springs and shocks

[stagmyson]

Hi All
looking to change mine only because i feel new will be better.
As I'm hoping to re do my bodywork.
Is it best to go for the standard springs and shocks all round.
From the usual places

Thanks in advance

[seadog]

I recently changed all springs because the car was lying over (they all do that sir!) to the drivers side. Bought a kit of standard springs and rubber mounts. (from Rimmers as they worked out the cheapest)

You probably know that the original front struts were oil filled the damper sitting in said oil. The new dampers are sealed units that you fit into the cleaned out strut. Look out for rust where the lower spring support joins the strut tube - one of my struts was badly rusted so I had to source a good second hand pair.
I personally wanted to keep it all standard, but also couldn't justify the cost of fitting uprated springs and dampers, mine should last a good few years now and the ride is fine. Uprated dampers start from twice the price of a standard set, and I can't see the point of having adjustable dampers - not on my ordinarily driven Stag anyway. Some will disagree though.......

Also budget for new top suspension mounting bearings and sleeves and maybe thrust washers, all these extra things can increase the overall cost. The top bearings on mine were pigs to press out of the mounting as I only had a 4" vise.

One thing to look out for is spring compressor length, I got a set of Laser spring compressors (Halfords £29 but I only paid £17) then found that they weren't long enough and had to use a second set, the new springs had eight coils whereas the old ones only had seven coils which made all the difference. Just had to do the compression in two stages, that's all.

Rear springs only took me 45 minutes to change both, easy job and you can grease the rear drive shaft splines at the same time when they are at full stretch!

[Seaking]

Changed my rear springs for new ended up with positive camber car felt really unsettled horrible to drive fitted my old springs back image.jpgimage.jpg. Cheers Glenn

[seadog]

Changed my rear springs for new ended up with positive camber car felt really unsettled horrible to drive fitted my old springs back [ATTACH=CONFIG]38891[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]38892[/ATTACH]. Cheers Glenn

Wow! That's some difference in length you got there, my front o/s one was two inches shorter than the n/s which in turn was less than half an inch shorter than a new one, but my rears probably didn't need changing, only a gnats difference between sides and similar in length to the new ones.

Your new ones weren't uprated springs by any chance were they Glenn? I have read on the forum somewhere that you have to watch where you get your springs from because apparently so-called standard ones vary from supplier to supplier. Fortunately mine worked out ok.

[mike@thenook]

Not to be unkind to other suppliers I've found Ian at Monarch to be very helpful and knowledgeable on springs and he will always make sure you get a matched set at heights that suit your car.
There a number out there which are clearly too long and make the car look hideous let alone the handling problems you'd get.
No connection with Monarch...

[Seaking]

Wow! That's some difference in length you got there, my front o/s one was two inches shorter than the n/s which in turn was less than half an inch shorter than a new one, but my rears probably didn't need changing, only a gnats difference between sides and similar in length to the new ones.

Your new ones weren't uprated springs by any chance were they Glenn? I have read on the forum somewhere that you have to watch where you get your springs from because apparently so-called standard ones vary from supplier to supplier. Fortunately mine worked out ok.

My new ones are supposed to be standard length so it would suggest that my original springs are lowered ones

Cheers Glenn

[flying farmer]

I am using lowered uprated springs on both my Stags. One set were from Tony Hart which came with the necessary trailing arm brackets to correct the camber, and were quite expensive, the others were from Chris Witor.
These were cheaper but were only the springs. Looked identical to the TH items when fitted, and fortunately the left over brackets from my MK2 suited the MK1.

Totally transformed the ride and handling on both cars and standard shocks seem ok if the originals are good. Fitted KYB shocks from Paddocks to my MK1 as the originals were knackered, and I prefer these to the originals on the MK2.
Photo shows my MK1 to give a clue to the ride height.DSCF0525 (600 x 450).jpg

[seadog]

Found some pics, one of the car shortly after fitting them so you can see the ride height with standard new springs.

Other pics are: the four old springs, (l to r - n/s front, o/s front, n/s rear, o/s rear). The rust and hole in the top of the front o/s strut. Front o/s spring against a new one.



Ride Height.JPGOld Springs ns os.jpgStrut hole.JPGFront os old and new.JPG

[Paul Kelley]

Nice photo Flying Farmer. Can I ask details about your minilites, e.g. size, supplier, approx cost. Also tyre size and profile used.
Many thanks
Paul
ps got my Stag well and truly splattered yesterday on farming back roads in Wensleydale as doing a project currently in Hawes.

[mike@thenook]

with the necessary trailing arm brackets to correct the camber, and were quite expensive,

I don't think TH does his kit anymore (I had this originally too) but Monarch do new adjustable brackets albeit not cheap..
Car looks so in proportion Neil - lovely!

[jakesmig]

I changed my old springs for progressive - rate ones from Monarch and noticed a huge improvement in ride and road holding. No idea how old the previous springs.

[flying farmer]

Nice photo Flying Farmer. Can I ask details about your minilites, e.g. size, supplier, approx cost. Also tyre size and profile used.
Many thanks
Paul
ps got my Stag well and truly splattered yesterday on farming back roads in Wensleydale as doing a project currently in Hawes.

The wheels are 6x15 with 195 / 65 x 15 tyres. I originally got them for my TR at the TR register national weekend,,cant remember what I payed for them but there was a substantial show discount. After a few years the powder coat started peeling off (they were originally all silver in colour), so I stripped them etch primed then painted them black and silver.

I have a similar set on my other Stag but with 195/60 x 15 tyres. These were a very tight fit in the rear arches but cleared the fronts. This car originally had 5.5x15 rims with 195/65x15 tyres which cleared the rear arches ok but caught on the front arches when on full steering lock.
The critical area appears to be diameter on the front but offset on the rear.
As I knew I was going to be fitting the ex TR minilites to the Stag I took the opportunity to make sure I got the necessary clearance before I painted the car!

One extra thing to be aware of.... there are different styles of minilite replica, some have a dip around the edge of the rim where the balance weights would sit like on the original alloys, and some have a smooth profile with no dip.
If you like the ones with the shiny lacquered rims like I do, within a year or two the damp will be under the lacquer and it will be peeling off and looking a mess. At this point I realised the smooth ones are very easy to clean back to bare alloy then polish, probably takes a third of the time of the other style, and easier to keep clean in the future.

If I buy any more I will certainly look for the easy to maintain ones, just can't remember what make they are but I got them from the spares day at Stoneleigh
Neil

[Paul Kelley]

Hi Neil,
Many thanks for all the extra info above, which I'll take into account before just leaping in. As ever, your know-how is very much appreciated by myself and others.
PK