Electric water temperature sensor

[Ian928]

We have swapped the instruments on our Stag to Magnolia dials. That included a swap to electric Water temperature. I do not have the sensor for the water temperature instrument, can someone advise at what type it is? It should be the type with only one wire, but are all those equal?

Also, will a "standard" sensor fit in the space of the capillary sensor? I see Rimmer Brothers sell a modified water jacket for the RH head, do I need this: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-218436-MOD

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[mole42]

Interesting that you have a capilliary water sensor - most of the UK Stags had an electric sensor. I imagine that an off-the-shelf sensor will do the trick and fit perfectly.

[StagJonno]

Peter atb LD Part has this one: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...87f1761408c615 . All carefully tested for the application.

As Mole says, the original fitment was an electrical sensor, and I'd expect the original connector to be close by. Typically, to fit a capilliary-type sensor to the original position, an extension adaptor is needed to accommodate the extra length, so remove this as well and I'd expect the new electric sensor to be direct fit You shouldn't need anything else.

Jonno

[Ian928]

Thank you both! Yes there seems to be a adaptor screwed into the head with the capillary sensor in that. Maybe I can have a go at it tomorrow.

[richardthestag]

The adapter is needed to stop the capillary bulb bottoming out and breaking, my adapter has a different thread to the sender. I had a mechanical gauge and went back to standard for some reason that I cannot recall.

I found that Peter / LDPart sender did NOT fit my modified transfer housing but did fit the unmodified unit I had in the shed. I could NOT be bothered to wrestle with the 5 bolts to swap it over. The issue was that the width of the sender below the thread was too fat to fit the modified transfer housing.

A standard sender did fit the modified transfer housing but rather spoiled my trip to Le Mans this year!

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I subsequently found that mid point on the gauge was 75dc, a needle width off the red was 86dc and that ^^^ was 95dc. it did eventually boil over after sitting in traffic for an hour at idle or there abouts with ambient temperature well over 30dc

I now have a dual capillary gauge for water temp and oil pressure so at a single glance I can satisfy my stag paranoia

All that said I think that the sender and the gauge should be matched, anyone else got a view on this?

[StagJonno]

The adapter is needed to stop the capillary bulb bottoming out and breaking, my adapter has a different thread to the sender. I had a mechanical gauge and went back to standard for some reason that I cannot recall.

I found that Peter / LDPart sender did NOT fit my modified transfer housing but did fit the unmodified unit I had in the shed. I could NOT be bothered to wrestle with the 5 bolts to swap it over. The issue was that the width of the sender below the thread was too fat to fit the modified transfer housing.

A standard sender did fit the modified transfer housing but rather spoiled my trip to Le Mans this year!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35753[/ATTACH]

I subsequently found that mid point on the gauge was 75dc, a needle width off the red was 86dc and that ^^^ was 95dc. it did eventually boil over after sitting in traffic for an hour at idle or there abouts with ambient temperature well over 30dc

I now have a dual capillary gauge for water temp and oil pressure so at a single glance I can satisfy my stag paranoia

All that said I think that the sender and the gauge should be matched, anyone else got a view on this?

Ian, it all depends on how your PO fitted the capiliary sensor and whether he changed the transfer housing, or used an adaptor which managed the thread changes, so I think you need to suck it and see.

Which ever electric sender you get, it would be worth confirming how it matches with your guage using a hot water bath. I think the guage is connected to the instrument voltage regulator, so easiest to do in the car. Note, you'll need to make a negative (earth) connection to the body of the sensor.

Jonno

[Ian928]

Ian, it all depends on how your PO fitted the capiliary sensor and whether he changed the transfer housing, or used an adaptor which managed the thread changes, so I think you need to suck it and see.

Which ever electric sender you get, it would be worth confirming how it matches with your guage using a hot water bath. I think the guage is connected to the instrument voltage regulator, so easiest to do in the car. Note, you'll need to make a negative (earth) connection to the body of the sensor.

Jonno

That is certainly a good idea! Tonight I realised I have two old Triumph Herald engines in storage, I guess the temperature sensor will fit from the Herald?

In regards to the capillary sensor, was it fitted by the PO or was it a strange USA-spec thing?

[Pete]

Ian, are they dials from Holdens?

[Ian928]

Ian, are they dials from Holdens?

Yes they are!

[richardthestag]

In regards to the capillary sensor, was it fitted by the PO or was it a strange USA-spec thing?

aftermarket jobby by a previous owner

[Ian928]

This clearly is not correct! I did test two sensors from a couple of Triumph Herald engines i have and both show the same. With hot water (from a thermos) they show what is in the picture (about 125°C?). I did test the voltage to the sensor, it is close to 10V. I have looked in the box the instrument came in but can not find much information there.

I see that Holden has sensors that is specified for the Smiths classic range, but what type of threads do I have? http://www.holden.co.uk/displayprodu...mp%2E+Fittings


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[Pete]

Once I get my car back from the garage I'll be able to comment but from memory of my last Stag the Holdens gauge seemed to work fine with the original sender.

[Ian928]

Hmm I checked in the reimmers catalogue and they liste the same sender for Stag and Spitfire. Could it be that the gauge is calibrated wrong? After all I got the same result with two different senders.

[wilf]

Is the gauge fed from the voltage stabiliser or direct from battery +ve? The 10V at the sender would suggest the former but it is worth checking, also worth checking what feed the gauge manufacturer specifies.

[Ian928]

Is the gauge fed from the voltage stabiliser or direct from battery +ve? The 10V at the sender would suggest the former but it is worth checking, also worth checking what feed the gauge manufacturer specifies.

Thank you for the tip, I will check that! I am not sure if the gauge could supply 10V to the sender even though it have 12V supply itself? The info I got with the gauges specifies 10V so that could be it.