Help.... brake servo change

[John100]

Having discovered that my master cylinder and servo were conspiring to reduce my stopping power I've decided to replace both.

I procured some replacement parts from Robsport who were very helpful and remarkably quick.

So here i am, on a Friday night with a pile of fasteners trying to figure out how to get the servo out.... master cylinder is off, servo bolts are all out, but the inner wing seems to be getting in the way.

I'm now removing the clutch cylinder but it doesn't look good....

Has anyone else had this problem and know how to solve it?

Cheers to all you lucky ones enjoying a pint of ale!!

John

[Ian F]

John

Everyone else must be in the pub, so......
I've removed mine to remove and replace the master cylinder and yes its a fiddle but it does come out without removing the clutch master cylinder.
Is it loose and can you move it around, or is it stuck/sealed to the bulkhead to prevent water ingress?
If stuck, give it a solid whack to break the seal, if loose, you will just have to fiddle around until you can squeeze it out. Mine came out with Master cylinder attached so it is feasible.

Hope you succeed.
Ian F

[tjk]

HI
I seem to remember removing clutch master cylinder to replace my servo, very awkward job. If all 4 nuts are off servo nothing else is holding it apart from pedal connection .

Tim

[John100]

Thanks Ian and Tim... it was all loose and disconnected but in the end i gave up and remove the clutch cylinder.
Its all out now, but i have to do some paint repairs where the leaked brake fluid has settled .

Thanks again
John

[DJT]

Hi,

I've done this job very recently using a recon servo and new m/cyl from Robsports. The only difference being that mine is an auto, so doesn't have the clutch m/cyl to contend with. But I don't recall having to remove this item when I did the same job on my first Stag which was a MOD.

As long as you have removed the clevis pin from the brake pedal and all the nuts from inside the car, and unstuck it from the bulkhead, then it should come out ok.

There have been many reports on here about difficulties bleeding the system after fitting the new m/cyl. In my case, I mounted the m/cyl in the bench vice and bled it by putting a small amount of fluid in the reservoir and moving the piston back and forth until fluid comes out the outlets. It takes a while, but is worth making sure all the air is out before fitting.

Bleeding the brakes is straightforward, but be aware that the PDWA can be displaced if not careful and can be tricky to centralise again afterwards. I made a useful little tool to replace the PDWA switch during bleeding, which keeps the shuttle centralised.

[Rubce]

Hi,

. I made a useful little tool to replace the PDWA switch during bleeding, which keeps the shuttle centralised.

Hi Dave

I have previously used a flat bladed scewdriver for that job. I would be interested in seeing a photo of your homemade tool

Regards

Bruce

[DJT]

There is a photo in my albums, Bruce. Nothing fancy. I think I used one end of an old cylinder head stud.

http://socforum.com/forum/album.php?albumid=59&attachmentid=11425

Others have copied the idea, but made much more professional looking items....

[Rubce]

Hi Dave

So it is, thanks! There are also some other very interesting photos in your albums.

Regards

Bruce

[DJT]

Hi Dave

So it is, thanks! There are also some other very interesting photos in your albums.

Regards

Bruce

I'd forgotten some of those were still there. I'll remove the ones showing the original ZF speedo conversion as that is no longer fitted. Got fed up trying to get it calibrated reliably throughout the range and now have a proper electronic speedo fitted which is excellent.