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    How much to cut off?

    My restoration has been stalled for about 18 months whilst trying to catch up on 3 years on excessive to the states and showing two litters of Clumber Spaniel puppies!

    So, I went back to the lock up this weekend and re-introduced myself to the Stag!

    So far I have removed the offside outer sill to find the inner reasonably sound apart from an area around the drivers door.

    The floor has rotted out as well as the end of the two outriggers in that area.

    I have a new floor and two new outriggers, but it seems a shame to have to remove it all when it's only the last 4" of the outriggers that has rotted. So....

    My plan is to cut back the floor to good metal, probably about 4" in from the inner sill. At the same time, only remove the rotten part of the outriggers, then cut the new parts to fill the space, use a joggled edge to overlap the old and new and seam weld the lot.

    Is that a reasonable approach and if you want pictures it will be a few days!

    Cheers

    Peter
    P.S. The "other" Stag is still in disgrace with a stuck clutch and blown master brake cylinder!

    #2
    Hi Peter. Done and finished to a good standard I don't see any problem with that. . I have gas and tig welded and repaired various car floor sections including my own Stag for the last 50 years. So have ago and Good Luck.
    Cheers Ian A

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      #3
      Peter

      that sounds okay to me,are they original riggers or have they been replaced before,i mite replace the whole of the riggers

      dave

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Peter

        I don't see any problem with your approach but it will probably be quicker to replace the whole section of the floor and the outrigger.

        Enjoy

        Paul
        Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

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          #5
          I would think replacing the whole section would be the way to go. The section may not be an exact match either. It's also another area where suppliers differ. I had one section arrive that was really think and strong. I purchased a rad support from a local chap who also had a out rigger and the one he had was really thin. I remember thinking I'm glad I didn't fit that type.
          Edd

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            #6
            I'd be going for the complete outrigger, certainly and probably the floor, although I quite understand how you feel about having to cut off and scrap good metal.

            I replaced a floorpan and outrigger earlier this year and the outrigger I got from Robsport was good and thick. In fact I think it would be too thick to joggle easily.

            Cheers

            Julian

            Comment


              #7
              Replace the whole section where possible, be worth it in the end instead of 'patching'.
              I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

              Comment


                #8
                It can be a bit of a juggle to get the floor and the outriggers all mated together (floor panels are flimsy and not well pressed as Edd mentions above) but I think a full outrigger is definitely the way to go.
                Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                Comment


                  #9
                  On one side i had to replace the whole front floor so i used a new outrigger. On the drivers side the floor was mostly good so i made up a new end for the outrigger and seam welded it in. I tend to try and keep as much of the original stuff as i can. I didn't joggle it though as that would create a rust trap inside the outrigger so i just butted it up and ran a seam weld around it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The guy who did my car reckons it's best to keep as much of the original panels (if they're good) as possible! But he fitted a new complete outrigger

                    Jason

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                      #11
                      i was tiring to keep mine as original as possible,put replace the whole of the out riggers,and went to the trouble of making new riggers,as original rear ones are made in two half's

                      Dave

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If you're fitting new front wings be wary of the fit. I had a new RH wing fitted and the flange where the drivers door fits is t deep enough, the resto guy had to "fettle" it quite a bit

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by stagstan View Post
                          If you're fitting new front wings be wary of the fit. I had a new RH wing fitted and the flange where the drivers door fits is t deep enough, the resto guy had to "fettle" it quite a bit
                          I think its only the RH wing that needs work to fit,the tooling for the press must be starting to wear

                          dave

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by new to this View Post
                            I think its only the RH wing that needs work to fit,the tooling for the press must be starting to wear

                            dave
                            Yeah well, what do you expect for £350????

                            Comment

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