Torn sump gasket repair??

[Mark Serj]

Hi all,

I tore the front of the sump gasket putting the timing cover back on - any ideas as regards in situ repair please?

ours in need....

Mark

[stagmuffin]

there are lots of instant gasket repair solutions out there silicon type skweeze on goo like jet black or jet black ultra which was recommended by a member on here

[Mark Serj]

Thanks for reply, I'm worried bout bits of gasket getting pushed into sump when put it back on.

[flying farmer]

I did the same thing a short while ago, fortunately the engine was out of the car.
I came to the conclusion refitting any sort of gasket would be an impossibility so removed the sump completely and fitted a new gasket.

If the engine had been in the car I would gave tried the instant gasket route first on the basis there would be very little to be lost by trying it. It would probably be best if you most of the silicon on the outside of the ridge between the bolt holes to avoid pushing dollops of it into the sump.
Neil

[marshman]

Mark,

In the past I have damaged the sump gasket when doing my timing chains. In that instance I cut the damaged gasket flush with the front of the block and cleaned off all traces of the old gasket. I then fabricated (cut!) and new section of gasket for the front of the sump from gasket material. Before trying to fit it all together I slackened the sump bolts down both sides and used a couple of thin wooden wedges to ease the sump away at the front. Then before reassembly I smeared both sides of the new gasket section with RTV Instant Gasket and laid it on the sump, then carefully slid the timing cover back into position. The wooden wedges held the sump far enough away to give sufficient clearance, once in place refit all the bolts and tighten them up. I did that several years ago and to date there have been no oil leaks - not from the sump anyway!

Not ideal but it worked for me. That alternative of dropping the sump totally and replacing the gasket can be done but is a lot more work involving dropping the front cross member.

Good Luck

Roger

[tractorjames]

Mark,

In the past I have damaged the sump gasket when doing my timing chains. In that instance I cut the damaged gasket flush with the front of the block and cleaned off all traces of the old gasket. I then fabricated (cut!) and new section of gasket for the front of the sump from gasket material. Before trying to fit it all together I slackened the sump bolts down both sides and used a couple of thin wooden wedges to ease the sump away at the front. Then before reassembly I smeared both sides of the new gasket section with RTV Instant Gasket and laid it on the sump, then carefully slid the timing cover back into position. The wooden wedges held the sump far enough away to give sufficient clearance, once in place refit all the bolts and tighten them up. I did that several years ago and to date there have been no oil leaks - not from the sump anyway!

Not ideal but it worked for me. That alternative of dropping the sump totally and replacing the gasket can be done but is a lot more work involving dropping the front cross member.

Good Luck

Roger

This is more or less what I did, and it worked well.

James

[Mark Serj]

Thanks everyone, Roger / James - did you use a new sump gasket to cut the new piece from?

Am wondering what thickness it is / where to get some of the correct thickness in a sheet?

Regards and thanks all again

Mark

[marshman]

Quickest and easiest would be to cut the front section off of a new sump gasket, but I didn't have one. I have quite a large collection of gasket material and just sorted through until I found something that was the right thickness and then made a piece.

Use a piece of the old gasket that you have damaged/cut out to compare thickness, as gaskets do vary in thickness, though the Instant Gasket should take up any gaps if it is slightly too thin.

Roger

[Mark Serj]

Thanks all, I've just got some rubber gasket sheet in 1, 1.5 & 2mm thickness. It should be fine with the heat of the sump, so I hope that will do the job!

Thanks again!

Regards

Mark

PS about to do power steering hoses next, judging by the forum that looks like another ar£e of a job as regards the fittings... ho hum!
PPS I changed my timing chains and tensioners. I thought the Rolon tensioner bodies a bit naff

[marshman]

I fitted Rolon tensioners to mine a few years back. The biggest concern with them to me is the extremely small size of the oil feed hole in the holder, it is easily blocked by the smallest piece of muck so absolute cleanliness (diesel injector levels) is required when reassembling to ensure it doesn't get blocked.

With regard to the power steering hoses I have not done mine but have read of many problems of remanufactured ones needing some tweaking to fit. If it was me I would take the old hoses to a hydraulic hose place and get them to make up some new ones using the old fittings, that way they are guaranteed to fit. I did this with the oil cooler hoses on my old Land Rover. You also have the added peace of mindf of knowing that the hose will be decent quality and not some Far Eastern chocolate that won't last long. I think others have used their local Pirtek branch. http://www.pirtek.co.uk/

Hope that helps

Roger

[Mark Serj]

Yep I've been thinking along similar lines so I'm taking them into Bristol Hose tomorrow after stripping them tonight .....what can go wrong?????

[tractorjames]

Thanks everyone, Roger / James - did you use a new sump gasket to cut the new piece from?

Am wondering what thickness it is / where to get some of the correct thickness in a sheet?

Regards and thanks all again

Mark

I used another gasket, just because I happened to have one. Otherwise id have opted for gasket paper or next best some cornflake packet.

James