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    inlet manifold. What would you do?

    I've just removed my Stroms to fit a new Weber and on fitting the throttle cable bracket to the inlet manifold bolt the thread on the bolt is stripped with the lightest of tightening i.e just past finger tight.
    Inlet manifold off or is there a way of rethreading without removal of the manifold?
    There was no water loss prior to this procedure.
    Thanks in advance
    Steve

    #2
    Steve, I would not disturb unless you need to as it is not leaking. I had the centre bolt on the manifold stripped and had to helicoil. All i did was to cover the air inlet with strong gaffer tape drilled, tapped and helicoiled and then vacuumed everything up before removing tape. Terry

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      #3
      Sorry mate - it's the long one, which is marginal length at best without removing it to add a bracket underneath. It will have to come off for helicoil as you can't be sure you A) have drilled the correct depth B) don't bridge the helicoil twixt head and manifold and C) successfully cleared all swarf and debris, plus you will massively over drill the manifold.

      Bet you wish you'd tuned the Stroms now

      Russ
      Last edited by GDPR; 29 July 2016, 13:53. Reason: incorrect spelling

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        #4
        mmmm do you know if the hole has been helicoiled previously? If negative then you will need to helicoil and then if you leave the manifold in place then its hole will end up oversized. I would remove the manifold and do it right. Craig

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          #5
          If one of them has stripped you might find that several more have gone too (guess how I know that?) and taking the manifold off is the best solution. Some of the bolts in mine had been Araldited (other makes of epoxy adhesive are available) into the head so I was glad I'd taken the manifold off.
          Richard
          Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

          Comment


            #6
            I helicoiled every single thread on both manifolds but not in situ. I would think the surrounding bolts were enough to see you through and maybe do this in the winter when the stag is more likely off the road. Most manifold almost glue themselves to the heads so it won't instantly leak least you hope not.
            You could then put a thread in the top of the manifold to hold your cable for now.
            Long term as has been said it needs to come off.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Bandit1200 View Post
              I've just removed my Stroms to fit a new Weber and on fitting the throttle cable bracket to the inlet manifold bolt the thread on the bolt is stripped with the lightest of tightening i.e just past finger tight.
              Inlet manifold off or is there a way of rethreading without removal of the manifold?
              There was no water loss prior to this procedure.
              Thanks in advance
              Steve
              You could measure how deep the hole is and compare that to the bolt if there is a bit more thread left in the hole a longer bolt cut to suit may just give you a bit of breathing space until you effect a proper repair.

              Ian.
              Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                I've just returned from Paddocks with a new set of thin gaskets and a set of new manifold bolts.
                Taking Russ's comments about the marginal length of the long bolts I decided to try a new bolt with no washer and it tightened to the correct torque. Result!!!!
                I'll now fit the Weber and if there is a manifold leak I can remove the manifold and carb assembly. I hope that I will be able to enjoy what's left of the Summer and leave the manifold off job for later in the year.
                Thanks Russ and all who responded. Job resolved within 3 hours of my initial thread.
                A happy but somehow Stagparanoic Steve

                Comment


                  #9
                  E-metal will work, with release agent on the bolts threads there will be no need to do any drilling or tapping. Other wise i would use thread insert rather that heli-coils as there is no tang to knock off and there far stronger.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Another variation on Ian's idea is to get a stud long enough to use all the available good thread (assuming there is some) then thread the top end of the stud to allow a nut to be fitted once the stud has been screwed into place.
                    There will be a bit less likelyhood of the stud pulling out with the nut being done up than with screwing in a bolt to a worn thread, it's a bodge but it will keep it going until you take it off completely and then helicoil all the holes at once.
                    cheers
                    Mike

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