I’ve just fitted an external, electric water pump with electric fan and digital controller to my Stag and post my experiences in the hope that it can assist anyone who is considering doing the same.
Firstly, why did I choose to fit an EEWP? I believe that the position of the standard mechanical pump is too high in the system which, in the event of coolant loss, leads to early loss of circulation leading to potential HGF or even worse. To mitigate this I fitted a header tank with level warning buzzer which has served its purpose for 4 years.
Also, I have been aware of the potential for the pump/jackshaft drive to seize resulting in catastrophic engine damage. I therefore resolved that in the event that I should need to remove the inlet manifold I would replace the standard pump with an EEWP.
Last month I diagnosed HGF and therefore included a Davies Craig EWP115 Pump, digital controller and electric fan to the shopping list in addition to those parts I needed to replace the head gasket.
Let me start with what I would do differently if I could turn back the clock.
1. Concerning the positioning of the EEWP, I elected to fit it as close to the bottom radiator outlet as possible in the belief that this would provide the shortest route to the water pump housing with the minimum number of hose connections and potential for leaks. This necessitated the repositioning of the alternator to make space.
The alternative was to position the EEWP where the original expansion tank was by running a connection across the bottom of the rad and using a route of pipes which, to my mind, resembled the beginning of a Monty Python programme.
I recommend the MP route thereby saving a combined £100 on alternator relocation bracket and extended wiring loom. Also in removal and relocation of the alternator I experienced complications in different bolt lengths and need to add spacers in the operation.
2. I plumbed in the EEWP to the rad only to find that I was unable to feed the electric fan assembly through the front grill. So fit the electric fan before the radiator.
Plumbing in the EEWP
Having chosen the position of the EEWP as close as possible to the bottom rad outlet, I bought a top hose for a 1997 LR Defender as this provides the 2 different diameters with a 90 degree bend to connect the bottom rad outlet to the DC pump. The outlet from the pump was then connected to the bottom of a sawn off existing s/s tube which I knurled to provide a good grip and connected using the adaptor sleeves supplied with the DC kit.
In the event, I had to trim the Defender hose to fit the pump within the gap between the rad and the front anti roll bar and ended up needing to use an adaptor sleeve for the rad connection.
The installation is neat with the minimum number of connections. Also, the original P bracket on the s/s pipe can be connected, using a half inch spacer, to the o/s bolt holding the timing quadrant. This holds the pipe assembly away from the crank pulley.
If you choose to go the N/S route, a very detailed diagram and cutting list can be viewed, courtesy of Paul Boath (LD334 of the SOC. Paul kindly e- mailed me the documents which are attached.
Having removed the water pump impeller and replaced with a bung and removed the thermostat, the rest of the plumbing is straight forward by following the DC instructions. It involves cutting the standard top hose and inserting an adaptor for fitting the temp sensor and blanking off the by-pass hose. This I achieved by fitting a ball bearing of a suitable size into the standard by-pass hose. The ball bearing should be of a size to be a snug fit in the pipe and too big to pass the metal connectors.
Fitting the digital controller
Not wanting anything too modern to spoil the 70s ambience of the Stag interior, I elected to site the digital controller in the glovebox.
From there, I was able to thread the 5 wires, 1 at a time, through an existing aperture in the glovebox down to the passenger foot well. From there, I threaded the wires through the firewall into the engine compartment. Conveniently, there is a large enough hole, perfectly positioned directly under where the main loom passes from the relay board. This hole is blanked by a large grommet which I prised out, modified and refitted.
With a watertight system, I connected the pump direct to the battery and let it run for 10 mins to bleed the system. Then I reconnected it via the relay. The relay was not included in the DC kit but I bought a suitable relay from Halfords and located it with a nut and bolt using an existing hole in the o/s/f inner wing close to the battery. This enabled the shortest route for wires and avoided having to drill holes in my Stag.
To tidy up the wiring from the bulkhead to the pump, temp sensor and relay I used flexible split plastic pipe (see photo) and routed it under the relocated alternator in front of the rad.
After a final check to ensure that the pipes and wires were not too close to pulleys, belts or exhaust manifolds I fired her up and, on fast tickover, watched the temp gauge climb to 2/3 when the electric fan kicked in and brought it down to mid-way.
I was dismayed to see white exhaust smoke/steam and mayo on the oil filler cap and thought that my first attempt to fit head and inlet manifold gaskets had been a failure.
Despondent, I needed to talk someone, so I called Steve Sparrow (Stagongas) who had kindly let me visit to take photos of his EEWP installation last year. I’m glad I called Steve because he explained that during the months of inactivity, condensation will have built up in the crankcase and exhaust system and was the likely cause of the steam and mayo and a good run would most likely dry the system out.
Encouraged, I took the Stag on a 30 mile run and the exhaust and crankcase are clear. Thanks Steve!!
I have driven 50 miles over 3 days and re-torqued the heads down to 55ftlb. I was surprised that the head nuts and bolts turned a further 60 degrees.
As the weather improves, I’ll be taking more and longer drives in the Stag to build confidence in the work I’ve done and enjoy the Stag experience again.
2016-11-14 15.15.43.jpg2016-11-14 15.16.13.jpg2017-02-15 14.17.19.jpg2017-02-15 14.17.25.jpg2016-10-16 16.31.15.jpg
Firstly, why did I choose to fit an EEWP? I believe that the position of the standard mechanical pump is too high in the system which, in the event of coolant loss, leads to early loss of circulation leading to potential HGF or even worse. To mitigate this I fitted a header tank with level warning buzzer which has served its purpose for 4 years.
Also, I have been aware of the potential for the pump/jackshaft drive to seize resulting in catastrophic engine damage. I therefore resolved that in the event that I should need to remove the inlet manifold I would replace the standard pump with an EEWP.
Last month I diagnosed HGF and therefore included a Davies Craig EWP115 Pump, digital controller and electric fan to the shopping list in addition to those parts I needed to replace the head gasket.
Let me start with what I would do differently if I could turn back the clock.
1. Concerning the positioning of the EEWP, I elected to fit it as close to the bottom radiator outlet as possible in the belief that this would provide the shortest route to the water pump housing with the minimum number of hose connections and potential for leaks. This necessitated the repositioning of the alternator to make space.
The alternative was to position the EEWP where the original expansion tank was by running a connection across the bottom of the rad and using a route of pipes which, to my mind, resembled the beginning of a Monty Python programme.
I recommend the MP route thereby saving a combined £100 on alternator relocation bracket and extended wiring loom. Also in removal and relocation of the alternator I experienced complications in different bolt lengths and need to add spacers in the operation.
2. I plumbed in the EEWP to the rad only to find that I was unable to feed the electric fan assembly through the front grill. So fit the electric fan before the radiator.
Plumbing in the EEWP
Having chosen the position of the EEWP as close as possible to the bottom rad outlet, I bought a top hose for a 1997 LR Defender as this provides the 2 different diameters with a 90 degree bend to connect the bottom rad outlet to the DC pump. The outlet from the pump was then connected to the bottom of a sawn off existing s/s tube which I knurled to provide a good grip and connected using the adaptor sleeves supplied with the DC kit.
In the event, I had to trim the Defender hose to fit the pump within the gap between the rad and the front anti roll bar and ended up needing to use an adaptor sleeve for the rad connection.
The installation is neat with the minimum number of connections. Also, the original P bracket on the s/s pipe can be connected, using a half inch spacer, to the o/s bolt holding the timing quadrant. This holds the pipe assembly away from the crank pulley.
If you choose to go the N/S route, a very detailed diagram and cutting list can be viewed, courtesy of Paul Boath (LD334 of the SOC. Paul kindly e- mailed me the documents which are attached.
Having removed the water pump impeller and replaced with a bung and removed the thermostat, the rest of the plumbing is straight forward by following the DC instructions. It involves cutting the standard top hose and inserting an adaptor for fitting the temp sensor and blanking off the by-pass hose. This I achieved by fitting a ball bearing of a suitable size into the standard by-pass hose. The ball bearing should be of a size to be a snug fit in the pipe and too big to pass the metal connectors.
Fitting the digital controller
Not wanting anything too modern to spoil the 70s ambience of the Stag interior, I elected to site the digital controller in the glovebox.
From there, I was able to thread the 5 wires, 1 at a time, through an existing aperture in the glovebox down to the passenger foot well. From there, I threaded the wires through the firewall into the engine compartment. Conveniently, there is a large enough hole, perfectly positioned directly under where the main loom passes from the relay board. This hole is blanked by a large grommet which I prised out, modified and refitted.
With a watertight system, I connected the pump direct to the battery and let it run for 10 mins to bleed the system. Then I reconnected it via the relay. The relay was not included in the DC kit but I bought a suitable relay from Halfords and located it with a nut and bolt using an existing hole in the o/s/f inner wing close to the battery. This enabled the shortest route for wires and avoided having to drill holes in my Stag.
To tidy up the wiring from the bulkhead to the pump, temp sensor and relay I used flexible split plastic pipe (see photo) and routed it under the relocated alternator in front of the rad.
After a final check to ensure that the pipes and wires were not too close to pulleys, belts or exhaust manifolds I fired her up and, on fast tickover, watched the temp gauge climb to 2/3 when the electric fan kicked in and brought it down to mid-way.
I was dismayed to see white exhaust smoke/steam and mayo on the oil filler cap and thought that my first attempt to fit head and inlet manifold gaskets had been a failure.
Despondent, I needed to talk someone, so I called Steve Sparrow (Stagongas) who had kindly let me visit to take photos of his EEWP installation last year. I’m glad I called Steve because he explained that during the months of inactivity, condensation will have built up in the crankcase and exhaust system and was the likely cause of the steam and mayo and a good run would most likely dry the system out.
Encouraged, I took the Stag on a 30 mile run and the exhaust and crankcase are clear. Thanks Steve!!
I have driven 50 miles over 3 days and re-torqued the heads down to 55ftlb. I was surprised that the head nuts and bolts turned a further 60 degrees.
As the weather improves, I’ll be taking more and longer drives in the Stag to build confidence in the work I’ve done and enjoy the Stag experience again.
2016-11-14 15.15.43.jpg2016-11-14 15.16.13.jpg2017-02-15 14.17.19.jpg2017-02-15 14.17.25.jpg2016-10-16 16.31.15.jpg
Great work!
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