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Timing chains how bad a job is it? german ones or not?

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    Timing chains how bad a job is it? german ones or not?

    Timing chains Is this a job for a garage?

    And do i go for the german ones?

    #2
    imported post

    I was told the German ones are stronger but they don’t give any indication that failure is imminent

    i.e. rattle.



    Not much help but information………..


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      #3
      imported post

      Thanks that answers that part,

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        A DIY job, just use common sense and make sure its timed up properly afterwards and before starting the engine. I religously followed the manual on adjusting but Tony Hart's video suggests he leaves them slightly slacker than I have in past.

        It can be difficult getting the timing cover back on between heads and sump. Be very carefull you don't damage the head gasket as from experience they're a pig to straighten once bent. I have heard that an easier way is to cut the sump gasket flush with block, giving a bit more spaceand use instant gasket to seal.

        In fact when I removed the front cover to replace chains I found that last time I'd damaged the sump gasket anyway (hence the oil leak) and ended up using silicone goo.

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          #5
          imported post

          Sheepdip wrote:
          A DIY job, just use common sense and make sure its timed up properly afterwards and before starting the engine. I religously followed the manual on adjusting but Tony Hart's video suggests he leaves them slightly slacker than I have in past.

          It can be difficult getting the timing cover back on between heads and sump. Be very carefull you don't damage the head gasket as from experience they're a pig to straighten once bent. I have heard that an easier way is to cut the sump gasket flush with block, giving a bit more spaceand use instant gasket to seal.

          In fact when I removed the front cover to replace chains I found that last time I'd damaged the sump gasket anyway (hence the oil leak) and ended up using silicone goo.
          I did mine here in Tenerife when I had the Heads off changing the gaskets & used brand new Timing Chains that were in the spares collection given to me by the previous owner, but what type they were I can't remember.
          I too had problems with the sump gasket & had to cut away the old one & cut & stick on a new front end piece.
          Haven't seen the Tony Hart video so can't comment but I made mine fairly tight and naturally replaced the tensioners at the same time (the old ones had slight score marks on them).

          Terry

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            #6
            imported post

            I'mfairly surethe issue with the sump gasket is due to the flimsy nature of the aftermarket ones. I've never managed to get a leak free sump without using gasket goo, which means whenyou come to do the chains you wreck the sump gasket trying to free the sump from the timing cover

            I've now got a OEM Unipart sump gasket fitted, no goo used and it's leak free. It's at least 3 times thicker that the partern ones. The instructions in the ROM to lower the sumpmake more sense if the gasket isn't glued on!




            1976 Triumph V8 Manual/OD in BRG

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              #7
              imported post

              Martin B wrote:
              Timing chains Is this a job for a garage?

              And do i go for the german ones?
              The only german chains I'd fit to my Stag are the ones marked Jwis. Top quality chain. Renolds marked chains are OEM and also good.




              1976 Triumph V8 Manual/OD in BRG

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                #8
                imported post

                I spoke to Mick at E.J.Wards with regard to German orOEM chains. He strongly advised against using the German type due to their brittle nature and propensity to 'let go' and destroy the engine, rather than stretch and give warning.

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  I recently changed my chains and was advised to go for the German chains by S.O.C. Spares as Mike Allen who is the technical adviser for the club has done 80,000 miles on his German ones with no problems. If you loosen the sump bolts and lower the sump, it will give you more clearance for the gaskets. There are some dodgy standard chains out there and apparently 2 different types of Rolon chains, if made in India= give them a wide berth

                  Bob

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                    #10
                    imported post

                    Should the sprokets be changed at the same time as the chains?

                    Brian
                    Drive a Stag every day... it's wonderful!

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                      #11
                      imported post

                      How often should they be changed my engine has done 48000 and to the best of my knowledge they have never been changed . No signs of any rattle though

                      john
                      MK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.

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                        #12
                        imported post

                        Gresley wrote:
                        Should the sprokets be changed at the same time as the chains?

                        Brian
                        Brian

                        It depends on how many miles the chains have done, on inspection, if the teeth look worn or badly rounded on the tips, then change them. If they look O.K. then leave them alone. The original sprockets are probably of a better quality than the new ones. The new ones are County brand- a name to use with caution.

                        Bob

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                          #13
                          imported post

                          jamcarr2 wrote:
                          How often should they be changed my engine has done 48000 and to the best of my knowledge they have never been changed . No signs of any rattle though

                          john
                          John

                          The rule of thumb is 25-30,000mls on standard chains. If you do renew them, keep the original tensioner holders and just replace the feet(pads)

                          Bob

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