Oil Filter change

[Mrs hoskins]

I want to change from the original fit type oil filter where you fit a new canister , to a twist and dispose cartridge type, Is there a kit to make this happen , or does the new cartridge just screw straight on ?

[mole42]

Hi David, this is the one I got:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RB7016

Works well, fits easily.

Richard

[wilf]

Also available from other Stag parts suppliers.

Be sure to buy spare O rings when you get yours, they need changing occasionally (annually on mine!)

[Mrs hoskins]

Thanks chaps, I'm just gonna revisit the 70s , and remind myself how hard it was changing the canister type ( admittedly on a mini) ......before I decide whether I splash out on the conversion. On my mileage , I'm only gonna be doing this about every two years , just long enough to forget the pain ��

Good luck with the head gasket Richard, is the tow bar on yet ??

[tractorjames]

I heard as rumour that o ring leakage is often due to the bolt in the middle of the adaptor unscrewing from the block when the filter is changed. The first time I changed the filter the housing was indeed wanting to unscrew. To prevent this I put a smear of flange sealant on each side of the o ring (hylomar non setting type stuff) and loctited the central retaining bolt. I also tightened it a bit tighter than it said on the instructions and haven't had a problem since.

These stag filters seem mega tight after they've been of for a few months compared to other spin on filters, so when I hand tighten them now I only give it the slightest nip.

I wasn't convinced after the first change but now its sorted I definitely prefer it to the original set up. Quick, clean and easy enough to pre fill the filter without getting it down your sleeve when you refit it.

James

[Rod1883]

Thanks chaps, I'm just gonna revisit the 70s , and remind myself how hard it was changing the canister type ( admittedly on a mini) ......before I decide whether I splash out on the conversion. On my mileage , I'm only gonna be doing this about every two years , just long enough to forget the pain ��

Good luck with the head gasket Richard, is the tow bar on yet ??

I would recommend that you change the oil at least annually, whatever the mileage you are doing, otherwise the contaminants that build up in the oil will cause corrosion.
I've still got the standard set up - it's a bit of a pain but no major problem to do once or twice a year.

[tractorjames]

I would recommend that you change the oil at least annually, whatever the mileage you are doing, otherwise the contaminants that build up in the oil will cause corrosion.
I've still got the standard set up - it's a bit of a pain but no major problem to do once or twice a year.

Agreed.

Also I find that a good wide pair of water pump pliers are actually handier than a filter strap when it comes to spin on filters!!!

James

[DJT]

I've used one of these for many years. It hasn't been defeated yet:

image.jpg

[Staggard]

I heard as rumour that o ring leakage is often due to the bolt in the middle of the adaptor unscrewing from the block when the filter is changed. The first time I changed the filter the housing was indeed wanting to unscrew. To prevent this I put a smear of flange sealant on each side of the o ring (hylomar non setting type stuff) and loctited the central retaining bolt. I also tightened it a bit tighter than it said on the instructions and haven't had a problem since.

These stag filters seem mega tight after they've been of for a few months compared to other spin on filters, so when I hand tighten them now I only give it the slightest nip.

I wasn't convinced after the first change but now its sorted I definitely prefer it to the original set up. Quick, clean and easy enough to pre fill the filter without getting it down your sleeve when you refit it.

James

As I recall when fitting mine. it comes in two parts the inner section is held to the block with the centre bolt the outer section slides over the centre section, its this section that seals against the original square section O ring in the block then the filter canister screws on against the outer section. So its only the action of tightening up the filter canister against the outer section that applies pressure to the filter O ring in the block. So when you unscrew the filter to change it you realise the pressure on the O ring and possibly unseat it and does not always reseal when you screw up the new filter. I bedded the O ring in the block in Permatex ultra black which seems to have sealed it for the last couple of filter changes but by design I don't see it lasting for many more before it leaks.

[tractorjames]

Just remembered i wonder if my problem was diferent as it is also an oil cooler take off?

It must have been that part of the adapter that was giving me grief.

James

[5chaiaday]

Not sure if I'm being dumb but what is the advantage of swapping to spin on filters? Original filters seem to have good availability and changing is not a taxing job at all. Just seems you're introducing more leak opportunities for little gain.

But maybe I'm missing something?

Ed.

[jleyton]

Not sure if I'm being dumb but what is the advantage of swapping to spin on filters? Original filters seem to have good availability and changing is not a taxing job at all. Just seems you're introducing more leak opportunities for little gain.

But maybe I'm missing something?

Ed.

Totally agree and I've never got particularly mucky changing the standard one.

Cheers

Julian

[mole42]

I changed mine for a spin-on type simply because that's what I used to do with my PIs - but on the straight six block the standard filter was set up at an angle and would drain itself into the sump between runs meaning a measurable period of no oil pressure before the filter filled again. AFAICS this doesn't happen with the Stag block.

Richard

[5chaiaday]

Aha, Thanks. Every time I've changed the filter it has had a nice well of oil in it so I think as you say this isn't much of an issue for the Stag. I'll stick with the original.

Ed.

[Staggard]

I don't know where the bypass valve is in the original filter bowl but I don't recall anything in the filter head that would allow the oil directly back into the engine so I assume it passes over the outside of the element to return to the engine. And as has been said you can fit a larger range of filters and IMO with better filtering properties. For me its one of those mods that takes advantage of progress. Moving on from gauze filters to replaceable elements to throw away filters as used in moderns.