remove steering column lock/ignition switch?

[ukbiggles]

Hi all

I need to replace the bush at the top of the steering column as a number of the ball bearings have escaped and the steering wheel has a lot of play in it. In my naivety, it looks like I should be able to simply remove the top end of the outer column, but the question is what to do with the steering column lock/ignition switch. Would I be able to leave it in situ and simply insert the keys to make sure the lock is in the 'open' position and withdraw the assembly from the top of the column, or is it necessary to remove the lock/switch completely?

I'm guessing the answer may be 'you have to do it the hard way and remove the lock/switch', but just thought I'd ask!

Gord

[jbuckl]

IIRC the bearing (not bush) can be changed in situ, without removing the lock.

Any other people able to confirm?

Remove the wheel, switches, self cancelling cam & star/spring washer retainer then prize / lever the old bearing out.

These bearings are not that good, unless they are pre-loaded


do use the 'hart' top bearing clamp-ring.

I recently had success in pre-loading the bearing clamp ring before doing up the grub screws, by using a piece of pipe & the steering wheel nut

[GDPR]

Seconded on the pipe/nut preload method - very controllable way to do it and no need for 3 hands

22mm copper plumbing pipe is perfect

[38rover]

IIRC the bearing (not bush) can be changed in situ, without removing the lock.

Any other people able to confirm?

Remove the wheel, switches, self cancelling cam & star/spring washer retainer then prize / lever the old bearing out.

These bearings are not that good, unless they are pre-loaded


do use the 'hart' top bearing clamp-ring.

I recently had success in pre-loading the bearing clamp ring before doing up the grub screws, by using a piece of pipe & the steering wheel nut

There are 2 of these bearings can you replace both with this method ?

[ukbiggles]

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

Yes, I can see that you can lever the top bearing out. The casing that the bearing fits into has been damaged by a PO doing exactly that.

I was more interested in doing both bearings, and had a look at on old column and switch when I was at Paddocks today getting the parts. I think that provided the steering lock is disengaged with the key first, it should be possible to pull off the assembly that contains both these bearings without disturbing the rest of the column.

Will post again when i have had a go.

I had a Paddocks ring clamp fitted rather than the Hart one. Anyone know if one is better than the other?

Thanks again

Gord

[susiedeer]

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

Yes, I can see that you can lever the top bearing out. The casing that the bearing fits into has been damaged by a PO doing exactly that.

I was more interested in doing both bearings, and had a look at on old column and switch when I was at Paddocks today getting the parts. I think that provided the steering lock is disengaged with the key first, it should be possible to pull off the assembly that contains both these bearings without disturbing the rest of the column.

Will post again when i have had a go.

I had a Paddocks ring clamp fitted rather than the Hart one. Anyone know if one is better than the other?

Thanks again

Gord

I think the ring clamps are the same
Andy

[ukbiggles]

Hi all

Well, mixed results with my approach. It certainly is possible to remove the aluminium housing containing both top bushes (and ignition switch/column lock etc) with the rest of the column still in situ.

Remove the indicator and wiper stalks, the indicator cancellation cam. Undo the two bolts holding the aluminium casting from the (black in mine) steel outer column and start to ease the ally casting up the upper column. The ignition switch is connected to the column lock mechanism using two grub screws. One is easy to get at, the other was possible on mine once I pulled the aluminium casting towards me and upwards, exposing the grub screw. This will unwind any folded cable so be careful not to break the solder connection to the switch. When the screws are out, the ignition switch will pull off the column lock. Use your key to unlock the column lock and the ally casting will simply pull off the upper inner column.

Or it should on any normal car!

Mine would rotate on the upper column really freely but something was preventing it from pulling off. Turns out the lower bush had disintegrated and the pieces made it very difficult to pull off as they jammed in the gap. I ended up pulling on the ally casting while tapping the end of the upper column. Mistake as I ended up mushrooming the end of the column, compressing the screw thread and now can't get the steering wheel nut back on. So the whole column had to come out and go off to my friendly menders!

So two lessons learned. 1) never use a hammer near a screw thread and 2) also have a REALLY good look at the job before you dive in. The reason I wanted to remove the ally casting on its own without removing the column lock was to avoid the potential problem of getting the sheared bolts out. Imagine my chagrin when I got the ally casting off and found that a PO had replaced the sheared bolts with screws that simply screwed off. You have to laugh!!

Mind you, it wouldn't have made it any easier to get the casting off and I would have still messed up the end of the column.

Gord

[Mike Stevens]

If you need to 'dress' a thread end, try putting a nut on first so that it is level with the top of the thread. This should cause less damage!

OK, too late now, but next time?

Cheers,
Mike.

[ukbiggles]

Thanks, Mike, yes, I should have thought of that, but didn't take the time to think about it.

Good news is that the mender has managed to fix it so that the thread has been restored. Miracle worker!

Cheers

Gord