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    Passenger door window fail

    So one minute the window worked, then ten minutes later it didn't. Is there a fuse somewhere that could have gone, or is it likely to be the switch?

    #2
    Have both windows failed? If so it could be the thermal fuse which should reset itself. If only one could be switch, motor or wiring. Each window is not individually protected.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by GrahamF View Post
      So one minute the window worked, then ten minutes later it didn't. Is there a fuse somewhere that could have gone, or is it likely to be the switch?
      I had a probably identical problem a year or so ago. I lowered the LH window but could not raise it. In my case it was the switch. In one thread on here it suggested that the switch could be dismantled and cleaned but I coud not find a way of opening it without risking breakage. I tested functionality on bench with a multimeter and found indeed that "up" was not connecting.

      I sprayed switch cleaner into every orifice and then operated switch repeatedly. I then left overnight and repeated excercise. Check with multimeter then OK. Reinstalled switch and has worked perfectly since.

      HTH

      H

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        #4
        The drivers side window still operates.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by GrahamF View Post
          The drivers side window still operates.
          Indicates that thermal circuit breaker is not your problem. Next (easiest) is to check/ clean the switch as "H" above.
          White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

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            #6
            These switches are indeed a problem. They are getting to be several years past their 'best before' date. Do not use WD40 anywhere near the switch!

            It is possible to dismantle the switch, the rocker lifts off after a bit of careful levering at the sides with a small screwdriver. In the ones I've rebuilt the rocking contact bar has bent slightly and no longer makes contact at one end or the other. Fixing is as easy as bending the bar back to shape. Re-assemble using a small smear of Vaseline and all will be well. The skills required are just manual dexterity and patience.

            Richad
            Last edited by mole42; 12 October 2016, 06:16.
            Richard
            Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

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              #7
              ^^ What Richard said

              I had the same issue and a bit of careful levering and polishing/cleaning sorted me out. Just go carefully and you'll be fine. If you do break the switch replacements are available I think and not quite in grille badge territory (but still ruddy expensive for a switch - see here).

              Ed.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 5chaiaday View Post
                ^^ What Richard said

                I had the same issue and a bit of careful levering and polishing/cleaning sorted me out. Just go carefully and you'll be fine. If you do break the switch replacements are available I think and not quite in grille badge territory (but still ruddy expensive for a switch - see here).

                Ed.
                As said in my previous post I spent ages trying to dis-assemble the switch as indicated without success - maybe the switch I have is an aftermarket replica of different construction?
                I would agree that one should not use WD40. I used an aerosol of Philips Service Kontakt (sic) Spray that I have had for ages. This Sprayfrom Maplin looks to be a modern equivalent. Whatever it did the job for me and the switch has worked perfectly for over one year now.

                Cheers

                H

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                  #9
                  Thanks for the advice folks. I cleaned the contacts, bought some switch spray from Maplins and then dried it out, and Bob's your uncle, it works again.

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