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    Dizzy problems

    Hi All

    Last month our Stag decided to melt its rotor arm whilst my son and I were out for a drive. I fitted a replacement and we were on our way again within a few minutes. I assumed (incorrectly) at the time that it was just a rubbish part and thought nothing more of it.

    Fast forward to this morning and we were all going out for a family lunch after a drive to enjoy the glorious weather. I checked the car over and all seemed well. However, a small voice inside my head said, "look inside the dizzy cap". I removed the cap and was horrified to find the following:-

    the rotor arm partially melted
    the rotor arm tip worn
    a deep rove in the chopper blades
    plastic dust covering inside the dizzy cap

    I took hold of the dizzy shaft and I discovered that I can lift it vertically by about 10mm. Basically the car was on the verge of failing again so I put it back in the garage and we used our Nissan Xtrail. To put this all into context the car has only done 130 miles since the previous rotor arm melted.

    I have E-Lads Stag here for welding at the moment and I checked the dizzy on that car.It has vertical movement of about 3mm. Gresley checked his car for me and reports vertical movement of just a few thou.

    At this stage I an assuming that the excess vertical movement in the dizzy driveshaft is allowing the rotor arm to come into contact with the dizzy cap and the chopper blade to touch the Illumination light sensor.

    Thoughts, suggestions please.

    Thanks in anticipation

    Bruce
    Attached Files

    #2
    Well that is quite spectacular!

    I assume that it is the entire shaft lifting up, not just the top part held down by the central screw as the advance springs tend to hold that in line.

    The only thing I can think is the roll pin holding the shaft to the gear has failed, but I would have thought that the shaft would have turned and thrown the timing out.

    Sounds like dizzy out time!

    Neil
    Neil
    TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

    Comment


      #3
      Bruce try this chap http://www.distributordoctor.com give him a ring he tel:01984 629540 he should be able to help he also supply's very high quality rotor. Arms

      Cheers Glenn
      Last edited by Seaking; 29 August 2016, 22:16.

      Comment


        #4
        LD Parts now stock DD rotor arms and do reconditioned dizzys too.
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

        Comment


          #5
          I have used the Distributor Doctor too, great guy definitely recommend contacting him for parts or a rebuild.

          As you are going to have to take the dizzie out, think about the refitting. Move the crank round until No. 2 cylinder is at TDC before removal, as it will make re-timing the engine much easier when you get the new/reconditioned dizzie back. If the shaft can be lifted by 10mm then something has definitely come adrift. When you dismantle it be careful that it all comes out and you don't leave any broken parts in the engine.

          Just a quick question is the screw in the middle of the distributor shaft actually tightly screwed down. If its loose then it would be the bob weights, springs and plate that was holding it all together.
          Last edited by Carboy0; 30 August 2016, 09:16.
          Chris
          Magenta Stag TV8 MOD

          Comment


            #6
            Hi All

            I removed the dizzy this evening and the gear and pin are all in place. The screw in the top centre was very loose and this was allowing the top centre section to move up and down on the shaft. Well done Chris for suggesting that as the cause.

            I will dismantle the dizzy, clean out all the plastic debri from amongst the base plates and weights, reassemble it all whilst ensuring I put a blob of Loctite on that screw! A new rotor arm and cap will be required but I think the chopper blade will go again.

            Thanks for all the suggestions chaps.

            Regards

            Bruce

            Comment


              #7
              Hi All

              Whilst clearing photos off of our digi camera I realised that I never posted on here what I found. After removing the top plates and vac unit, I discovered that one of the weights had become detached due to the top half of the shaft moving up and down.

              I cleaned out all the debri, refitted the weight and reassembled the rest, not forgetting some Loctite on that screw in the top of the shaft!. After timing the engine, it is running sweat now

              Regards

              Bruce
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                cheap and easy fix
                Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                Comment


                  #9
                  Bruce.
                  Be very mean with the Loctite. Oil has to be able to get past that screw head to lubricate the spindle it screws in to. If it dries up the mechanical advance/retard can seize.
                  Mike.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hi Mike

                    A fair comment. My intention is to squirt some oil down into the dizzy twice a year. I would rather the screw remained in place rather than experience a repeat of the first failure.

                    Regards

                    Bruce

                    Comment

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