Exhaust manifolds!

[mole42]

I fit my cast-iron exhaust manifolds as per ROM without gaskets. I torqued the bolts correctly.

There are leaks between the manifolds and the heads about which I am mightily pissed off. I have no idea how to remove and refit the manifold bolts now that the heads are on and I think I'm going to have to take the manifolds off to fit gaskets (which I bought and then read that I don't need them).

Can anyone offer any advice?

Richard

[Lingen]

Richard. Did you use exhaust paste when fitting them? Gaskets really aren't needed. I have never used them in years of Stag repairs, but they certainly will never seal properly just metal to metal.
It is just possible to remove the manifolds in situ but you will need patience and flexible fingers. You will not need to take the heads off again.
Mike.

[Seaking]

Richard you can remove manifolds with Heads on I have just removed mine and fitted tubular steel manifolds.

Cheers Glenn

[mick the stagger]

Mike Oldfield does tubular bells

[Staggard]

I have always fitted gaskets and never had a leak, so if you have to use exhaust paste to fit them without gaskets that can spread into the exhaust track and partially block it why not fit gaskets

[marshman]

I have always fitted gaskets and never had a leak, so if you have to use exhaust paste to fit them without gaskets that can spread into the exhaust track and partially block it why not fit gaskets

+1

I agree the original fitment didn't use gaskets but I couldn't see any reason not to when I did mine. The manifolds and heads are 40+ years old and the do warp and move so not worth taking the risk in my opinion. And as Graham says there's always the small risk of the paste squeezing into port and causing a partial obstruction.

As others have said it is perfectly possible to remove the manifolds from the heads in situ. Its fiddly and you do need a bit a patience but it is doable.

I assume you did ensure there were no burrs on or anything of the sort on the mating faces before refitting?

Roger

[mole42]

I assume you did ensure there were no burrs on or anything of the sort on the mating faces before refitting?

Oh yes, I checked the faces of the mating parts.

Is there any trick spanner to use? I have 1/2" and 3/8" sockets and some box spanners as well as a variety of ring spanners but I have to say that the steering shaft gets in the way of the RH manifold.

Richard

[DJT]

Richard,

I have a set of short (stubby) ratchet spanners I picked up at a auto jumble a few years ago. They are metric, and were cheap, so not suitable for heavy use, but they are ideal for this sort of restricted access use. Use the correct spanner or socket to loosen the bolt or nut, then use the stubby ratchet to undo it the rest of the way. Likewise when fitting. Use the stubby ratchet spanner to wind the bolt in, then tighten with a better spanner or socket.

[mole42]

Hi Dave,
Would a 17mm do it? I can buy one of those for £6 - it'd be worth it!!

Richard

[Staggard]

The manifold bolts are 9/16 -14mm

[DJT]

Hi Dave,
Would a 17mm do it? I can buy one of those for £6 - it'd be worth it!!

Richard

I've just gone out to check. The exhaust manifold bolts are 3/8" UNC which is 9/16" AF or 14mm.

I think I only paid about a tenner for a set of 7 . There are plenty of sets online for less than £20. As long as you don't start hitting them with a hammer they should last for years and it is surprising how often they make life easier once you have them.

[mole42]

Thanks Dave! Beyond the call of duty to go outside on a dark night.... I don't often hit spanners - although i did once weld a socket to a four-foot bar when trying to get the front hubs off a Peugeot 405.
Thanks Staggard - all the way from Spain!
Richard