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    Headlight Relays

    Hi All, To improve lighting and take load off of components I intend to install relays. I know I need to take fused heavy wires from the battery. My question is do I fit 2 relays one for each circuit (dip and main beam) or 4 relays one for each light and input wire. Also I intend to fit on front nearside panel so wires are as short as possible. Does any one know of a suitable case they can be installed in? This to protect from damp and look tidier. Finally do I need to reduce fuse rating for the lights at the original fuse box.
    Thank you
    Ray

    #2
    Hi Ray, just done this mod and i have used 2 relays one for dip and one for mains. i tested the draw and it was about 4.8A for each dip so went for 7.5A fuses and the mains pulled about 9.5A per side with a 15A peak when turned on but this didn't blow a 10A fuse so i went for 15A on the mains. The original wires and switch now have next to nothing going through them so you can drop them down a lot
    The observant of you will notice although my holder says 7.5A ( which im waiting for) i have used red 10A for now on the dips. I fed each relay with its own heavy duty cable straight off the main terminal block next to the battery. Relays are 40A. each lamp has its own 2mm2 cable straight from the fuse.

    20170102_084612_001 (450x800).jpg
    Last edited by Stagdad; 3 January 2017, 20:48.

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      #3
      Mine are in a similar place to those, but I don't have the extra fuses.
      I have four relays for spotlights, headlamps, dip beam and fan, using separate fused supplies for each from the battery.
      Last edited by mole42; 3 January 2017, 21:00. Reason: Spelling
      Richard
      Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, Mo/d.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Ray,

        Good new year to you. What you need to do depends on what level of lighting you are going for.

        Operationaly, the dip switch on the column has the outer lights switching dip beam, when you move the switch to Mains, the outer lights remain on dip and the inner lights switch on, giving you 4 lit lamps, 2 at dip power 2 at main power. If you install alternative bulbs with both dip and main fillaments in each lamp, and wire them into the switch, you will have 4 dip beam + 4 main beam filaments lit when you switch on main beam. this will tend to overheat the bulbs with the risk of increased regular failures.

        The column switch can be easily modified to switch off the dip beam when the switch is positioned on main beam, if you can solder electrical joints it will take you about an hour and will leave you with a switch that will meet your requirements. This modification works for both Mk1 & Mk2 switches.

        20160828_122252.jpg20160828_122322.jpg20160828_123746.jpg20160828_123904.jpg20160828_125434.jpg

        Picture 1 shows the underside of the switch. The blue on the LHS comes from the light switch and carries 12 volts. The blue / white on the RHS is the feed to the main beam.

        Picture 2 shows the blue feed cable, and the brass stump to its right is live when the switch is at dip, but shows no voltage when the switch is put to main.

        Picture 3 shows the blue cable, A from the column switch as in 1 & 2, B comes from the light switch, and C goes to the loom plug to feed the dip beam filaments in the lamps.

        Picture 4, D remains on the column switch, E remains on the light switch, the F cable end is joined by an additional length of wire to the brass stump as seen in picture 2.

        Picture 5 indicates what has been done in picture 4, although I have carried out other wiring alterations during my recent restoration which is why the blue cable (D in picture 4) has been changed to white. DO NOT REMOVE THE BLUE CABLE FROM THE COLUMN SWITCH. THE ONLY ALTERATION TO THE EXISTING CABLE IS CUTTING AT THE JOINT TO LEAVE F PARTED FROM D/E.

        This modification will switch off your outer lamps when you engage the main beam.

        Ran out of battery, will now continue.

        I have 4 relays fitted, 2 for mains (inner and outer) and 2 for dips, (inner and outer), only on the basis that if something short circuits only 1 relay will go out, assuming the problem isn't in the low amp switching circuit. 1 30Amp fuse will do all the mains and another will do all the dips if that is what you need

        Mine is switched to operate all 4 on mains and dip has a switch which controls the inner lamps so that I can operate 2 outer dips alone or all 4 on dip. Because of the switch modification above, dip no longer stays on when main is engaged.

        John.
        Last edited by jakesmig; 3 January 2017, 21:19.
        Your wife is right, size matters. 3.9RV8

        Comment


          #5
          This might explain why I needed to upgrade my alternator on my 2 Stags, I never thought about the dip beams staying on with the main beams.
          I have fitted Dolomite head lamps as they have the twin filament bulbs, all connected with relays.
          I think I know what I am going to be doing this weekend!
          Neil
          Neil
          TV8, efi, fast road cams and home built manifolds. 246bhp 220lbft torque

          Comment


            #6
            Here's ow I did mine.


            Alan
            sigpic 1977 TV8, Pimento,ZF Autobox, BMW back end.
            www.grampianstags.net, www.gvrs.net

            Comment


              #7
              Thank you all for taking the time to share your way of improving the lighting. I was not going to change any bulbs, but after reading your replies I will fit H4`s to the outers and not have dip on at all when on main beam.
              ray

              Comment

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