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    Converting Stag to Overdrive, Using TR6 box

    I am in the process of converting a Stag non-OD into a Stag J type OD and have researched this so wanted to get it down for myself and in case it helps others. Corrections gladly received! Maybe a moderator would consider this for the Tech section? its easier to edit it to look good here!


    To convert a Box to Overdrive a few things are needed.
    An Overdrive, an OD mainshaft, the Adaptor plate, Top cover with switches and the longer Release bearing carrier. You may want to change the speedo gearing as the TR6 is different.If the OD was not from a Triumph, e.g. Volvo you may need an Output flange. You will need to work out the rear gearbox mounting as well. Finally the exhaust downpipes are different for the J type. I think thats all!

    There are a couple of ways to do this.
    1. Use the TR6 OD box to rebuild a 4 speed Stag box. Definitely the best option, especially the post late 73 TR6 Box as they have at least some common parts. As long as its a good Stag box, the parts you add from the TR6 to make it Overdrive are the same.
    2. If you have a Stag gearbox, buy the parts.. Both types of Mainshafts and adaptor plates are available, you just need to get the Overdrive and top cover (or convert yours - see the next post..)
    3. Use a TR6 OD box, you only need to swap out the input shaft and possibly the Constant gear (they are a matched pair) but neither of the Stag input shafts are available new. But remember you are using weaker components from the TR6, it may not be strong enough.(see comments below)



    Getting the right TR6 Donor OD gearbox.

    The first thing to look for in a donor TR6 OD Box is the "imperial" or "metric" mainshaft. This refers to the bearing between the input shaft and mainshaft the imperial mainshaft/input shaft has a pressed in bearing, metric has an open cage bearing..
    ALL Stags are Metric so you must get a TR6 metric box to provide the Overdrive mainshaft as the stag input shafts you must use are Metric. No problem for J type they are all metric but for A type you need to get TR6 gearbox serial# CD20282-CD21768 which is where the metric mainshaft came in. Keep in mind that the gearsets in these boxes are different to the Stags.

    The next consideration is the bushings.
    Before late 73, TR6 boxes had Bronze bushings After that the gears and steel bushings are the same as the Late Stag boxes (after LD7889). I have not pinned down a TR6 Gearbox number for that change except Commission# CF12500 and CR5000 or "late 73". The earlier Stag boxes (before LD7889) have a Stag only 2nd gear on the mainshaft with non-tophat steel bush and thinner spacer. After that The Stag box has the same second gear as the post 73 TR6 box with a steel Top hat type bushing and thicker spacer with a grove for a ballbearing that sits in the mainshaft. This prevents the spacer spinning. The 2 types of steel 2nd gear Bushings are not interchangeable, i.e they need the correct 2nd gear, but with the correct bushing/gear either can be used, as both use the same mainshaft. The only problem may be when you try to use a tophat type bushing on an older mainshaft without a ball bearing in the mainshaft.

    Drew confirmed that there is indeed a steel tophat and ball bearing in the mainshaft of a late Stag box.
    The ball bearing is not shown in the Rimmer parts listing or the factory part listing. However the factory part listing DOES show the part number for the thicker spacer with groove for the ball bearing and the later top hat type bushing with a groove, whilst Rimmer does not.




    On the left is the earlier type stag "non-tophat steel bearing" on the right the later Stag and post late73 TR steel tophat bearing. The gears are different in that the recess at the synchroniser end is deeper in the tophat type to account for the thicker spacer.




    On the left the shaft at the top has the ballbearing for the tophat type spacer, on the right is the tophat type spacer showing the grove.


    The final thing is the layshaft. The Stag has a stronger Layshaft that is thicker at the 1st gear end and uses double cage bearings there as well. It also has roller thrust bearings which are said to be stronger. This also means you cannot put Stag internals into a TR6 casing or visa versa, unless you want to get into messing with the rear layshaft hole. Even with the different layshafts TR6/Stag leygears will fit either.



    Doing the conversion

    The big difference between a Stag and TR6 box is the input shaft. With the correct input shaft any metric TR6 box can be pressed into service in a Stag. Having said that the Stag box from the start was built stronger, especially the Leyshaft and thrusts. All Stags had steel gear bushings (but there were 2 types for the second gear) whereas the TR6 boxes used bronze bushings until late 73. (The TR6 Bronze top hat bushing on second gear is famous for breaking) There are 2 types of Stag Input shaft, the earliest type (Below LD5818) has a different Helix angle on the gear, so it needs to be matched to the constant gear on the leyshaft. Either pair will work but keep in mind they should really be a matched pair as different wear patterns can cause noise.
    Note:- TR6 input shafts changed the helix as well. Gearbox serial# CD20282-CD21768 (A type?) should have the earlier helix angle. CD21769 and up should be the later helix angle.



    In the pictures above the left shaft is an early type stag input shaft, the right a late TR6. note the extra length of the Stag shaft and the slightly different gear Helix used in both boxes.




    If you are just converting a TR6 OD box and are using it whole (option 3) then all that is needed is to drop the leyshaft, remove the input shaft and install a helix matching stag input shaft and use the longer Release bearing carrier.. And hope its strong enough

    For the other options You need to dis-assemble the Stag gearbox, and rebuild it on the shorter OD Mainshaft. (Note:- Aside from the input shaft the post late 73 TR6 gearbox seems to have all the same gears as the later Stags)

    Please correct any glaring errors/omissions
    Last edited by trunt; 14 December 2016, 21:54.
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    #2
    More Considerations

    The rear gearbox mounting will be the next challenge. The TR6 A type OD has different (vertical) mounting points so you will probably have to fabricate something. Also the solenoid may point a different way?? The exhaust downpipes of the A type is the same as the BW35 and 4 speed boxes. Not sure on Volvo etc.
    The J type in the Stag has its own type of rear mounting it drops deeper than the standard and uses cotton reel type rubber mounts. But at least the threads for the horizontal studs are there on the TR OD's Not sure on other makes. The exhaust downpipes for the J type is different, I think to clear that deeper mounting.


    The TR6 J type has different speedometer drive ratios. The Stag has a 3:1 ratio. You will probably need to sort that out. For J-type There are 5,6,7,8 "Start" drives on the output shaft of the OD which drive 15-20 tooth gears. The "starts refer to the number of coil starts on the drive. You can actually look down the hole for the speedo gear at them and count them as you do one complete revolution of the output shaft. The ratio is found by dividing the number of teeth on the drive gear by the number of starts. So the standard stag OD had 15 teeth/5 starts. You could also use 18 teeth/6 starts. Tr6 OD's can have 8 start or the real late ones have 7 start, so would need a 24 or 21 tooth ger, but I have not found those anywhere. The wheel/tyre size will have an effect as well.

    EDIT:- there is apparently a number stamped on the rear lug that shows the number of "starts" fitted, in my case its a 7


    The way to work out the speedo gearing is: wheel turns per mile X diff ratio / speedo gear ratio = speedo turns per mile
    or:- 800x3.7/3=986 - which gets pretty near the Stag speedo which is 1000 tpm.

    In my case the OD had a 7 start and 20 teeth, with 195/70 wheels it comes out at 1050 --Near enough.--


    The TR6 J type overdrive seems to have a lower operating pressure than a Stag or Dolomite, wise heads say that should not be a problem. I would hazard a guess that is unless you have a lot more power or there is some weakness there.


    The TR6 A type seems to have the same speedo drive gears as the Stag, the drive gear is part of the output shaft and both TR6 and stag show 15 tooth gears. Maybe there was a speedometer change on the TR6 with J-type?



    The topcover needs switches to enable the Overdrive in e.g 3/4th gear only for J type. Early ones had the switches on the circular castings you see on top, later ones had the 3/4the gear switch in the center of the cover just in front of the gearstick. Either will work. If there is one with your donor you are set, if not then this link shows a way to convert a non OD one. I will be trying this later!
    Buckeye Triumphs Cover Modifications for OD switches.

    Here are some good places to look for info.

    Rimmer Bros
    Factory parts manual
    Overdrive repairs in Sheffield

    Buckeye Triumphs are a great place to start.
    Buckeye Triumphs J type Info
    Buckeye Triumphs A type Info
    Buckeye Triumphs Gearbox rebuild

    Just found this, it has more information on Volvo units that may be useful.

    Last edited by trunt; 5 September 2018, 03:58.
    Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

    www.terryhunt.co.uk

    Comment


      #3
      I Just finished the Gearbox, Spun it up and OD clicked in. I may check pressures when I can work out a gauge.

      Adding the new switch went well, I just need to wait a year or two to have a body worth putting it in!!
      Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

      www.terryhunt.co.uk

      Comment


        #4
        i have recently had a TR6 gearbox time proofed as such,i.e taken apart and anything needed doing done. The gearbox specialist did say that the Stag gearbox was a lot stronger than the TR6 and as such i would be wary of putting too many tr6 bits into a Stag. I personally know nothing about gearboxes but am just passing on a morsel of info i have, good luck with your rebuild .
        Len

        Comment


          #5
          I would only add that the TR gearbox isn't strong enough for the TR let alone the Stag. I have had two TRs and five gearboxes on a total mileage of about 40000. The gearboxes each car finished with were built by Tony Lindsey-Dean and incorporated a lot of mods and a massively strengthened lay shaft and doubled up bearing.

          I had my first failed gearbox rebuilt by a well known TR specialist in 1995 with a six month warranty and it failed after six months and four days and 6000 miles.

          I'm not sure if Tony is still active. He was very knowledgeable about the marque and TRs especially and he always said the Stag box was massively better than the TR.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by TR5convalescent View Post
            I would only add that the TR gearbox isn't strong enough for the TR let alone the Stag. I have had two TRs and five gearboxes on a total mileage of about 40000. The gearboxes each car finished with were built by Tony Lindsey-Dean and incorporated a lot of mods and a massively strengthened lay shaft and doubled up bearing.

            I had my first failed gearbox rebuilt by a well known TR specialist in 1995 with a six month warranty and it failed after six months and four days and 6000 miles.

            I'm not sure if Tony is still active. He was very knowledgeable about the marque and TRs especially and he always said the Stag box was massively better than the TR.
            WOW.. Perhaps you were burned by the sub standard layshafts that were around a few years ago?? The two TR boxes I built had no such problems but I made sure I had NOS layshafts. EDIT hold on I was messing with a pathetic USA carb TR250 (though modified) you probably were in a manly PI!

            Anyways, as Mine is a Stag box I should be OK, like I said its best to start with a Stag box and the TR Overdrive components needed to convert it are the same.

            I will edit the post to reflect the comments.
            Last edited by trunt; 2 December 2016, 23:04.
            Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

            www.terryhunt.co.uk

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by trunt View Post
              WOW.. Perhaps you were burned by the sub standard layshafts that were around a few years ago?? The two TR boxes I built had no such problems but I made sure I had NOS layshafts. EDIT hold on I was messing with a pathetic USA carb TR250 (though modified) you probably were in a manly PI!

              Anyways, as Mine is a Stag box I should be OK, like I said its best to start with a Stag box and the TR Overdrive components needed to convert it are the same.

              I will edit the post to reflect the comments.
              Hi Terry thanks for coming back. I rather ungraciously forgot to add (at the end of my post) a thank you for yours which is a valuable contribution to the knowledge base here.

              I didn't know there were duff lay shafts. When Tony stripped my first reconditioned gearbox in front of me he made two piles of parts. The vanishingly small one was the reusable stuff and the enormous pile was, as he said, scrap. He then added that there was no way that the wear on the scrap pile had occurred in 6000 miles!


              Your point about the PI might be true. I met loads of TR6 drivers who had gearbox failure but never a 4 or 4A driver. I suspect that is why Triumph uprated the Stag unit. That extra 35 - 40 BHP on the PI cars makes a difference!

              Good luck with your project. Hope you'll keep us all updated.

              David
              Last edited by TR5convalescent; 3 December 2016, 10:59. Reason: Forgot to sign it

              Comment


                #8
                I finally found Drews cracking post on his restoration and he covered some of this stuff on page 99

                Follow the progress of a major restoration, look at a big overhaul task, see how to modify a Stag


                So edited it with that information.
                Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                www.terryhunt.co.uk

                Comment

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