Driveshafts and hubs

[Tonyw]

I am thinking about changing my drive shafts as replacing the uj's has not Stopped the clonk, which I think is coming from the splines been worn. Having read what Micky Motorsport has said about the hubs as well I think it would be wise to look at these also. There are many different offerings but the two I am currently looking at are the CV jointed ones with new hubs or the Monarch ones with new shafts and hubs as they are cheaper. I know the CV ones will be the Best Buy any thoughts on the others or any other options.

Thanks Tony

[jbuckl]

Currently, I believe this is the cheapest way to get new splines:-

http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CW2027&cat=80

There were some similar offerings at a slightly better price a few months ago maybe via soc spares?

FWIW i didnt ever hear clonking noises from stag worn splines though.....but differentials do clonk when the thrusts are worn though.

If you need the tapers splitting i have a tool to do that without damage to the drive flange / shaft.

IMHO Best not to use a big press, as the flange is easily distorted & the shaft is easily over stressed during separation.

[Jim and tom]

Hi Tony
I've just replaced mine with the C.V ones with new hubs from SC part,
they are pricey but what a difference no clonking from the back end of gear selection and on change down.
pulls away better and no twitch.
I think they are worth the money, 6months in and 2000 miles driving with a smile.
cheers Jim

[Seaking]

Hi Tony just replaced mine with cv joints from Rob sports very pleased with them I figured new hubs and shafts as the old hubs are around 40 years old.
Now have easy fit bearings and nice new hubs.

Cheers Glenn

[V Mad]

Hi Tony just replaced mine with cv joints from Rob sports very pleased with them I figured new hubs and shafts as the old hubs are around 40 years old.
Now have easy fit bearings and nice new hubs.

Cheers Glenn

I would imagine they have supplied you the same ones as the SC drive shafts.

[Tonyw]

Hi all,
Thanks for all the info. I think if I go this route I will go CV jointed. The SC parts shafts are not the same as Rob sport from what I have been told. The SC ones are made in Germany the Rob sport ones are made in Warwick, I think, by classic driving developments. These are the ones I would go for if I do go that route. With regard to the splines Julian, I can physically move the shafts on the splines in a twisting movement which do clonk, with the car raised, so I think they must be quite warn.

Tony

[Seaking]

Hi all,
Thanks for all the info. I think if I go this route I will go CV jointed. The SC parts shafts are not the same as Rob sport from what I have been told. The SC ones are made in Germany the Rob sport ones are made in Warwick, I think, by classic driving developments. These are the ones I would go for if I do go that route. With regard to the splines Julian, I can physically move the shafts on the splines in a twisting movement which do clonk, with the car raised, so I think they must be quite warn.

Tony

Thats Correct Tony

when end it came down to it Rob sport gave me a good deal price inc postage.

Cheers Glenn

[Tonyw]

That's worth remembering Glenn, although I am not far from the factory in Warwick, so I could collect.

[Lingen]

Tony. I fitted the GKN / Monarch type in 2005, which are now on offer from Chris Witor, before the CVJ type were available. They have been a great success, having totally eradicated all clonks, twitches, etc. As far as I am concerned, I can see no point in paying a hell of a lot more for the other type, unless you need the new hubs as well.
Mike.

[jbuckl]

2nd'd or is it 1st'd?

Tony. I fitted the GKN / Monarch type in 2005, which are now on offer from Chris Witor, before the CVJ type were available. They have been a great success, having totally eradicated all clonks, twitches, etc. As far as I am concerned, I can see no point in paying a hell of a lot more for the other type, unless you need the new hubs as well.
Mike.

Currently, I believe this is the cheapest way to get new splines:-

http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail...=CW2027&cat=80

There were some similar offerings at a slightly better price a few months ago maybe via soc spares?

FWIW i didnt ever hear clonking noises from stag worn splines though.....but differentials do clonk when the thrusts are worn though.

If you need the tapers splitting i have a tool to do that without damage to the drive flange / shaft.

IMHO Best not to use a big press, as the flange is easily distorted & the shaft is easily over stressed during separation.

[mole42]

If you need the tapers splitting i have a tool to do that without damage to the drive flange / shaft.

IMHO Best not to use a big press, as the flange is easily distorted & the shaft is easily over stressed during separation.

Agreed! I had to fit the flanges to the output shafts, centre them in the lathe and true them up after the animals had used a huge press and loads of heat to get the bearings off.

Richard

[Tonyw]

I have been looking into the CV jointed shafts with new hubs for the rear of my car and I think this is the way I am going to go.

My question is has anyone fitted the new uprated front hubs that are available and if so was there any improvement. I have been thinking about the failure on the rear hubs that was mentioned and think surely the front hubs must be as bad as they are also possibly 40 years old.

Tony

Also if anyone has bought any shafts they are not going to use and want to sell them let me know.

[Motorsport Micky]

Quite a few fitments by TR owners and the CDD new hubs and bigger stub axles seemed liked.

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/51563-uprated-front-hubs/?hl=%2Bfront+%2Bhubs

This isn't the only thread and mention but it seems to sum it up.

Micky.

[Tonyw]

Thanks Micky,
That link has answered my question. I will look at changing all the hubs.

Tony