water pump cage removal

[len]

hi
am going to send my water pump off to ld parts to be machined due to a irritating water/oil leak. My pump is out, bolt is still fixed to pump and cage is attached to pump. whats the easiest and correct way to remove the cage ?
Thanks in advance
Len

[Lingen]

Len. Why do you want to remove the cage? I'm sure LD Parts will want the complete assembly to rebuild it for you.
Mike.

[len]

Ohh.
Yes good point. I will send the complete pump to him.
Cheers
Len

[edd]

After just hearing about two recent water pump Jack shaft failures is anyone closer to re making the stag dad daddy pump set up. It's such a great mod some don't even know it exists.
Edd

[len]

Appreciate that Edd, but I am happy with original set up ....
Len

[1959terry]

After just hearing about two recent water pump Jack shaft failures is anyone closer to re making the stag dad daddy pump set up. It's such a great mod some don't even know it exists.
Edd

Has anyone fitted the Davies Craig water pump with success as an alternative?

[fussydave]

Terry not wanting to have another waterpump/jackshaft disaster, while having the engine rebuilt I decided to have Wards fit the Davies Craig pump complete with their hose system and I also had a Revotec electric fan fitted at the same time. You can adjust the engines temperature via the little control unit which I have now fitted on the parcel shelf. The fitting of the pump requires the alternator to be moved so I ended up with an uprated alternator as well. So far it seems to be working OK, I have lowered the temperature from 85 to 80 degrees and that seems to keep the needle just south of the centre of the temperature gauge. Time will tell as to how good it is in all traffic conditions.
Dave

[1959terry]

Thanks for the info Dave. i will see what others have to say as well

[flying farmer]

I have 2 Stag engines running on the Davies Craig electric pump, and one Rover V8 as well.

The Rover V8 has the proper electronic controller unit (bought the whole lot second hand off ebay for the price of a pump alone)

The 2 Stag engines, one in my TR and one in my 246bhp Stag, both use just the electric pump with the feed voltage dropped across a MK1 ballast resistor to give constant pumping at a reduced flow rate compared to the pulsed pumping generated by the proper controller.

In the TR I have fitted a switched bypass to the ballast resistor so I can give the pump full voltage if required. I sometimes use this when doing track days in hot weather, but to be honest it makes little difference to the running temp.
I still have not got round to fitting the bypass on the Stag, though I do have the option to physically bypass the ballast resistor if I ever needed to (I never have) simply by removing the wire from the ballast resistor and pushing it onto the piggyback connector on the feed wire.

The pump on the TR is well over 10 years old now, I bought it for a failed water pump and jackshaft on a Dolomite Sprint engine, it subsequently spent several years on a 1300 Triumph engine before finding its way onto the TR when I got fed up with its incontinent original pump, and I think that was back in 2008 or 2009.

I leave the thermostat in place and re plumb the cooling system to suit the external pump. I have found this gives an effective interior heater unit.

On the properly controlled unit on the Rover V8, the heater was crap without the thermostat fitted, and only slightly better with it fitted.

I think the fundamental problem is that the controller only works in bursts, 10 seconds in every 30 seconds when the engine is running at its rated temperature.

It then steps up to 20 in 30 or continual running when the engine temp gets 10 degrees over its set point. The snag here is that in frosty weather the engine never really gets warm enough for the pump to work more than one third of the time requiring lots of warm clothing and de icer for the inside of the screen.

This Winter I am going to disconnect the controller and try the ballast resistor route and see if I can get a car that I want to use in frosty weather. It is possible to buy a heater circuit pump for lots of extra money, but I doubt I could find anywhere to put it in the Toledo as it is pretty crowded under the bonnet with a Twin Plenum V8 squeezed in there!

My other Stag has the daddy pump fitted, one of the first batch he manufactured. It has performed faultlessly since it was fitted.

Neil

[edd]

I'm in sunny Cornwall st Ives at present and absolutely loving it. Very hot at present but the car is performing great. Lots of stopping and starting sight seeing too. Lots of great comments and surprising just how many had one when new. For me the engineering of a little gear spinning to power a pump that can sieze or the gear can shatter is one less worry I'm glad not to have.

[1959terry]

Neil, sounds like you approve. May have to consider one as the next upgrade. do you have any photos and drawings to how it is configured?
terry

[len]

Ok ... so I have sent pump off with cage fitted...but I would still like to know how the cage is removed from pump....does anyone know ?
Len

[Seaking]

image.jpgHope this helps you press fit I beleive

cheers Glenn

[marshman]

Ok ... so I have sent pump off with cage fitted...but I would still like to know how the cage is removed from pump....does anyone know ?
Len

Hi Len,

If I remember correctly when I rebuilt mine I heated up the cage with a heat gun to expand it slightly, it then just fell off of the rest of the assembly.

I machined all the bits myself to fit the ceramic seal from LD Parts, The pump has never leaked one drop of water since I refitted it.

Roger

[len]

Thanks Glenn and Roger....All seems logical now ......i do hate not knowing somethings !
Len