Ok - here's one that I bet is unusual enough to be unique!

[Stimpy]

I am going to flush and change my coolant - no problem.

Here's an idea though....

I have an 8hp blower that dries the car (instead of chamois) - it is excellent

You might see where I'm going.....

Do you think that the last flush of tap water can be blasted out by introducing hight speed air?
The (Stag) system is under huge pressure once the coolant is at ideal temp (hence, never take the cap off the expansion tank after a long drive)

I can't see the blowing of air being any more dangerous than compressed coolant.

So good idea or no-no?

FYI - I open the heater system (i.e. turn it on in the car) and I use the pipes that go from the bulk head to the heater matrix as my 'flush point'

Cheers

[GDPR]

I reckon half a pint, and a lot more grief getting rid of airlocks after - you will after all be displacing standing water with air..

IMHO probably not worth it - keeping the car level when removing the block bungs would yield a better result or try turning the car upside down

[Stimpy]

Bugger!

Ok - what about this:

water flush
air blast
water flush
Natural drainage
coolant fill

my 'blow' idea is that it would shift all the silt within the system where water flushing alone isn't 'strong' enough to lift heavy stuff

[Motorsport Micky]

"my 'blow' idea is that it would shift all the silt within the system where water flushing alone isn't 'strong' enough to lift heavy stuff "

"Muddy"thinking I'm afraid Stimpy the silt will be wet, clogging and heavy and the air pressure you'll need to shift any would be more akin to a airline to the compressor rather than your blower. If you can rig up a pressure control system to the mains to avoid ruptureing any of the heater/radiator etc flimsy vanes I'd have thought 15 lbs would be ok to run through the system that's what the cooling items should stand anyway, and flush it one way then the other combined by a short but jerky couple of hundred yards road trip to shift bits stuck around corners that's about as good as you'll get. As Russ says the car drains better level than when on stands so finish it off like that if you can.

Micky

[Goldstar]

I reckon half a pint, and a lot more grief getting rid of airlocks after - you will after all be displacing standing water with air..

IMHO probably not worth it - keeping the car level when removing the block bungs would yield a better result or try turning the car upside down

You still here?

[GDPR]

No bloody respect, you ex RAF sorts

[Goldstar]

No bloody respect, you ex RAF sorts

[Stimpy]

"my 'blow' idea is that it would shift all the silt within the system where water flushing alone isn't 'strong' enough to lift heavy stuff "

"Muddy"thinking I'm afraid Stimpy the silt will be wet, clogging and heavy and the air pressure you'll need to shift any would be more akin to a airline to the compressor rather than your blower. If you can rig up a pressure control system to the mains to avoid ruptureing any of the heater/radiator etc flimsy vanes I'd have thought 15 lbs would be ok to run through the system that's what the cooling items should stand anyway, and flush it one way then the other combined by a short but jerky couple of hundred yards road trip to shift bits stuck around corners that's about as good as you'll get. As Russ says the car drains better level than when on stands so finish it off like that if you can.

Micky

Hmmm - I think I'm going to drop the air idea. Even with just a couple of responses I can see the risk drifting into the 'positive' zone.
Maybe I had a great idea in theory but in practise it's just not that simple

Ta for the help

[GDPR]

I think you are wise - the effort/benefit ratio isn't high enough

[Dave M]

I think you are wise - the effort/benefit ratio isn't high enough

Story of my life

[mole42]

How about a big ultrasonic tank, drop a stripped engine in that and see what comes out?

(only half serious!)

[wilf]

I flushed my cooling system using a hose and compressed air. I made good and sure that no real pressure could build up in the system - bottom hose off.

After draining and removing block drains, Took the 'stat out. Took bottom hose off. Filled with clean water, then made a rough seal around the air hose nozzle with a rag into the stat housing and blasted all the crap out. refilled and repeated until the water coming out of all orifices ran clear. Took a few go arounds.

Put everything back, tightened the various hose clips, refilled with water plus 30% antifreeze. No airlocks, no problems, car ran 5 degrees cooler.

[stagmuffin]

Much moons back i devised a method which is in common use domesticaly and commercialy using a boiler heating system flushing pump rig. Very simple and hugely effective using the recomended cleaning agents.remove rad and clean seperate with the system but clean block and water ways together completely,heater matrix also done seperataly to avoid filling it and rad with harder to shift larger deposits from block.
VELOCITY not pressure is the key and the fact you reverse flow at short intervals to keep solids in suspension prior to draining .there is no damage to worry about and clean is what you get only other thing to do is remove thermostat and reseal to allow flushing action

[Stimpy]

Drained system

Then - switched on my my aftermarket water pump (bottom of rad) which chucked out loads of stuff
I plugged a hose on to the top pipe for the heater (fit perfectly) - ran the tap for ages.
Then opened the expansion tank (I've got one of those high up aluminium ones) and watched the stuff come out until clear.

Then did the same but put the hose on the disconnected heater matrix pipe (i.e. reversed )

Then I put the pump on again (runs on IGN) - and - ahem - Blew hard at the expansion tank opening. Surprisingly that REALLY chucked stuff out.

Then I put pink stuff + rainwater in. Did a few starts and stops - top up - drive round block - check tank - fluid to the top.

The weird thing is - all that pink stuff I put in looked green when i peering into the tank, It's metal so I cant tell by looking at the container.