Biting the bullet

[Carboy0]

It seems that the split in the radiator neck not long after I bought the car did more damage than I first appreciated and now I have the dreaded HGF, from what I can tell on the left hand cylinder bank, judging by the Mayo under the oil filler cap and the pressurisation of the header Stagweber tank.

I reckon that I can cope with a head removal/skim/replacement etc on the drive with the engine in the car on the drive. I have used a local engineer before and trust them for the head skim and I can rebuild them myself. T&L Engineering in Bedford http://vintage-engine.net/tablet/pages.php?id=18347

My question is whether, if I find that the timing chain wheels and chain need changing, can I do that without taking the engine out, if I strip out the rad etc?

If the engine has to come out then I will use a garage to do it. Does anyone have any recommendations of trusted garages in the North Beds area?

[marshman]

It seems that the split in the radiator not long after I bought the car did more damage than I first appreciate and now I have the dreaded HGF, from what I can tell on the left hand cylinder bank, judging by the Mayo under the oil filler cap and the pressurisation of the header Stagweber tank.

I reckon that I can cope with a head removal/skim/replacement etc on the drive with the engine in the car on the drive. I have used a local engineer before and trust them for the head skim and I can rebuild them myself. T&L Engineering in Bedford http://vintage-engine.net/tablet/pages.php?id=18347


My question is whether, if I find that the timing chain wheels and chain need changing, can I do that without taking the engine out, if I strip out the rad etc?

If the engine has to come out then I will use a garage to do it. Does anyone have any recommendations of trusted garages in the North Beds area?

Yes it is all easily doable with the engine in the car. Worst bits if the timing cover has to come off is a) crank pulley bolt [I usually use a large pair of stilsons to grip the pulley) and b) getting underneath to release the front sump bolts that go into the timing cover. and finally c) releasing the exhaust down pipes from the manifold - access to drivers side is worst with standard exhaust. You can even remove the jackshaft to check the condition of the front bearing and drive gears,

Only unknown is whether or not the head bolts and studs (usually studs) will play ball and come out nicely.

Roger