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    Fitting Window Channel Seals

    Just had a look at the door window frames and held up the new seals against them. Wow! They're a pretty tight fit. Any tricks or tips to fit them? Insert at one end and push them along the channel? Lever them in inch by inch? I presume that soapy liquid is going to feature somewhere in the process?

    Any help appreciated!

    Drew
    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

    #2
    Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
    Just had a look at the door window frames and held up the new seals against them. Wow! They're a pretty tight fit. Any tricks or tips to fit them? Insert at one end and push them along the channel? Lever them in inch by inch? I presume that soapy liquid is going to feature somewhere in the process?

    Any help appreciated!


    Drew
    Drew

    i didn't have any trouble fitting them in my brothers car,i started at one end and just pushed them in place,the hardest part was getting the old one out,it keep breaking into bits


    Comment


      #3
      I thought it was going well doing them like that until I realised that therte is a little lip which seems to belong inside the rail and it stayed stubbornly on the outside.
      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
        I thought it was going well doing them like that until I realised that therte is a little lip which seems to belong inside the rail and it stayed stubbornly on the outside.
        I realised about that lip after fitting one and thinking that was easy. I then looked again and used the reverse side of a snap on hook I have. Fiddly but it gets easier as you go. Drew when you fit the door seals I cut mine long then folded the hollow section under the window capping and the other side under the hardtop connection plate. I hate seeing that seal chopped off with a hole in.

        Comment


          #5
          What's a snap on hook Edd?

          Good tip with the door seal! Incidentally, did you find that you had to release the T-Bar slightly to get the inner B Post trim to fit under the Pillar capping?
          The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
            did you find that you had to release the T-Bar slightly to get the inner B Post trim to fit under the Pillar capping?
            I've usually, although not always, found this Drew.

            Cheers

            Julian

            Comment


              #7
              Drew. The channel rubbers are easy to fit incorrectly, as the small felted lip mustn't be fitted right into the window channel, or the glass will rattle against the metal frame. I do have a picture somewhere of how it should fit. Would that help, or have you sorted it?
              Mike.

              Comment


                #8
                Hi, I fitted the new channels last year and followed the instructions in the SOC Magazine for November 2014, page 28.


                IMG_2143.jpgIMG_2144.jpg

                Hope this helps


                Nigel

                Comment


                  #9
                  All interesting stuff! Thanks!

                  I've just been torturing my fingers on the first section. The preliminary conclusions at the moment are ....

                  a) there was no way I could push it in along the length of the channel even with the little lips outside. I ended up simply placing it over the channel and then pushing it in inch by inch

                  b) regarding the little lips, my channel doesn't seem to match to the pictures shown. The apparently original seal doesn't have any rubber bits which can be seen outside of the channel, so I decided to see how it would work if I popped them into the flange as per photo.

                  c) regarding the tightness of the window, I'm not sure of the glass thickness, but the rubber sealing flaps seem to be flexible enough not to grip the window too tight, and, even with a 10mm diameter felt tip pen, they seem to be able to accomodate it and still keep it away from the metal frame (pic)

                  At the moment, I do have quite a good feeling (and numb fingers) but would welcome comments on my approach before I do the rest of the seals!!

                  Cheers

                  Drew

                  the way I fitted mine now:
                  DSC02145 (Custom).JPG




































                  The (probably) original seal:
                  DSC02146 (Custom).JPG




































                  A 10mm diameter object simulating a thick glass pane:
                  DSC02149 (Custom).JPG
                  The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jleyton View Post
                    I've usually, although not always, found this Drew.

                    Cheers

                    Julian
                    Thanks Julian! So I'm not going mad! Seems to be nuts to have to undo a structural part to fit the trim but probably par for the course!
                    The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thought it's time for a little update after realising that I more or less ignored everyone's advice! (I did go to school on Malta however, so please be gentle with me!)

                      The seals are now fitted on one side and they really did fit well with the lip neatly tucked under the flange. I tried them with the lip standing proud, but that actually forced the channel to close up tighter. A few trial runs with some plastic sheet of window glass thickness indicated it would all be ok......... but ........

                      ....... with all seals in and the full window glass inserted the resistance is considerable. It doesn't bind at all and the drop glass can be slid in and out with one hand but I'm not so sure that the window motors will cut the mustard. They do have a worm gear drive I guess which is usually quite powerful. I've smeared some silicone lubricant on the edge of the drop glass and it now moves so that I can pull it up or down with thumb and forefinger. I've just used the last drop of grease but I think I'll try the same idea with some spray silicone grease when the shops open tomorrow.

                      The experience with all aftermarket rubber stuff for the Stag indicates that the seals might lose their new springiness pdq so I'm hoping that the window winders will do their job under duress (yes; spelt with two 's' and not x although there's a lot of pushing and pulling with rubber going on at the moment) until the seal gives in and goes limp.

                      Now.... tonights quiz question concerns fitting new quarterlight seals. I'm going along the following route at the moment: Place the rubber into the metal channel, lubricate it with some soapy water, push the quarterlight glass into the rubber lined channel, trim off excess rubber.

                      Anyone with any tips for doing this task??

                      Cheers

                      Drew
                      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Drew,
                        There is a full write up on fitting new 1/4-light rubbers by Mike Webb in the latest SOC magazine, Pages 46 & 47. If you haven't received this yet, I could scan it for you.



                        Rubbers.pdf
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by DJT; 11 February 2016, 21:26.
                        Dave
                        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Drew, Mike Allen posted the correct way of fitting the window channels not long ago. Julian will find you the link in a minute.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Fitting instructions
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Sorry Julian cannot post on his blasted tablet.

                              Comment

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