Starboard List

[seadog]

My car is suffering from a starboard list, front right hand side about two or so inches lower than the left, and similarly an inch or thereabouts at the rear, I have been told the usual "they all do that mate coz of the battery and fuel tank on that side" and was also told that I will need to renew all four springs to correct it.

Having had a very quick look at the manual, the rear springs seem as though they are easy, just the shocker bottom nut to remove and lower the radius arm (carefully) and the spring just falls out......my car had new rear shocks about 4 years (1600 miles) ago so nuts shouldn't be too rusty or tight hopefully.

The front are a different kettle of fish though, looks as though I will need a spring compressor, can anyone recommend one - I have a pair of hook type spring compressors, will they do?

Is it worth doing anything else at the same time? I'll obviously replace the spring insulators but is it worth changing the inserts on the front? The car has just passed it's MOT today so there shouldn't (famous last words) be anything wrong..........

Is it easy to change the inserts?

Will the ride height be ok afterwards, I've read somewhere that the car can look too high? (Mine has the Triumph V8 engine)

I'll probably go with Rimmers spring and insulator kit at £119, marginally cheaper than Paddocks but any advice would be appreciated, either concerning the job or components.

[KOY 23]

Chris Witor is the man for suspension parts. I have the hook sort, just be very careful to tighten them equally, and make sure they don't slip. You may be able to hire better compressers. Inserts are not necessarily easy as there is a large nut of various designs to undo, but if the struts are good, there's no point.

[Lingen]

Seadog. The comments about the battery etc. are a load of rubbish, as I'm sure you realise. Stag springs usually last well-I still have all four originals on my car, so you shouldn't need to change all of them. The rear ones come off very easily, just as you have described. To do the front ones you will have to remove the strut assembly and get busy with a spring compressor, or maybe you have a local garage with an air operated one that will do it in a matter of minutes.
If you find either pair is of unequal "Free" length, then replacements will be necessary. However, be warned that there are springs being sold that are virtually useless as they are far too long on the car. If you can't get absolute confirmation from your preferred supplier that the ones they have are correct, I can advise you where to get ones that are.
Mike.

[milothedog]

This is a picture of what came off my car on the rleft are the new ones from Rob Sport and the old ones on the right.

Picture 006.jpg

[seadog]

Thanks for the info, I've got a bit more research to do - look at the car to begin with, because I've not even looked at the front struts yet to see if my spring compressors will fit the spring!

It really does look as though the springs are knackered though, with the car sitting low on the drivers side, there's no history of them being changed in the last fifteen years, and my weight in the drivers seat won't help!

All suppliers that I've looked at - Rimmers, Paddocks and Robsport - have similar prices and the items they supply should be fit for purpose, just that Rimmers do the 'kit' which is slightly cheaper than buying the springs and insulators separately. Knowing my luck, I'll find that I need something else once I remove the first strut..................



If it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.

[DJT]

As above. What I would add though is be careful using the hook type compressors. The Stag front springs are rather long, and many of the spring compressors on the market aren't long enough to compress the springs enough to undo the top nut. I've done this job a few times and have two pairs of compressors. I needed to take two 'bites' at the job to get the springs short enough. The compressors aren't long enough when undone to grab enough spring coils to do the job in one go. Having four hook compressors on the springs also gives a better safety margin as it reduces the chance of one slipping, with potentially disastrous results........

[seadog]

What do you reckon to these? These are identical to a set a friend has 235mm max extension and I can borrow these, looked at mine and they will be too dangerous, I cut two of the hooks to fit something years ago. DOH!!



Screen Shot 08-11-16 at 09.16 PM 001.JPGScreen Shot 08-11-16 at 09.16 PM.JPG

[new to this]

What do you reckon to these? These are identical to a set a friend has 235mm max extension and I can borrow these, looked at mine and they will be too dangerous, I cut two of the hooks to fit something years ago. DOH!!



[ATTACH=CONFIG]38264[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]38265[/ATTACH]

you can get some that have a clip that goes over the spring coil, to enclose it i think there a bit safer

Dave

[seadog]

you can get some that have a clip that goes over the spring coil, to enclose it i think there a bit safer

Dave

You mean like this?

Screen Shot 08-11-16 at 09.37 PM.JPG




My mate reckons his are ok, with the two hook cradle at one end he says they can't slip, although these ones that have a clip won't come off, but they could slip round if you see what I mean?

[mole42]

What do you reckon to these?

They are very similar to mine and I've had it off with springs many times, mine are quite worn but don't slip.Biggest I ever did was the front of an Alvis TD they are serious springs, make the Triumph ones look like garden wire.

Richard

[Nigel W]

I got mine from Machine Mart and they worked just fine https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht2...ng-compressor/

[KOY 23]

They are very similar to mine and I've had it off with springs many times, mine are quite worn but don't slip.Biggest I ever did was the front of an Alvis TD they are serious springs, make the Triumph ones look like garden wire.

Richard

Variety is the spice of life

[Motorsport Micky]

"Having had a very quick look at the manual, the rear springs seem as though they are easy, just the shocker bottom nut to remove and lower the radius arm (carefully) and the spring just falls out......"

Just remember if you have replaced the rear sliding driveshafts with CV driveshafts to unbolt the CV driveshafts from the diff end and release them from the diff to prevent the CV shafts being overextended with subsequent damage.

Micky

[StagnJag]

If my memory serves me correctly, I think mine were relatively cheap Laser ones from Halfords. The hooks are 'as cast'. and not machined so they have a relatively rough surface and are less inclined to slip.

Regards

Dave

[seadog]

Thanks again people.

I've just had a wee look at the front struts at the car as it is sitting in the garage and noticed that the gaiter on the high, or good side is well and truly goosed, (can't see the other side cos the car sits too low) but presumably both will need replacing, have to hope that the insert damper shaft isn't too badly pitted or rusted. Both sides damping seems ok and as it passed the MOT yesterday they mustn't be leaking.

Are there any other consumable parts like the gaiters that I should order?? I want to do the job in one hit as the car might have to be half out of garage to do the job properly and if I get the strut dismantled then find I need other bits to put it back together the air will turn a rather deep shade of blue!