Having started the engine and checked with a voltmeter, there is no charge being sent to the battery as it measures 12.5 to 12.7 volts while it should, I understand, be registering something in the region of 14 volts. What have I done wrong or what have I left out??
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
EJ Ward Alternator
Collapse
X
-
EJ Ward Alternator
I have fitted an EJ Ward alternator to the passenger side of the engine as part of the EWP project. I also bought the extended harness from EJ Ward - incidentally these came without instructions! Having removed the old harness I attached the new harness to the alternator (no problem there as there is only way to do it) which left me with 2 thick brow wires and a yellow/brown thin wire and another brown thin wire with a female connector. I attached the thick brown ones in no particular order and the brown/yellow one to the other connection in the old harness. That left me with the thin brown wire with a female connector at the alternator side - this wire has been left unattached as there was no obvious connection point on the old harness.
Having started the engine and checked with a voltmeter, there is no charge being sent to the battery as it measures 12.5 to 12.7 volts while it should, I understand, be registering something in the region of 14 volts. What have I done wrong or what have I left out??Tags: None
-
I think you will find there is a small connection on back of new alternator. Did mine to make way for the EWP.Originally posted by ham204stag View PostI have fitted an EJ Ward alternator to the passenger side of the engine as part of the EWP project. I also bought the extended harness from EJ Ward - incidentally these came without instructions! Having removed the old harness I attached the new harness to the alternator (no problem there as there is only way to do it) which left me with 2 thick brow wires and a yellow/brown thin wire and another brown thin wire with a female connector. I attached the thick brown ones in no particular order and the brown/yellow one to the other connection in the old harness. That left me with the thin brown wire with a female connector at the alternator side - this wire has been left unattached as there was no obvious connection point on the old harness.
Having started the engine and checked with a voltmeter, there is no charge being sent to the battery as it measures 12.5 to 12.7 volts while it should, I understand, be registering something in the region of 14 volts. What have I done wrong or what have I left out??
Comment
-
ham204stag -
Originally posted by ham204stag View Postok - but what about the other (old harness) end?EJ Ward think its beneath them to send instructions and emails are being ignored.
In the recent suppliers survey thread. I stated this was my experience of Wards as well. you have to continually chase them
Ian.Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
Comment
-
ham204stag
Is there a way I can check that the alternator is working in the first place, apart from checking the voltage at the battery end?
Comment
-
Without the IGN warning light ON, the alternator won't get going. It needs the current through the bulb into the alternator to start it all off.
Plain brown wires are battery live and the thin one is probably a remote sense wire so the alternator can get the voltage correct. Where is it connected at the 'other' end?
Just to re-empasise, if the IGN lamp doesn't come on before you crank the engine, then it is unlikely that the alternator will work!
Cheers,
Mike.Mine since 1987. Finished a 20+ year rebuild in 2012. One of many Triumphs and a 1949 LandRover!
Comment
-
ham204stag
This is interesting - the car never had the ignition light 'on' since I had it a couple of months ago. I notice that in the old harness there is an unused red wire. I'll try and connect with a tester to see what happensOriginally posted by Mike Stevens View PostWithout the IGN warning light ON, the alternator won't get going. It needs the current through the bulb into the alternator to start it all off.
Plain brown wires are battery live and the thin one is probably a remote sense wire so the alternator can get the voltage correct. Where is it connected at the 'other' end?
Just to re-empasise, if the IGN lamp doesn't come on before you crank the engine, then it is unlikely that the alternator will work!
Cheers,
Mike.
Comment
-
ham204stag
I bought the extended harness because the alternator is now re-located off side. Its a Mk 2 car although since I got it I noticed that I had a Mk1 fan and coupling! As its early 1973 it may be a sort of hybridOriginally posted by KOY 23 View PostLet's go back to beginning, does the Wards loom plug into the lead which came out of your original alternator or does it connect to the junction box in main feed cable under washer bottle. I assume you have a Mark 2 car.
Comment
-
I should be the same as my 80 amp alternator, which only has 3 connections 2 large brown wires that connect to the + battery cable. I have made up my own loom so mine is connected to the starter terminal. 1 brown/yellow ign warning light I replaced this wire all the way back to the cluster as the old insulation was breaking up. The thin brown wire which was the old exciter wire is disused the alternator is now excited by the ign warning light that is why it needs to be working. Test the as in Ian's post.
Comment
Comment