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    Wheel nuts

    I have standard alloys and have fitted the stainless steel wheel nuts that you can get from most places, mine I think came from Paddocks. When fitting my wheels I use 2 steel wheel nuts as they have a taper and centre then wheel on the studs. Last night I loosened very slightly all four wheel nuts to see how much anti clockwise / clockwise play there was and was quite surprised as to how much I had. I haven't measured the play.

    The standard wheel nuts made of alloy are different design to the stainless nuts I have the difference being the alloy ones have a tapered collar, whereas the stainless don't and just clamp the wheel to the hub.

    Is this what the rest of you have or can I buy other wheel nuts with tapers made of stainless steel?

    Cheers
    Andrew
    Yellow Rules OK

    #2
    mine are the same,hadn't noticed any play in the wheel

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Andrew,

      You might find it useful to look at a thread I started back in 2013 on this subject.

      Sorry, I cant post a link on this tablet but just search for 'Are my nuts big enough ?'

      The vibration I described in that thread was only finally eradicated when I fitted new wheels.

      Cheers

      Julian

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks Julian, interesting post. You ention that is was better with Phils nuts fitted, did that last, or did the problem come back as usual? You say you replaced your wheels, presume for standard Stag alloys?

        Cheers
        Andrew
        Yellow Rules OK

        Comment


          #5
          I came across this issue many years ago. Some of the stainless steel nuts have their shank diameter machined too small on the diameter. You then have no chance of the wheel being mounted centralised.
          The alloy wheels are really a rubbish design. Steel wheels are centralised with the nuts being a taper, but not possible with the alloy wheel nuts all you are relying on are the nuts being a good fit, without any central hub location either.
          Mike.
          74 Stag (Best Modified 2007), 02 Maserati 4200, 17 BMW M140i, 00 Mitsubishi Pinin

          Comment


            #6
            Mike's right - the stag alloy standard wheels are a very poor design and hopelessly made, the wheel nuts particularly having no centralising effect whatsoever.

            Scrap them Andrew and get some Miniltes/Minators or probably anything made by anyone else that actually have nuts with a taper - My Minator's have proper tapered nuts.
            Mike

            Comment


              #7
              I know what you mean Mike but.........I like the Stag alloys and there is an element in me that wants to beat this problem.

              I am going to measure the wheel nuts I have fitted and see how it compares to teh measurements that were discussed in Julians post.

              Yellow Rules OK

              Comment


                #8
                Andrew, you say that the original alloy nuts have a tapered collar? I hadnt noticed that, but I have checked the original alloys on my car and they have a small tapered leading edge, which is not present on the aftermarket steel nuts. So I think you have got to the bottom of it already. The answer is to try to get some steel ones made to the original spec. Maybe Chris Witor might have some or be willing to get some made?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Andrew S View Post
                  Thanks Julian, interesting post. You ention that is was better with Phils nuts fitted, did that last, or did the problem come back as usual? You say you replaced your wheels, presume for standard Stag alloys?

                  Cheers
                  Andrew
                  Hi Andrew,

                  Because my vibration was so irregular and intermittent it was hard to tell what improved things and what didn't

                  However, I've done about 2000 miles since fitting the new wheels - which are standard alloys from Rimmers, when they had one of their offers on - and I've not had any vibration and so I'm happy that that's solved it (famous last words )

                  Cheers

                  Julian

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks Chris, yeh, it's a tiny tapering edge on the alloy wheel nuts. If they are 7/16ths thread, there maybe other aftermarket options ��
                    Yellow Rules OK

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cheers Julian, glad to hear yours is ok and I'll try other wheels as a test but will look into measuring the nuts I have fitted and then trying other wheels as a further test.
                      Yellow Rules OK

                      Comment


                        #12
                        IMG_1565.JPGIMG_1563.JPGIMG_1564.JPGI got Russ to turn mine down in his lathe and we sleeved them with thin wall stainless steel tube with the OD a tight fit in the wheels.

                        I don't know weather you can see by these photo's There was a problem with some of them leaving the sleeve in the wheel when you undid them so I scroll pined the sleeve to the wheel nut.
                        Last edited by Staggard; 2 October 2015, 10:57.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks Graham, sorry cant open the link.

                          If I could measure the wheel hole accurately, it would allow me to measure the play I have. I was disappointed to measure the the stainless steel nuts last night at 18.50mm each, so must be play in the wheel hole

                          Will get one of the wheels off and see whats what at the weekend
                          Yellow Rules OK

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Its interesting to see people criticising the original design.
                            The original alloy nuts & wheels do work well until abused.
                            If they get replaced with aftermarket items without all the correct details (see below), the original design is lost.
                            How can that be blamed on the original design?

                            Originally posted by Andrew S View Post
                            I have standard alloys and have fitted the stainless steel wheel nuts that you can get from most places, mine I think came from Paddocks. When fitting my wheels I use 2 steel wheel nuts as they have a taper and centre then wheel on the studs. Last night I loosened very slightly all four wheel nuts to see how much anti clockwise / clockwise play there was and was quite surprised as to how much I had. I haven't measured the play.

                            The standard wheel nuts made of alloy are different design to the stainless nuts I have the difference being the alloy ones have a tapered collar, whereas the stainless don't and just clamp the wheel to the hub.

                            Is this what the rest of you have or can I buy other wheel nuts with tapers made of stainless steel?

                            Cheers
                            Andrew
                            There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
                            2.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by jbuckl View Post
                              Its interesting to see people criticising the original design.
                              The original alloy nuts & wheels do work well until abused.
                              If they get replaced with aftermarket items without all the correct details (see below), the original design is lost.
                              How can that be blamed on the original design?
                              More or less what I said; the taper is an important part of the design, however, I would not use alloy nuts, I think s/steel is safer.

                              Comment

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