I think your answer will become clearer when you decide what it is you're wanting to show.
Good luck
JonnoWhite 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few modsComment
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The sensor on my dash oil/water gauge is too long to fit in the pocket at the rear of the LH head. Until I get around to making an adaptor, it's cable tied to the inlet manifold so it will be showing quite a bit cooler than realty. However, my concern is to see if the engine gets hot and bothered in any usual contitions rather than an absolute measure of the temperature so I don't mind if it reads a bit low.
I think the temperature readings I and others have taken using non-contact thermometers are simply a way of reassuring myself that the cooling system is doing something approaching the manufacturers' specification. I wouldn't take any numbers from a non-calibrated thermometer used in a casual way by non-trained operators as anything like gospel. So long as my engine doesn't start to cook in my normal day-to-day use of the car, I'm not going to worry.
However, YMMV!Richard
Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.Comment
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Richard,
There are adaptors out there - I got my guage with one included - IIRC they're selling for ~£8 - 10, so unless you want the engineering challenge ....
JonnoWhite 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few modsComment
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That would work, but stung into action by Jonno, I ordered one from Demon Tweeks this morning!
The lathe can sleep a little while longer.Richard
Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.Comment
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Originally posted by Staggard View PostSpeedograph Richfield Ltd, Classic Automotive Online You must be located in a different country for removal of VAT Item Name Quantity Price Total Water Temperature Adaptor TE5 (remove) £3.50 £3.50 Subtotal £3.50 Current shipping is Shipping £0.00 Tax £0.70 Your Location : UNITED KINGDOM- change Currency is British Pound Total £4.20 Comment
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valve.jpg i made this for a high point bleed but added the sender unit for a digital gauge later a 3/8 pipe it goes in the top return hose just before the radiator I seem to run about 185 to 190 on the digital gauge. Don't have to worry about the old temp gauges.Comment
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Nice bit of design and machining there elvimto
I love deadlines - I like the whooshing sound they make as they pass by!Comment
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So far I have not had much success using the temperature sensor strapped to the surface of the engine. I fitted it to the body of the original sender, and during a drive out yesterday the reading varied from 45 to 80 when fully warmed up. I think air circulating in the engine bay affects it. I have now tried covering it with some rubber to see if that helps insulate it from drafts. Will see on the next run.Comment
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