Steering rack play

[Stagdad]

image.jpg
Hi all, my stag failed mot due to play at the point indicated in pic. Is this adjustable some how. Have ordered new seal kit and have 2 racks both leaking in those areas. Hoping to make one good one. Any bit I shouldn't try and inter swap?

[Seaking]

image.jpgIs this any help hope it is not item 11

cheers Glenn

[Stagdad]

Thanks Glenn, just been looking at a spare muff gave me and it is looking better. The seals have gone so all the grease has washed out around the toothed part making it feel a bit notchy but I'm hoping a reseal kit will sort that and some new grease will smoothen things up a bit. Going to do the seal kit to the pump as well as I've had it for about 5 years on the shelf.

[new to this]

Steve

When fitting the seal kit,may be a good idea to fit,steering rack bull cup kit as well,Chris Witor sells them

[MandM]

Thanks Glenn, just been looking at a spare muff gave me and it is looking better. The seals have gone so all the grease has washed out around the toothed part making it feel a bit notchy but I'm hoping a reseal kit will sort that and some new grease will smoothen things up a bit. Going to do the seal kit to the pump as well as I've had it for about 5 years on the shelf.

Make yourself a raft to get the cir clip on and off without scoring the shaft makes the job a whole easier.
P1060381.jpg

[Stagdad]

Make yourself a raft to get the cir clip on and off without scoring the shaft makes the job a whole easier.
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good idea thanks

[jpyke]

Hi all, my stag failed mot due to play at the point indicated in pic. Is this adjustable some how. Have ordered new seal kit and have 2 racks both leaking in those areas. Hoping to make one good one. Any bit I shouldn't try and inter swap?

This looks like the pinion end - in which case yes, the play can be taken out with the adjustable plunger on the top front face of the rack. This keeps the rack in nice tight mesh with the pinion. I think the ROM covers it reasonably well from memory. Worth doing the full rebuild though, since you're at it. This adjustment will then be one of the finishing jobs.

Couple of other bits of advice from having done mine:
1) As others have said on here, use plenty of hot water to soften the PTFE seals when getting them into place - e.g. the one on the piston at the centre of the rack and the ones in the spool valve. They'll be a bit oversize (having stretched) when you come to refit the piston back in the rack tube and the spool valve back in its housing.
2) You'll need some hydraulic sealant to seal the union that screws into the middle of the rack housing. Give me a shout if you haven't got any, I bought a bottle to do mine and have got most of it left.
3) The torsion bar is pinned top and bottom in the spool assembly with a hardened steel roll pin. These can wear and the effect is lighter (more vague) steering. If you're having the spool apart to replace seals you might want to replace these roll pins whilst you're at it for a really "as new" feel. I've got some hardend steel dowel pins which are an interference fit if you're interested.

Chrs

J

[Stagdad]

This looks like the pinion end - in which case yes, the play can be taken out with the adjustable plunger on the top front face of the rack. This keeps the rack in nice tight mesh with the pinion. I think the ROM covers it reasonably well from memory. Worth doing the full rebuild though, since you're at it. This adjustment will then be one of the finishing jobs.

Couple of other bits of advice from having done mine:
1) As others have said on here, use plenty of hot water to soften the PTFE seals when getting them into place - e.g. the one on the piston at the centre of the rack and the ones in the spool valve. They'll be a bit oversize (having stretched) when you come to refit the piston back in the rack tube and the spool valve back in its housing.
2) You'll need some hydraulic sealant to seal the union that screws into the middle of the rack housing. Give me a shout if you haven't got any, I bought a bottle to do mine and have got most of it left.
3) The torsion bar is pinned top and bottom in the spool assembly with a hardened steel roll pin. These can wear and the effect is lighter (more vague) steering. If you're having the spool apart to replace seals you might want to replace these roll pins whilst you're at it for a really "as new" feel. I've got some hardend steel dowel pins which are an interference fit if you're interested.

Chrs

J

Thanks James, i have decided to get a recon one for speed but will either do my spare one at a more leasurly pace or sell all the parts I have just bought as a complete rebuild kit. I know what you mean about the roll pin.
cheers Steve