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    Mk2 Airbox vacuum motor

    Anyone know where I can get a working one from? I've tried the main suppliers with no luck. Are they fitted to any other vehicle? The guy at LD Spares thinks they might be fitted to some American cars as part of their emission control but it is knowing what to look for. Any suggestions? Has anyone tried repairing one?

    I checked mine about a year ago and it worked okay and I'm just refurbishing and painting the airbox as part of a total rebuild. The thermic sensor works okay but the vacuum motor doesn't move when sucked.

    I noticed in some earlier theads about fitting the take-off from the original cast manifold onto tubular manifolds - I've done this by trimming the original take-off and securing this to the tubular manifolds with stainless steel jubilee clips. It is a very tight to the chassis rail but it does fit and is very effective in diverting hot air when the car is cold.

    #2
    Moved from Technical section
    Brian

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Steve,
      I'm doing just the same thing at the moment.My thermic sensor is well out of calibration,I spent all afternoon blowing bubbles into a jug of hot water and one of cold water and came to the conclusion that no matter how I adjusted it ,the range was too far out(between opening and closing)Yes I did try to set it to close the valve at 68 deg F,so I've got an old iron in bits to try the bi-metallic strip from that.
      Also my vacuum motor doesn't work either.
      The trouble is,even if I can get one,it would probably be 40 odd years old anyway..so I'll probably take that apart and attempt to replace the perished diaphragm.Maybe an air pressure switch diaphragm (the type that are fitted to central heating boilers)could work as a replacement.
      Has anyone had one of these in bits?are they made of leather,rubber or neoprene?

      The reason I went down this path was- 'difficult starting' ,after leaving a hot engine for half an hour---I was putting this down to the amount of ethanol in petrol,causing fuel to evaporate more readily.Until I found that the carbs were being fed hot air ,from the exhaust,even when hot,,,so for now I have removed the flexy pipe,which seems to have improved the hot starting problem,in fact when I took it for a blast,the engine seemed to be running cooler.
      This will keep me busy over Winter ,I'm sure.
      Ken.

      Comment


        #5
        The trouble is,even if I can get one,it would probably be 40 odd years old anyway..so I'll probably take that apart and attempt to replace the perished diaphragm.Maybe an air pressure switch diaphragm (the type that are fitted to central heating boilers)could work as a replacement.
        Has anyone had one of these in bits?are they made of leather,rubber or neoprene?
        Good question. Mine doesn't work either. For me it's not the fact of running the Stag with less pollution until the engine has warmed up but I use the Stag in early spring and late autumn when the temperatures are aroung zero to 10 degr. And I know she is running much better with warm air comming from the exhaust. BTW I'm thinking about an electric thermo switch (set to 20 degr. C) and a solenoid actuator for the air flap.

        Klaus

        Comment


          #6
          Good suggestions Terry,some of those look really similar.

          That's a good idea Klaus,that would do away with the thermic sensor,all we need to do is hide it within the housing so it still looks original.
          I still take mine out on dry days in the Winter,so would like it to work.
          Ken.

          Comment


            #7
            FWIW, two years and 9600 miles ago I fitted stainless tubular manifolds. These don't have the warm air take-off, so effectively the thermic sensor, etc. are redundant. I haven't noticed any discernible change in starting (hot or cold) or warm-up, so does it really matter whether the system works? And yes, I do drive it in the Winter.
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

            Comment


              #8
              I know what your'e saying Dave,and it's not very important,it's just that I'd like it to work ,if it's possible.

              I was also wandering if a wax stat could do the job of opening and closing the flap.
              Ken.

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by Klaus Schlueter View Post
                I'm thinking about an electric thermo switch (set to 20 degr. C) and a solenoid actuator for the air flap.Klaus
                nice idea..

                I'm wondering if I can do a manual setting, a spring or something? Its so warm here that it would not need heat April-October, winter would need some though.. I could just switch it over for the winter..

                Terry
                Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                www.terryhunt.co.uk

                Comment


                  #10
                  I just thought I'd update the people that are interested-
                  I took a chance and found that the thermic sensor is the same as one from a Metro,and is still available new-
                  Allcarpartsfast -

                  Cart Items SKU Qty Item Price Item Total
                  MG Rover PHT10001 SENSING UNIT-ATC
                  PHT10001 1 £1.90 GBP £1.90 GBP
                  MG Rover RTC311A CLIP
                  RTC311A 1 £0.27 GBP £0.27 GBP
                  MG Rover UAM1828 - SEAL
                  UAM1828 1 £0.27 GBP £0.27 GBP
                  The new unit looks very similar but one of the ports wasn't drilled out,easy job.Also even though shown the cork seal wasn't available,but the clip was available.
                  The Vacuum motor can be taken apart and new diaphragm rubber was from a boiler-see photos,part no'etc,,although I had to trim a couple of mm off around the edge ,as I didn't find one of the correct diameter.
                  The hook couldn't be re-used,so I used a longer than normal(house 240v socket/light switch housing)screw,and carefully bent it at the end ,then cut off the excess.
                  Tried it all out this afternoon and it works!
                  Ken
                  IMG_1165.JPGIMG_1168.JPGIMG_1211.JPGIMG_1212.JPGIMG_1213.JPG

                  Comment


                    #11
                    More photos
                    ]39357[/ATTACH]IMG_1205.JPGIMG_1206.JPGIMG_1208.JPGIMG_1209.JPG
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by v8ken; 7 December 2016, 19:38.

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Superb information - thanks a lot!

                      Drew
                      The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137

                      Comment


                        #13
                        Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
                        Superb information - thanks a lot!

                        Drew
                        X2

                        Something to do on the cold winter nights..


                        Terry
                        Terry Hunt, Wilmington Delaware

                        www.terryhunt.co.uk

                        Comment


                          #14
                          I have the tubular extractor manifolds and with some minor trimming of the original shroud and some stainless steel jubilee clips to hold it in place, I was able to re-use the hot air intake.

                          I did notice a change when it wasn't fitted with slower warn-up and a higher fuel consumption. Refitting the intake has solved this and got my consumption back up to 30mpg

                          Comment


                            #15
                            I think it is better for working correctly,as mine was stuck in the open position,strange that,as I would have thought it would have 'faulted' to the closed position.The faulty thermic sensor would have held it open(when engine running)but with a split and perished diaphragm,I don't know how it managed it,although saying that ,there was some corrosion inside.
                            Anyway -puzzle solved,,just waiting for the hot weather again,to see if it has helped the 'hot starting'/fuel evaporation issue.
                            Ken.

                            Comment

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