Introduction

[Triumphant Tim]

Just a quick post to introduce myself. I've just acquired a Brooklands Green '77 Stag, which has a SOC 21st anniversary sticker on the windscreen. I was wondering if anyone knew any history of VRC430S. I've been reading the forum plenty over the past two days and am having the car checked over in Faversham early next week.

The minute hand has fallen of the clock (which works) so my first job is to remove the dash to get it it, then see what I can do about refitting the minute hand. Any hints to make my life easy? After that, I'll look at why the heater doesn't blow hot air. I've read a couple of posts about the cable, regulator, etc. so hopefully this will be a simple job. Fingers crossed.

[DJT]

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Tim,

Welcome to the wonderful world of Stag ownership. Faversham Classics are well versed in the Stag and its care, so they will point out any issues.

The heater not blowing hot air is probably down to a stuck heater valve. This is a brass unit attached to the heater matrix down in the driver's footwell. It should turn when you move the slider from Cold to Hot. More often than not these stick through lack of use, then when you move the slider the control wire pulls out of its retaining clip. You will need to clamp the feed and return pipes in the engine bay, then get the heater valve out. This is a tricky job and many owners have made up tools to do it. As the car is going into Faversham next week, I would ask them to look at it for you.They will probably be able to do it quickly as they have no doubt done it hundreds of times in the past.

Dave

[Triumphant Tim]

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OK, the heater valve isn't seized but it won't move when using the lever. I have moved it using a screwdriver to lever on the actual arm but it appears quite stiff. I have moved it to the approximate halfway position and will see if I get any heat out of it now.

The clock came out quite easily. It says Kienzle on the back and there is a small nut there which is spot-sealed. Is this the way into the unit or do I need to prise the chrome bezel off the front instead? The second hand is actually split, by the looks. Hopefully I can dab a spot of superglue on it to hold it together and then replace it onto the shaft, but I need to get at it first!

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi Dave!

On the subject...output from my heater is distinctly poor to say the least.... even when normal engine temp reached!

I bow as ever to your wisdom!!! whats the peckin order of checking the system and rectification?...

I have also read it's not uncommon to find iffy temp senders in STAGS!...thinking bout changing mine as a matter of safety ...I can only say inside of 2-miles thereabouts that I do not need choke etc.. but temp guage seems well slow to rise to normal position....having said that I do not knowif this is typical!!!

mine is a 74mk 2 manual orriginal v8!

:dude:CHEERS! PHIL

[DJT]

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Phil,

Stag heaters usually chuck out plenty of heat. If yours is cool, then either the inlet valve is stuck closed, or the matrix is blocked. You could try disconnecting the two heater hoses on the engine side of the firewalland flushing the heater out. I would connect a hose pipe to one of the pipes and see if water comes out the other in a good flow. If it doesn't, then reverse the flow. Then try and operate the heater valve to see if it is closed or open.

I haven't heard of anyheater matrix being totally blocked, so a good flush and an open valve should cure any cold heater problems, assuming that the flap that allows hot air into the car is operating as it should.

Just re-reading your post, you say the indicated temperature takes a long time to rise. Have you checked out your thermostat? You should have the type that has a foot on it to close off the by-pass in your Mk2 manifold.

http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.ph...f6a819086443d6

It will be either a 88 or 82 degree. The 88* will keep the car running at around mid-way on the gauge, but some people prefer to run an 82* with the view it gives a little more reserve in the cooling system.

Dave

[Triumphant Tim]

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OK, clock is now working thanks to superglue. I went over to Faversham yesterday and Trevor spent about two hours telling me about my car and what it needed. Of more importance to me was what it didn't need and in that respect my mind was put at rest.

We took the hard top off and put the soft top up and I was amazed. I'd bought the car without seeing the soft top at all and it is the original and looks to be in immaculate condition.

After having moved the heater valve I now get more hot air than I know what to do with but the valve is still stiff so I'm hoping that further levering will free it up so that it will work on the cable. If not, it's a dismantling job.

A big thanks to Trevor at Faversham Classics for his time which he wouldn't take any money for! Needless to say, he will be getting my business.

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi Dave! thanks so much for the info!- will start investigations asap!

:dude:Cheers! PHIL

[Guest]

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The best way I found to remove the heater valve was to find a long thin bolt to fit in the end of the valve,wind up tight, then get a pair of GOOD QUALITY thin nose molegrips grab the bolt turning clockwise and pulling out at the same time. Remember to remove front footwell carpet first and put plenty of rags down to soak the little bit of coolant that comes out. Remember to top up lost coolant.