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    Clutch Info

    Hi All,

    Happy new year.
    Having looked into the price of having my gearbox removed and refitted I have decided to do it myself. The box is currently away been refurbished with the O/D. My question is about the release bearing and pressure plate. I have attached some images that show the release bearing has been cutting into the fingers on the plate. I replaced the bearing about four years ago with a H/D one but the bearing has worn out!! I have purchased a replacement and as you may be able to see in the pictures the bearing was slightly skew on the carrier, by a fraction, would this cause the wear on the fingers? The clutch plate and cover plate are ok but I am changing them as a matter of course this time. This might seem a daft question but, does the release bearing normally run all the time on the cover plate or only when the clutch is used? The other question is has any one used the new release bearing set up from SC parts,



    it looks good but is quite expensive. I am considering this unit as I don't want to remove the box again.
    I have taken the flywheel to be skimmed as suggested in other posts and I am also replacing the spigot bearing again, but this time I am soaking it in oil.

    Any info would be useful. Thanks.

    Tony
    DSC04517.JPGDSC04519.JPGPlate fingers.jpgBearing SC face.jpgBearing SC top.jpg

    #2
    Tony
    Don't know anything about the new SC bearing but your old bearing looks like a KOYO one to me see this.http://socforum.com/forum/showthread...highlight=koyo

    Les.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks Les, I have just read the thread and it makes sense and confirms what I thought!!! It is the same bearing. That would be why the bearing is shot and the cover plate fingers.
      Thanks again for the heads up I may go with the Borg and beck bearing supplied or the SC parts one.
      Tony

      Comment


        #4
        Surely that SC bearings carrier is too short

        Comment


          #5
          I fitted the uprated clutch kit from Paddocks - well pleased with it and thoroughly recommended.

          Cheers

          Julian

          Comment


            #6
            HI
            I second that

            Tim

            Comment


              #7
              Tony I have a whole clutch assembly in great condition,even down to the bits and bobs for the arm mechanism ect I fitted all new ones when my slave went ,and I had my box rebuilt ,there was really no need to change them ,but i did as the car was new to me ,as you do ,

              your welcome for a small donation to guide dogs

              cheers Alex

              Comment


                #8
                Hi Steve, I thought the same about the carrier been short, that is why I wonderd if anyone had fitted one, are you selling your hydraulic release bearing kit yet!!

                Thanks for the info Julian / Tim I will have a look a the paddocks kit, but it was there uprated bearing I fitted before, I am Not sure what they supply in the kit but will look into it.

                Alex thanks for the offer but I already have a full clutch kit it is really just the bearing set up I want to get right. I will look at the paddocks parts and possibly contact SC tomorrow.

                Thanks for the replys Tony

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Tonyw View Post
                  Thanks for the info Julian / Tim I will have a look a the paddocks kit, but it was there uprated bearing I fitted before, I am Not sure what they supply in the kit but will look into it. .

                  Thanks for the replys Tony
                  Hi Tony,

                  I bought their complete uprated kit and both the bearing and clutch cover were noticeably different to the standard ones. I suspect you have to fit both together - could that be the cause of your problem


                  Cheers

                  Julian

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi Julian,

                    I have just had a look and the modified bearing is different to the H/D one, so I don't think this is the problem. I think it is as Les said in the post he directed me to. The H/D bearing is a thicker / deeper body and I think unless you fit a spring return and stop, the bearing runs on the clutch housing all the time! I will have to see which route to take as I already have the main parts so don't really want to spend another £250 or so on the paddocks updated unit!
                    Thanks for the info.
                    Tony

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Tony if you visit the TR register forum there is a wealth of information about the different clutch kits for Triumph. There are slight differences between TRs and Stags but the following principles are worth remembering.

                      1) the mechanism for release is highly marginal involving movement at the business end of less than a centimetre.
                      2) the relative thicknesses of clutch cover, drive plate and release bearing carrier and bearing are absolutely critical. Deviating by more than about 1.5mm will either lead to insufficient disengagement and trouble shifting or constant pressure on the clutch fingers as you have discovered.
                      3) it is therefore a sensible precaution to buy a complete kit from one source, so that if it goes wrong you can get a refund/exchange.
                      4) there was a huge batch of duff release bearings by AP around 20 years ago and some them might be about still. So try and get provenance for the one you buy. Some of this stuff is on the shelves at suppliers for decades. Do NOT buy from autojumbles.
                      5) it is absolutely critical that the box and engine line up perfectly square. Follow any instructions in the books to achieve this. If you don't, you will only have to start again when the clutch sticks. There are no short cuts. Patience in unlimited quantities is (sometimes!) rewarded.
                      6) do NOT force the bearing onto the carrier. Use of vices, mole grips, heavy weights or hammers are to be strongly deprecated. Put the carrier in the freezer overnight and the bearing in the oven at about 45-50 degrees for about 20 minutes. It should just drop nicely into place on the carrier.

                      How do I know all this? I made all the above mistakes as a TR owner over a short period about 10 years ago and eventually could get a gearbox in and out in less than a day with my eyes shut. But it is not a fun job, involving strained backs & shoulders and crushed fingers and more bad language than I thought I knew, so you don't want to do it more than once!
                      Last edited by TR5convalescent; 14 January 2016, 10:34.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Tony your welcome to look at my spare bearing to compare

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks Alex, but based on the info from different people and the reply by TR5convalescent (thank you) I think I am going to go with the paddocks upgraded kit. Julian said it has been fine since having his fitted so I think this is the way to go as I don't want to take the box out again!!!
                          Thanks again for the offer though Tony

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So why was the KOYO bearing ever allowed to be sold as a 'heavy duty replacement'......by specialist?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Nib I agree, as this is what I fitted before but didn't know and wasn't told of the pit falls!! I think they should come with some info explaining that they need modifications to the system!!!

                              Comment

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