Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Choke light on position

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Choke light on position

    I hope to fit a new choke tomorrow,my new knobless choke has two hole on the shaft to fit the warning light on to ,do I fit the little plunger into the bottom one or the first (looking from the drivers seat ) or neither ? ,just thought of that one !

    Comments please

    Cheers Alex

    Ps the old one isn't the same ,that would make life too easy ;(

    #2
    Had a pretty good day working on the stag,with only one major headache,I had to use a cutting disk to free the drivers side sun visor off !!! still now have two brand new working visors .Plus a functioning ,from both doors,a car alarm having fitted new footwell lights

    but chickened out of the choke till tomorrow ,having tried for hours last week with a pre fitted nob .

    Comment


      #3
      This is a ball bashing job ,,but it's in ,

      would not fit in with choke switch connected ,so took it off and spent a good hour trying to get it back on !!!!!!,

      hope it works ,supplier sent wrong knob ,hopefully it will arrive friday am.one hell of a bend so near to the knob end. (oops !!!!!)

      why oh why didn't triumph put the choke into right hand dash or just underneath it ,so much less *&^%±!!!!!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by LAMBRETTLAD View Post
        This is a ball bashing job ,,but it's in ,

        would not fit in with choke switch connected ,so took it off and spent a good hour trying to get it back on !!!!!!,

        hope it works ,supplier sent wrong knob ,hopefully it will arrive friday am.one hell of a bend so near to the knob end. (oops !!!!!)

        why oh why didn't triumph put the choke into right hand dash or just underneath it ,so much less *&^%±!!!!!


        Cant you move it to rear heated screen switch position? I'm sure some one on here did that a few years ago

        Jason

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by stagstan View Post
          [/B]
          Cant you move it to rear heated screen switch position? I'm sure some one on here did that a few years ago

          Jason
          Don't tell him that NOW!
          I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Jeff View Post
            Don't tell him that NOW!

            Comment


              #7
              Typical of the stag ,it comes back and bites !!!!! thought the job was done ,then the right hand cable nipple has threaded ,so I've taken a trip to the local motorbike repair shop for a solderless nipple ,which i hope holds until i take the carbs off and dill the old one out ,a bodge I know but ...................

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by stagstan View Post
                [/B]
                Cant you move it to rear heated screen switch position? I'm sure some one on here did that a few years ago
                Jason
                I, for one, have done it and very pleased that I did. The cable run is smoother and it makes the knob that little bit more convenient.

                However, it is not that straightforward a job. You need to make up a loom extension for the HRS switch and bulb IIRC.

                I think the knob was on the left because, originally, the States wete the key target market for the Stag (something like 90% of TRs were sold in USA)

                Cheers

                Julian

                Comment


                  #9
                  I have shifted the choke to the r/hand side of the console, mainly being large bodied and short armed I couldn't reach it with the seatbelt on. I guess the Stag being aimed at the American market and couldn't be bothered providing left and r/hand versions.
                  Cheers Ian A

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Haven't had the Stag very long so don't know what to expect in some areas. My Choke works OK but very stiff to pull it out. Was wondering whether to try to get some WD40 down it but don't want to make it worse if that's a bad idea. Grateful for any thoughts from those in the know.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Grd, just depress the throttle pedal before you pull the choke out.
                      steve.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by GRD View Post
                        Haven't had the Stag very long so don't know what to expect in some areas. My Choke works OK but very stiff to pull it out. Was wondering whether to try to get some WD40 down it but don't want to make it worse if that's a bad idea. Grateful for any thoughts from those in the know.
                        Before you pull the choke out press the throttle pedal down about halfway, It take the load of the fast idle cam and puts less stress on the cables
                        Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks didn't know about that one

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by GRD View Post
                            Thanks didn't know about that one
                            Yep, that's a really good tip - do it every time myself - and the Strombergs don't have an accelerator pump, like fixed jet carbs, so you don't have to worry about flooding the engine by pressing the accelerator pedal.


                            Cheers

                            Julian

                            Comment


                              #15
                              My 2p:-

                              Fitted a new cable to a fellow SOC members car earlier this year, the part being 'NOS' from an abandoned restoration.

                              A couple of pulls and the inners pulled out of the knob spindle.

                              The fix was to carefully cross drill (3.0mm iirc) the peened area of the knob spindle one side only, refit the inner cables, flux & fill the drilled area with solder.

                              A micro torch was used for the soldering.

                              This has worked well for sometime now.

                              It would have been quicker, possible, cheaper & maybe more effective imho to have just fitted new inners to the old cable (the inners being the only items that were bad)

                              At the same time, the inner cables carb ends were sweated with solder to prevent fraying.

                              If the knob & outer cable is ok, this is a useful option i think.

                              Comment

                              canli bahis siteleri bahis siteleri ecebet.net
                              Chad fucks Amara Romanis ass on his top ?????????????? ???? ?????? ?????? ? ??????? fotos de hombres mostrando el pene
                              güvenilir bahis siteleri
                              Working...
                              X