Things to know
The Stag uses two choke cables, one for each carburettor. The single choke pull is directly attached to the two cables, you cannot easily dismantle the inner cable from the outer as there is no easy access to the heads of the individual outer cables.
This explanation will deal only with a total replacement. It's how I did it and I suspect others will have their own ideas and methods. My replacement was supplied by James Paddock and was a cable kit with a separate new knob, grub screw and Allen key.
Tools required
Longish shaft Philips screwdriver
Snipe nosed (pointed) pliers or right angle circlip pliers
1/4" AF spanner or socket
Roll of insulation tape
Sheet metal cutters, cutting jaw in pliers or side cutters
Very fine or jewellers flat head screwdriver
Magnetic tray to retain screws etc.
Very fine punch or a pin
Fine metric Allen key (2mm or 2.5mm) should be supplied with new choke knob
3.5 mm drill bit and pillar drill or a vice and electric drill
Several small cable ties
Portable vacuum cleaner
Steps
1. Remove the carb air filter housing. Undo the carb end of the choke cables and release the outers from the carb brackets, be careful not to break the metal clips, as you will need them again at the end. They are 40 ish years old and can grow brittle. Disconnect the battery.
2. Tape or cable tie the carb ends of the cables outers together close to the end of the shortest cable outer.
3. Check your choke knob to see if it has a grub screw, self tapping screw or nothing holding the knob onto the shaft. If there is a grub screw or self tapper, undo and remove the knob. If there is no obvious fixing, then you have the original or OE replacement choke knob and cable system. Pull the choke cable out until the shaft is exposed. You will see a very small offset hole, this has a minuscule roll pin through it, push out with the fine punch or pin and remove the knob. Unfortunately this cannot be reused with the Paddocks replacement.
IMG_3335.jpg
4. Undo the decorative bezel with the narrow point pliers or circlip pliers. Other tools could be used.
5. Between the gearstick and the ash tray is a separate wooden panel, the edge nearest the gearstick has a plastic trim running across it. Gently lever this up from the gear stick side.
6. Immediately beneath the edge closest to the gearstick you will find two screws, remove and store.
IMG_3331.jpg
7. Remove the three heater control knobs and store. I removed the heater control facia and ashtray but it's not absolutely necessary.
IMG_3327.jpg
8. Where the passenger parcel shelf is screwed to the centre console you will find two screws, remove and store.
IMG_3332.jpg
9. Lift the wooden panel around the gearknob, it is held by a clip at the handbrake end. Pull the complete centre consol towards you by 3" or 4". Vacuum out the accumulated 40 years of c**p!
10. Disconnect the white/blue wire from the choke warning light switch.
IMG_3341.jpg
The Stag uses two choke cables, one for each carburettor. The single choke pull is directly attached to the two cables, you cannot easily dismantle the inner cable from the outer as there is no easy access to the heads of the individual outer cables.
This explanation will deal only with a total replacement. It's how I did it and I suspect others will have their own ideas and methods. My replacement was supplied by James Paddock and was a cable kit with a separate new knob, grub screw and Allen key.
Tools required
Longish shaft Philips screwdriver
Snipe nosed (pointed) pliers or right angle circlip pliers
1/4" AF spanner or socket
Roll of insulation tape
Sheet metal cutters, cutting jaw in pliers or side cutters
Very fine or jewellers flat head screwdriver
Magnetic tray to retain screws etc.
Very fine punch or a pin
Fine metric Allen key (2mm or 2.5mm) should be supplied with new choke knob
3.5 mm drill bit and pillar drill or a vice and electric drill
Several small cable ties
Portable vacuum cleaner
Steps
1. Remove the carb air filter housing. Undo the carb end of the choke cables and release the outers from the carb brackets, be careful not to break the metal clips, as you will need them again at the end. They are 40 ish years old and can grow brittle. Disconnect the battery.
2. Tape or cable tie the carb ends of the cables outers together close to the end of the shortest cable outer.
3. Check your choke knob to see if it has a grub screw, self tapping screw or nothing holding the knob onto the shaft. If there is a grub screw or self tapper, undo and remove the knob. If there is no obvious fixing, then you have the original or OE replacement choke knob and cable system. Pull the choke cable out until the shaft is exposed. You will see a very small offset hole, this has a minuscule roll pin through it, push out with the fine punch or pin and remove the knob. Unfortunately this cannot be reused with the Paddocks replacement.
IMG_3335.jpg
4. Undo the decorative bezel with the narrow point pliers or circlip pliers. Other tools could be used.
5. Between the gearstick and the ash tray is a separate wooden panel, the edge nearest the gearstick has a plastic trim running across it. Gently lever this up from the gear stick side.
6. Immediately beneath the edge closest to the gearstick you will find two screws, remove and store.
IMG_3331.jpg
7. Remove the three heater control knobs and store. I removed the heater control facia and ashtray but it's not absolutely necessary.
IMG_3327.jpg
8. Where the passenger parcel shelf is screwed to the centre console you will find two screws, remove and store.
IMG_3332.jpg
9. Lift the wooden panel around the gearknob, it is held by a clip at the handbrake end. Pull the complete centre consol towards you by 3" or 4". Vacuum out the accumulated 40 years of c**p!
10. Disconnect the white/blue wire from the choke warning light switch.
IMG_3341.jpg
Comment