Starter Motor removal

[Rod1883]

I know there is a great piece of instruction in the Technical - Engine section.
I'm struggling for enough 3/8" extension bars to get to the top bolt, and using part 3/8" and part 1/2" isn't working.
I'm also concerned that too many 3/8" extension bars connected together will only result in the issue that 1/2" bars present as the connections are quite large.

Can anyone advise the optimum extension bar lengths, and confirm that two bars connected together is the best solution?
I'm going to need to buy at east one extra 3/8" bar, so want to be sure I get one that will do the job.

Thanks

[mjheathcote]

I've just changed mine, but I managed to get in between cylinder 6&8 with a socket, flexible joint, and short extension bar.
However this maybe because I have tubular manifolds that give an extra bit of room.

[Rod1883]

I don't have that option with standard manifolds Mike.

Has anyone any guidance on the best 3/8" extension bar lengths so that the joints/connections don't foul anywhere?

Thanks
Rod

[len]

Rod.
I reckon approx 450mm worth of 3/8 extension bars are required. It's a bit of a faff but easy with patience
Len

[p.gib]

Put mine back on last night. Took some useful photos of the extension bars etc., but cannot upload them! I used three bars and the total length from the end of the socket to the end of the ratchet was 550mm.
Has taken longer not to load the photos than to put the motor back on!!

[Klaus Schlueter]

Does this link help?

http://socforum.com/forum/showthread.php?16433-Uploading-Pictures-to-the-Forum

[p.gib]

Thanks Klause, followed that & I'm afraid no luck. Was getting to the point of using some of the tools used to fit the pump being used on the computer. Hence the explanation rather than photos!! Thanks anyway.

[p.gib]

Starter 1.jpgStarter2.jpgStarter3.jpgStarter 1.jpg Well, after success posting a photo earlier today, thought it a waste not to try again. Rejoice the idiot has succeeded!!! After all this I hope it isn't too late or if it is, this may be of use to someone else.

[Rod1883]

Thanks for these.
I had to order a 3/8" drive 9/16" socket and that took ages to arrive, so I haven't done the job yet.

However I really cleaned all the electrical connections (as I detailed in another thread a few minutes ago) and that has, at least for the moment, resolved the issue.

I'm sure my starter/solenoid is slowly on the way out - it is the original one so at 43 years old I guess it will need replacing soon!

[mole42]

After all this I hope it isn't too late or if it is, this may be of use to someone else.

Excellent, thank you.

A question. Would it be possible to get in with a single extension bar if I had one about 50cm long?

[Jeff]

I had to use all sorts of extensions and a knuckle joint, standard manifold.

[p.gib]

The problem with using one long bar would be feeding it behind the manifold, you are restricted by the gap between the radiator and the manifold. If the radiator is out, possibly. I am certainly no expert, so followed the instructions by Flying Farmer in the technical section. My success in changing the motor is credit to the simple way it was explained. My computer skill are slightly better than my mechanical skills!!

If I can, anyone can!

[marshman]

Had a MoT this morning, MoT tester went to restart to do the brake test, "click - nothing". Tried several more times. nothing. It was still on the ramp we lifted the car up and used the booster pack straight onto the solenoid - still "click nothing" which kind of ruled out any ideas about dodgy wiring, earths, worn ignition switches, flat batteries, dirty connectors etc. So while one guy sat in the car and turned the key I put the jump leads straight on the starter terminal and away we went.

When I got home, (with new MoT), I thought I had better sort it out, although the car now seemed to start OK. So off with the starter, off with the contact end of the solenoid and I had a good look. I could see the problem. I cleaned the contacts some years ago but I didn't remove the stud that goes to the starter windings as the copper wire to the solenoid winding was attached. I could now see that it had worn slightly wedge shaped and the main contact area was along one side and was very black, burnt and pitted. So I cut the wire and "faced" off the contact surfaces of both studs in the lathe. This ensured the surfaces were flat and "square", I also took care to ensure they were the same thickness. I also cleaned removed the contact "bar" and turned it so that fresh metal would now be in contact. I reassembled the end of the solenoid - soldering the thick winding wire back on, checked the pinion eccentric adjustment - this had no clearance so I adjusted that. Refitted and seems to be working OK. I had forgotten that there are 2 windings in the solenoid, a pull in one and a holding one. The holding coil does not activate until the contact is made, so if there is a poor contact, the second winding never comes in making matters worse.

Anyway reason for posting is that I used 3/8" socket set to access the top bolt. I needed 3 extensions - 250mm, 150mm and short 80mm. Total length 430mm (including 9/16" AF socket. The maximum length of extension you can manoeuvre between the radiator and the gap in the exhaust manifold is 370mm.

It is best to go with the socket, then long extension, then medium then short. Reason is space is so tight that the joint between the extensions can prevent you "getting onto" the bolt.

The motor, complete with solenoid, just squeezes out between the downpipe and bodywork.

Whole job took 2 hours and was quite straight forward.

PICT0265.jpgPICT0266.jpgPICT0267.jpgPICT0268.jpg