Water pump change

[GrahamF]

Apologies if this has been a well repeated topic. My '75 original engined Mk2 has had a couple of times in the summer when it got hot, but it never overheated. The original header tank never changed it's level, but I could always top up the radiator with plenty of coolant after a run. From traces on the garage floor it seemed I had a slow radiator leak. So at the recent NEC show I bought a reconditioned updated Rimmers radiator which will be fitted in a few weeks, my question is, if prevention is better than cure, would you recommend changing the water pump at the same time? I did have a Stagweber header tank fitted after the summer. I generally cover up to 100 mile round trips in the car, but I would love to take it on a few longer tours, including overseas trips, so as I am no skilled mechanic, I want to make it a bullet proof as I can.

[edd]

Did you say bullet proof and water pump in the same sentence I personally went for the belt driven water pump no longer made by Stagdad. I must say if I couldn't of got hold of this I would have copied the idea its that good.

[Jeff]

'Stag' bulletproof, let alone water pump?

[GrahamF]

Bulletproof may be an optimistic description.
Perhaps I should stay with "if it's not broken don't fix it".

[tractorjames]

I suppose the water pump is something with many differing views.

When I rebuilt my engine I sent my pump to paddocks for overhaul just so I knew it was good. Its been fine since. I can confirm that my temperature sits absolutely still be it cruising at 120 or stuck in a jam on Douglas prom for 30 minutes on just about the hottest day recorded in the entire universe. The only mod to the cooling system is a supergill rad. No extra fans, HT etc. (well it does have an electric fan but it isn't wired up)

Just my experience, take what you wish from it.

James

[milothedog]

I suppose the water pump is something with many differing views.

When I rebuilt my engine I sent my pump to paddocks for overhaul just so I knew it was good. Its been fine since. I can confirm that my temperature sits absolutely still be it

cruising at 120

or stuck in a jam on Douglas prom for 30 minutes on just about the hottest day recorded in the entire universe. The only mod to the cooling system is a supergill rad. No extra fans, HT etc. (well it does have an electric fan but it isn't wired up)

Just my experience, take what you wish from it.

James

I assume you mean the time of day

[Motorsport Micky]

"cruising at 120"

Cough

Micky

[Staggard]

My 12 vane worked ok as well (providing it stayed immersed) apart from being sited totally in the wrong place, and like everything else all the time its working its fine. For me it was the though of the devastation it could cause if it didn't.

[Staggard]

"cruising at 120"

Cough

Micky

"just about the hottest day recorded in the entire universe" Double cough

[Bob Heritage]

Foggy-just PM'd you

[tractorjames]

Thought that would get a laugh, you understand what I mean though. As for the temperature it certainly felt it in the middle of the town, hard top on, no air conditioning, it comes in handy though to sweat out a bit of weight in preparation for the full week of pub meals Just came back from Kendal with a mate following in his modern car and lets just say I think he was rather supprised at the pace of forward motion achievable from a 40 year old motor!

[jbuckl]

seems as if there are some options:-

1 if the vee area has no coolant showing, the pump probably isnt leaking and could be left alone.

2 fit a standard rebuilt pump. (vane number -6 or 12 isnt crucial, but must have a matching cover)

3 fit a ceramic seal type rebuilt pump.

4 replace with electric pump. parts are ~£500 all in

5 replace with external mechanical pump. no longer available afaiaa

just my 2p

rebuilding a stag pump is a speciallist skill by todays standards, there are pitfalls even for experienced people, as the original seals are no longer available. rebuild kit parts are £20 odd.

biggest risk is to end up with a rebuilt pump where the seal spring coils are coil-bound, affecting (increasing) the skew gear loadings.

Often the impellor resists removal.

The impellor often needs a light skim to the seal diameter if pitted / scored or replacing with a ceramic disc (ld part used to supply & or fit)

A / the? well known founder member offers a rebuild service via ebay.

I think an exchange pump from the lincoln area is £176 iirc.

budget for thread repairs (5/16" u.n.c. helicoil or similar type) to the cylinder heads where the manifold bolts go (12 off altogether) new bolts isnt a bad idea, preferably stainless, with new washers (often listed on ebay)

buy 2 sets of quality inlet manifold gaskets, some tiger seal / pu sealer & a pedestal o-ring. when only buying one set of gaskets, it guarantees a leak that will need another set (im not superstitious, really)