Tubular Manifold Bolts

[DJT]

For those with stainless tubular manifolds, please check the tightness of the bolts. Lately I have noticed a different sound from the engine, which got louder during yesterday's drive. This morning I investigated the problem and found two of the gaskets on the RH manifold were blowing. So having ordered new gaskets I tackled the removal of the manifold. What a pig of a job! The lower rear bolt is almost impossible to get at. I have ended up removing the oil filter, oil pump, oil transfer housing cover (pressure switch and t-piece in the way) and distributor. This had to come out to remove the hex pump drive, so that the pump could be slid off the block. I found that most of the bolts were slightly loose, despite them being tightened properly with a torque wrench (where possible) when I fitted the manifolds 18 months ago.

Stainless steel manifold, bolts, flat and spring washers into alloy heads. Would the different expansion rates lead to bolts loosening?

Checking the LH manifold bolts revealed the same problem with tightness. I was also reminded why it is not a good idea to work in close proximity to the starter solenoid whilst wearing a steel watch strap

image.jpg

[tjk]

HI
Along time ago one of our machanics shorted out a battery with a metal watch strap, was badly burnt and ended up in hospital overnight. Never would wear a watch when working after that.

Tim

[mike@thenook]

I had similar problem with mine Dave and had to have nearly all of the helicoiled due to the threads being just not up to it.
I don't know why it is but the SS manifolds seem to loosen their bolts a lot more easily than cast iron ones; maybe its due to having the gaskets allowing movement..
Careful with that watch strap!

[kev100]

I nearly ripped the skin off my finger when a gold ring I inherited from my Grandad got caught on an engine component as I was quickly moving my hand out of the way of an impending painful disaster, I managed to avoid that one, but had to take a trip to the hospital to have the ring cut off and the tear in my skin stitched back together .. since that day I have never worn a ring, watch or any kind of jewellery again.

[DJT]

I had similar problem with mine Dave and had to have nearly all of the helicoiled due to the threads being just not up to it.
I don't know why it is but the SS manifolds seem to loosen their bolts a lot more easily than cast iron ones; maybe its due to having the gaskets allowing movement..
Careful with that watch strap!

I took the opportunity to helicoils all the threads whist the heads were off, and before fitting the manifolds.

Still, it's given me the opportunity to change all the oil o-rings again and fit the 'Frith' spring, which I've had lying around for ages, into the oil pump. Got to look on the bright side, eh?

[DJT]

I nearly ripped the skin off my finger when a gold ring I inherited from my Grandad got caught on an engine component as I was quickly moving my hand out of the way of an impending painful disaster, I managed to avoid that one, but had to take a trip to the hospital to have the ring cut off and the tear in my skin stitched back together .. since that day I have never worn a ring, watch or any kind of jewellery again.

We were banned from wearing any rings whilst working offshore. Search Google for finger de-gloving images and you'll see why. Warning - they are not for the squeamish

[KOY 23]

Dave.

I know of someone who was using a grinding disc and wore a tie. Didn't take long for it to run up the tie.
Lucky to get away with just a cleft chin.

Got a picture of the strap?

[Seaking]

Dave

Take the opportunity to weld a half washer on to the end of the oil pump relief valve plug. Neil Flying farmers idea.

Cheers Glenn

[DJT]

Dave.

I know of someone who was using a grinding disc and wore a tie. Didn't take long for it to run up the tie.
Lucky to get away with just a cleft chin.

Got a picture of the strap?

The strap is fine John, thanks.....

[DJT]

What a pig of a job! The gaskets arrived this morning so straight out to tackle the job. Rapidly came to the conclusion that I needed hands the size of my 6-year-old grandson, with strong double jointed fingers! Very nearly got one of the tricky bolts started and SWMBO enters the garage with the words "sorry to interrupt, but......". Bolt drops out of fingers onto the floor. Struggling to reach it I tipped over the almost full windscreen washer bottle which was 'safely' stowed out of the way on the garage floor. SWMBO beat a hasty retreat. In almost 40 years of marriage, she has never heard me use 'navvy language', but today was very nearly the first time....

Finally got the manifold back on; the lower rear bolt is a real struggle, then tackled replacing the oil transfer housing. Yet another 'challenge' trying to fiddle it into place between the tubular manifold and the auto dipstick, without dropping the two o-rings, lining it up correctly and getting the bolt in.....

Anyway, job done and the engine has recovered its normal sound....

[mole42]

Hmmm. I have to put gaskets in mine, only cast manifolds though. I hope it's not quite such a pig of a job on those.

Well done for perseverance Dave!

[jbuckl]

Its likely that the gaskets 'settled' / relaxed & the joint thickness reduced and allowed the bolts to come loose.
FWIW, the bolts don't seems too awkward to get to with standard manifolds & 1/4" drive deep sockets. Do the tubular manifolds make things more awkward?

For those with stainless tubular manifolds, please check the tightness of the bolts. Lately I have noticed a different sound from the engine, which got louder during yesterday's drive. This morning I investigated the problem and found two of the gaskets on the RH manifold were blowing. So having ordered new gaskets I tackled the removal of the manifold. What a pig of a job! The lower rear bolt is almost impossible to get at. I have ended up removing the oil filter, oil pump, oil transfer housing cover (pressure switch and t-piece in the way) and distributor. This had to come out to remove the hex pump drive, so that the pump could be slid off the block. I found that most of the bolts were slightly loose, despite them being tightened properly with a torque wrench (where possible) when I fitted the manifolds 18 months ago.

Stainless steel manifold, bolts, flat and spring washers into alloy heads. Would the different expansion rates lead to bolts loosening?

Checking the LH manifold bolts revealed the same problem with tightness. I was also reminded why it is not a good idea to work in close proximity to the starter solenoid whilst wearing a steel watch strap

[ATTACH=CONFIG]37492[/ATTACH]

[DJT]

Its likely that the gaskets 'settled' / relaxed & the joint thickness reduced and allowed the bolts to come loose.
FWIW, the bolts don't seems too awkward to get to with standard manifolds & 1/4" drive deep sockets. Do the tubular manifolds make things more awkward?

You are probably right Julian. With tubular manifolds the LH head bolts aren't too bad, but there are a couple on the RH head, particularly the lower rear one, which are quite tricky to get in. A socket, of any type, can't be used on this one.