High torque starter motors

[mal fitz]

Afternoon all,
Just looking at the high torque starter motors available, the power light model looks widely advertised, anyone got any experience with these or can recommend a better one?

Thanks again

M

[DJT]

Save your money. The original ones last for years, and years, and years. Never had to change one yet. (That will no doubt be the kiss of death for mine..... )

[Staggard]

I agree with Dave recon the one you have, including the solenoid.Graham

[tractorjames]

I stripped my original starter down, cleaned it and that was it. The brushes had 1mm of wear on them and the rest was like new. I just put it back together and its been working perfect since.

James

[mike@thenook]

I did replace mine with a HT unit some while back; I don't much like the "modern" noise it makes, it does start the car very easily though

[jleyton]

I agree with Dave and Graham, but Edd is a fan of the HT starter.

Cheers

Julian

[Motorsport Micky]

All been said above, use your money to buy something important...more beer.

We moan when the factory supplied badly developed parts which fail continually and then we change parts which will outlast us for bling which won't. If you have a starting problem it will almost certainly be a low voltage problem caused by corrosion on switches, relays, solenoid and all the various spades in the starting circuit. Check out the search facility, it's been done to death and has loads of suppliers sourced for more direct short looms and relays etc which would help any"clicking" bad starting caused by lack of volts.
Then again it's your car you can fit what you want and if the HT starter is your bag then go for it.

Micky

[edd]

I agree with Dave and Graham, but Edd is a fan of the HT starter.

Cheers

Julian

I do but mine was replaced due to mine sheering just about every bolt whilst trying to recon it. I was really impressed with the pros Best you keep to a respected make however there are some horrir stories but that's the same as any poorly made product.
The fact I use my car not very often therefore I won't have a strong battery every time my starter is used and will drain less of what power I have especially if stradded with a unrelated starter problem and lots of turning over is required.
I will report back in 40 years time

[tractorjames]

These high torque starters seem more tolerant to issues with the starting system, weak battery, bad connections etc.

Its surprising what difference can be made by shining up the ends of the leads and earth points and sanding/coating the battery terminals/clamps with Vaseline.

Another thing to consider may be the fact that if the starter is sapping all the battery power, the ignition system may be weak, causing poorer starting although I don't know how badly this will affect the stag. I presume the ballast resistor type setup should help prevent this issue???

In the end I decided that the original is fine but I can see why people go for the high torque.


James

[marshman]

These high torque starters seem more tolerant to issues with the starting system, weak battery, bad connections etc.


James

That may be the case - and looking at the specs for them they seem to say that they use less power etc. BUT on Friday I went to start my Stag and when I turned the ignition on there was just 1 half hearted click from the petrol pump and a very dim oil and ign light. Turning the key further did nothing (no surprise really). Yours truly had left the radio on (not wired into ignition controlled supply so no sympathy). Anyway connected the battery charger and left it on for just 10 minutes (it's only a cheap 4 amp one), came back to the car and tried again. Fuel pump clicked for a few seconds, when it stopped I pulled out the choke and turned the key, the starter engaged and very, very sluggishly turned the engine over, after what I guess to be two revolutions (less than 2 seconds) the engine burst into life. Now the starter is an original one (may be not THE original), the battery was clearly pretty flat, it runs on twin points - not electronic ignition - has standard coil and ballast resistor fitted, no extra bypass relays or looms - in fact apart from the electric fan fitted by a previous owner it is pretty much as it left the factory. My point is the same as others have said - if everything is working properly there is nothing wrong with the original starter motor (or carbs, or points, or radiator, or airfilter, or oilfilter, or expansion bottle!!, etc, etc.). Not sure why the original poster wanted info on the high torque starter but it is not a cure problems elsewhere.

If you do insist on getting one then as Edd says make sure you get a good quality one and not one made from "chinese chocolate",

Roger

[Paul Roberts]

The fact is: if you have no volts to your starter motor it won't turn, and thus it won't turn your engine over, regardless of expectation.

Equally, most starter motors are - of themselves- incredibly robust, but, if your starter has spent most of its' life churning a recalcitrant engine; it will, probably, be shot away and will need servicing or replacement.

There are so many well documented reasons, for no volts/no turning, it would be foolish to suggest any one cause.

I have installed a high torque unit, with a new - dedicated - wiring circuit and am delighted. I really don't give a s*** about the noise it makes before the motor fires up..., just so long as it does.

Each to their own.

[Staggard]

I know this will upset, but its not really "each to there own" when you are trying to give advice to a fellow member how to save money Ect. You cant really expect a 40 year old starter to work on relentlessly without attention. If you strip one clean up the armature stick in a new set of brushes strip the solenoid and service it as I have said previously there is no reason it wont work for another 40 years. Fit a relay to take the strain off the ign switch contacts job done for £20. Or you can spend £160 on a High Toque starter which is basically a reduction geared starter which is great if you are trying to turn over a 11 to 1 race engine but to be fair you could probably start a Stag with a cranking handle. Bearing in mind I used to work on these mothers from when they were new and yes Stags had a fair few problems but the starter was never one of them this has developed in later years when contacts have worn or corroded or burnt. I would like to ask to the guys who have these starters is don't they run in constant mesh with the ring gear ?? only because I cant see how they engage/disengage unless they have a one way clutch. Running for cover Graham

[edd]

That may be the case - and looking at the specs for them they seem to say that they use less power etc. BUT on Friday I went to start my Stag and when I turned the ignition on there was just 1 half hearted click from the petrol pump and a very dim oil and ign light. Turning the key further did nothing (no surprise really). Yours truly had left the radio on (not wired into ignition controlled supply so no sympathy). Anyway connected the battery charger and left it on for just 10 minutes (it's only a cheap 4 amp one), came back to the car and tried again. Fuel pump clicked for a few seconds, when it stopped I pulled out the choke and turned the key, the starter engaged and very, very sluggishly turned the engine over, after what I guess to be two revolutions (less than 2 seconds) the engine burst into life. Now the starter is an original one (may be not THE original), the battery was clearly pretty flat, it runs on twin points - not electronic ignition - has standard coil and ballast resistor fitted, no extra bypass relays or looms - in fact apart from the electric fan fitted by a previous owner it is pretty much as it left the factory. My point is the same as others have said - if everything is working properly there is nothing wrong with the original starter motor (or carbs, or points, or radiator, or airfilter, or oilfilter, or expansion bottle!!, etc, etc.). Not sure why the original poster wanted info on the high torque starter but it is not a cure problems elsewhere.

If you do insist on getting one then as Edd says make sure you get a good quality one and not one made from "chinese chocolate",

Roger

The difference being when your stranded ie no batery charger and a power supply the high torque might just save the day. as for the rest of the design of the stags original cooling and putting a water pump at the top reminds me of the chocolate tea pot idea. It's about percentages not the one person who says mine is ok what's the problem. It's also about future prevention.

[marshman]

The difference being when your stranded ie no battery charger and a power supply the high torque might just save the day. as for the rest of the design of the stags original cooling and putting a water pump at the top reminds me of the chocolate tea pot idea. It's about percentages not the one person who says mine is ok what's the problem. It's also about future prevention.

Hi Edd,
Don't disagree with anything you've said. Your decision was made as you totally rebuilt your car and as you said attempted to refurb the original starter. At that point you simply bought what in your opinion was the best replacement as the original was knackered and beyond help! The point I was trying to make is that there seems to me to be a lot of people posting on here and elsewhere about replacing bits if they have a problem with the car - i.e. car won't start easily - will then spend money on a new starter when that is not the cause of the poor starting. Another recent example was the debate over carbs - they have poor running, starting etc. Get their strommies refurbed and still have the same problems, then replace with an alternative Holley/Weber or what ever and then have yet more problems (oil leaks etc.), as was identified often (not always) the problem was that the engine itself was worn - poor compression, burning oil etc. If that problem was sorted the original refurbed Strommies would have been fine and no need for a new starter. Same with, dare I mention it, H.T., they will not cure a basic cooling system fault, leaks, HGF, blocked rad etc., but they can give you a margin of "safety" and peace of mind. But what I said still holds true - "if everything is working properly" there is no need to replace it with an uprated/redesigned/modified whatever. If you want to do it for peace of mind or because you like the look of it or you just like playing then great, but don't do it to cover up a basic problem elsewhere.

Roger

[LAMBRETTLAD]

At a recent show one chap took about five minuets rubbishing my electric and cooling systems,cause they were not the same as his,when I asked him how many he had fitted ? NONE !!!!!!!!

Some advice is experienced based ,some is hear say,some is perceived wisdom,best to say as you see it and the recipient makes up their own mind ?

So long as it's honest as far as I'm concerned it's very welcome. I think 99% of the ideas offered on here are spot on