Compression Test and What to Choose

[thebadleys]

Having done very little with the Stag for a couple of months and I a considering putting it on SORN in October as we are going away for a couple of weeks I am considering starting the winter overhaul early.

One issue that I had were noisy tappets on the left bank which I reset some months ago, which quietened the problem, but, whist doing that I found some worn valve guides, mainly on the left hand head where I found a considerable build up of carbonated oil in the cam followers. The right hand head by comparison was "clean" leading me to believe that the right hand head had been off whilst the left hand one hadn't.

So today I carried our a compression test which produced the following results :-

Right Hand Head	Cylinder
	1	180
	3	180
	5	180
	7	175
Left Hand Head
	2	165
	4	175
	6	135
	8	180

Now the question is, do remove just the left hand head OR do I remove both heads ? I am aware that number 6 cylinder is the Beelzebub of the engine (does anyone know why) and this appears to be the worst cylinder, No. has had a insert fitted to the plug threads after it blew a plug out and a few other threads are "iffy"

The vehicle has always had a "Harshness" to it which could be the imbalance of the engine banks, or not.

There is no overheating, no unusual oil consumption, no oil burning, it has return 27 m.p.g. on a fault free 1700 mile trip to France ,there is some coolant that appears in the V after a run which I think is the manifold gasket.

Your comments and suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks in advance

Nigel

[stagmuffin]

one off then both off i wouldn't have it any other way ,just as easy when your in there and you will feel happier knowing you checked it all out .well i would !
if you apply the 10% rule then only one pot is low no 6 but just as easy to check and sort them all once and for all it should see you out then nige lol

[thebadleys]

Thanks Steve, it's really what I know I should do, I am searching the paperwork I got with the car, I'm sure there were some photos of a head off, just to confirm my thoughts.

I suppose I should look at the chains and tensioners as I am taking the rad out to have a boss fitted for my HEADER/EXPANSION TANK to pipe it up "correctly". and also to fit the correct sized fan as mentioned in another post, it appears that the one fitted is from a TR 7 !!

LD for the chains etc. but who supplies the best head gaskets and other items I might need? I propose to start stripping at the end of the month when I put a SORN on the car and, should the heads need work get them into a engine specialist whilst I am away for a couple of weeks.

Any recommendations for engine specialist around Greater Manchester please.

Any other advice tips would be most welcome.

Thanks

Nigel

[KOY 23]

Nigel.
A good tip from Russ is to get the engine hot and immediately try to loosen studs. It would probably be worth getting more nuts to lock onto studs to avoid delay.
It worked for me, all studs out with no breakages.

[davidf]

Head gaskets - if standard thickness, make sure you get the SOCTFL ones which became available last summer. They were only available from Abinger Hammer, but that might have changed.

[DJT]

Standard thickness: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...6860d6260ea912

Extra thick: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...6860d6260ea912

[thebadleys]

Thanks guys just seen these on Ebay genuine Payen

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Stag-payen-head-gaskets-/331976675670?hash=item4d4b5a1156:g:TlwAAOSw4shX4UCN

[StagJonno]

Thanks Nigel,

PM sent

Jonno

[thebadleys]

Nigel.
A good tip from Russ is to get the engine hot and immediately try to loosen studs. It would probably be worth getting more nuts to lock onto studs to avoid delay.
It worked for me, all studs out with no breakages.

Thanks seems a good tip, will give it a go as I have decided to bite the bullet and go for it.

Nigel

[thebadleys]

Head gaskets - if standard thickness, make sure you get the SOCTFL ones which became available last summer. They were only available from Abinger Hammer, but that might have changed.

Thanks for info' just bought the original Payens as above, all gone now.

Nigel

[thebadleys]

Standard thickness: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...6860d6260ea912

Extra thick: http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...6860d6260ea912

Hi Dave, as above bought the Payen original but will keep references handy should I be unhappy with these when they arrive.

Nigel

[thebadleys]

Thanks Nigel,

PM sent

Jonno

Great minds

Nigel

[thebadleys]

Did an oil in the cylinder test last night on number 6 and compression raised to 150 psi so its "off with their heads" as the say.

I have decided to replace the timing chains as well so I have ordered these from LD as they appear to be "the" suppliers for the best ones, why does no one else appear to sell them , also ordered associated gaskets and seals AND some new nuts to lock on before the engine cools and I extricate the studs, wish me luck.

Emailed a couple of engine reconditions for estimates to have new guides fitted, valves reseated etc. not got a reply from any !!!!

Hopefully I will get a start before weekend as the weather i looking grim up North for the next few days it doesn't look like i'll get a last drive out before the RFL expires.

As an aside I've bought a new shed just to store my hard top and all the bits I've accumulated for the Stag in only 2 years of ownership, the MGB bits are almost gone now but I seem to have filled the space, is this normal?

Nigel

[milothedog]

Did an oil in the cylinder test last night on number 6 and compression raised to 150 psi so its "off with their heads" as the say.

I have decided to replace the timing chains as well so I have ordered these from LD as they appear to be "the" suppliers for the best ones, why does no one else appear to sell them , also ordered associated gaskets and seals AND some new nuts to lock on before the engine cools and I extricate the studs, wish me luck.

Emailed a couple of engine reconditions for estimates to have new guides fitted, valves reseated etc. not got a reply from any !!!!

Hopefully I will get a start before weekend as the weather i looking grim up North for the next few days it doesn't look like i'll get a last drive out before the RFL expires.

As an aside I've bought a new shed just to store my hard top and all the bits I've accumulated for the Stag in only 2 years of ownership, the MGB bits are almost gone now but I seem to have filled the space, is this normal?

Nigel

Seeing as no one else has mentioned it, Russ's technique of getting the engine nice and hot before trying to remove the studs is to not worry about anything Nigel, you literally get it nice and Hot and start removing the studs, don't bother to drain the coolant or undo anything else, use the limited time to shift the studs and bolts. The mess can be mopped up later and releasing all the other parts can be done as it cools.


Ian.

[PhilB]

I used Bannisters in Bamber Bridge near Preston behind Nat West Bank on old A6 - just off M6/M65 junctions to refurb my two heads
They removed the cams etc and skimmed lightly. then fitted new valve guides and refitted cams re-doing all shims etc.
They re-used my old valves as they were Ok and reground all valve seats. They also fitted all my new core plugs
(I supplied the core plugs and the valve guides)
Total cost just over 4 hundred pounds
They are not the cheapest - I know some people have paid less - but I believe they are good (old boys rule) been doing machining etc over thirty / forty years