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Refurbishing Stag alloys - advice sought on how to do it myself

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    Refurbishing Stag alloys - advice sought on how to do it myself

    Hi All

    I was cleaning our Stag last weekend and after yet another winter of use, the alloys are looking dull and sad. I don't have sufficient spare funds to replace them. So I am planning on refurbishing the existing wheels myself. I don't want to pay someone else to do it as in my opinion half the fun of owning a classic car is doing the various jobs yourself.

    So, what are the good ways of doing this job and what that the various pitfalls to avoid. I seem to recall somebody saying on here to oil them after polishing rather than applying laquer but I have failed to find that post whilst using the search engine.

    Thanks in anticipation

    Bruce

    #2
    There is good advice on alloy wheel refurbishment on the Detailing World forum and on YouTube. I was going to do a set myself for my Vectra but there is a firm in Birmingham that charges only £20 per wheel, which is not much more than the cost of the materials. So I thought I'd give them a try.

    Paul
    1975 Triumph Stag long term restoration project, TV8, MOD

    Comment


      #3
      Have had a few sets done by A1 bilston & Rimstock, some good some not so.
      Would consider doing them myself if I had a lathe that could diamond turn.
      The polished look is nice, but diamond turn was original.
      Don't use lacquer because any subsequent corrosion & there will be some, cant easily be fixed without a complete strip again.
      Stag alloys do have a limit to the number of times they can be diamond turned. They get too thin, especially at the schrader valve seal face, which should have been designed with a pocket to help with that, once they are too thin to seal, they can be used with a tube, but I think they are too thin by then anyway.
      Consider shark hide as a polish / protector, its used on raw / polished motorcycle crankcases & gives up to a 5 year protection but also allows for intermediate re-work too. Also used on air-stream alloy caravans too. Its not cheap though.
      There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
      2.

      Comment


        #4
        Stag alloys are somewhat different to my Vectra wheels, of course. The Vectra wheels, like those used on many younger cars, are painted or powder coated and then lacquered. Stag alloys are polished.

        Interesting post, jbuckl.

        Paul
        1975 Triumph Stag long term restoration project, TV8, MOD

        Comment


          #5
          Hi,

          I have used Autosol and elbow grease which brings them up quite well, not mirror finish but nice and shiny for aluminium.


          I have read about using a "hard" wax top coat but not sure which and where to get, currently using ordinary bodywork polish.

          John H

          Comment


            #6
            Well done! Got any before and after photos of them for us?

            Originally posted by Johnh View Post
            I have read about using a "hard" wax top coat but not sure which and where to get, currently using ordinary bodywork polish.
            I have used any old cheap hard-ish wax for such things as wheels. I think the one I keep in is a Simoniz product in a green plastic tub. I just slather it on, work it in, clean off the excess with a cloth and then buff to a shine with a microfibre cloth.

            Paul
            1975 Triumph Stag long term restoration project, TV8, MOD

            Comment


              #7
              Usa a polishing mop on a drill, battery best but electric ok if has slowish setting, saves on the elbows. Been mentioned on here before.
              I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

              Comment


                #8
                Elbow grease and loads of patience, I did mine several years ago, each wheel took about 9 hours that included masking and spray painting. They are not lacquered now just polished regularly and sealed with Colonite wax

                Mike

                Comment


                  #9
                  small file size.jpgHi all,

                  I took my wheels off the car as it is a lot easier with the wheels horizontal than not. I had not thought of using a slow drill but it sounds a good idea.

                  The wheels are not perfect to say the least but they do look good from a little distance, at least I think so. Next year I will try the drill option, I do it as a winter task.

                  I looked for Colonite wax and I see it is readily available but which one:

                  No 845
                  Insulator Wax

                  small file size.jpg
                  No. 840
                  Pre-wax Cleaner

                  No. 476
                  Doublecoat Paste Wax

                  No. 915
                  Marque D' Elegance Paste Wax

                  This is what one wheel looks like with liquid wax:
                  Last edited by Johnh; 3 April 2017, 11:25. Reason: add picture

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I use a drill with a long flexi lead to keep the weight off the polishing mop
                    Stops my arms aching
                    As said before, keep the speed low to medium
                    John

                    Comment

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