Question on diff quill shaft bearing/seal replacement.

[atc40]

I have noticed that my diff has started leaking from the front. So looks like i need to replace the bearing and seal, have done a search on the Forum and found a lot of good information. I have not done this job before and would like some advice, please.
Looking at the parts catalogue i can see that the seal part number is 137346 and bearing is 134466, but what about bearing 134070, does this generally need replacing? Does it need removing to be able to replace the seal?
Also there does not appear to be a gasket between the diff and quill shaft extension housing shown in the parts catalogue, is there one?
I plan to remove just the extension housing, leaving the diff on the car, is this a good idea or not. Do i need to drain the diff of oil?
Anything else i need to be aware of?
Any help gratefully received.
Thanks.
Andy.

[mole42]

I would recommend taking the diff off and leaving the front extension in the car. Otherwise you'll have lots of extra work in removing the suspension cross-members, exhaust & brake parts.
If you take the diff off, you can do it while the car is on its wheels (assuming you have ramps or a lift).
Take the propshaft off the nose of the extension, undo the centre nut while the diff is still on, take the diff off, then the quill shaft will slide out with minor persuasion. I reckon a couple of hours to do this job. The Triumph "Repair Operation Times" makes it 2 hours to remove and refit the diff.
The oil seal in the diff nose isn't difficult while it's on the floor, the quill shaft bearing comes out quite easily once the circlip is removed. There is no gasket between the diff and the extension. No need for one.
Bearing 134070 is the front pinion bearing inside the diff. You'll probably not need that. If you do, prepare for the can of worms!

[wilf]

Is your front diff extension the strengthened type? If not, now would be a good time to fit one. A known weak point as standard.

Also, Klaus (I think it was Klaus!) posted a very good mod to the extension - a drain hole to allow any oil passing through the diff front seal to escape, rather than make its way through the extension bearing and wreck that.

Edit - yes Klaus - here: http://socforum.com/forum/showthread...ght=diff+drain

[atc40]

Mole42 & Wilf - Thank you for your replies.

Mole42 - My diff was a rebuilt one from Richard Lane bought about 20 years ago and only done 6K miles since, is very quiet and has only just started to leak. So should have no problems with bearing No. 134070.

Wilf - Yes i intend to carry out Klaus's very sensible mod whilst the extension piece is off and strengthen it at the same time. I have seen 2 types of strengthening, triangular fillets welded onto the outside of the tube, or just recently, Chris Witor welds flat bar across the 4 flats of the nose piece. My initial thoughts are to go the Witor route as i believe there will be less heat involved, therefore less risk of distorting the bearing housing. Any thoughts?

As the car has been on axle stands over the winter, which is when i noticed the drips of oil, i may get away without changing the bearing as it has not been driven in this condition.
Although insured (off road) i do not intend to tax it until next year when it gets to 40 years old (unless the government change the rules, again, just missed out when it was 25 years).

[StagnJag]

If you do choose to change the diff nose bearing, ensure you spend the £ on the best quality bearing you can. I made the mistake of buying a cheaper bearing and it only lasted a couple of thousand miles. I replaces it with a decent one and it is fine many '000's of miles later.

Rgds

Dave

[Klaus Schlueter]

Strengthening: I preferred the flat bar version: less hest and much easier to weld. Bearing: RHP W7/8-2RS would again be my choice.

Klaus

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