Rear brakes become very hot.

[Peter924]

Three weeks ago the brake shoes of rear left brake got stuck and the brakes overheated.
The brakedrum had become so hot that I had to wait half an hour for it cool down.
I was able to release the brake shoes, or what was left of it, and get the Stag home.
I discovered that the rear left brake hose had collapsed.
So after releasing the brakes the brakefluid was not able to return and the cylinder kept on pushing the brake shoes against the brakedrum.
After this event I decided to overhaul both rear brakes and flush the rear break circuit.
The brake shoes, brake hoses, all the springs, dustcovers and seals were renewed. I also fitted a new handbrake cable.
After that the brakesystem was flushed and bled.
A testdrive of a few miles was made and I found that both rear brake drums had become very hot.
Removing the brake drum was difficult after this ride.
The mechanism that adjusts brakes for wear had pushed the brakeshoes against the brake drum.
After resetting the brake shoe adjuster I refitted the drum.
And than again I heard the rattling sound of the brake shoe adjuster when I hit the brakes.
The brake drum was stuck again.
I've taken apart the brakes a few times now, but to no evail.
In the numerous threads on this forum about the rear brakes, which were very helpfull when installing, I found no solution for this problem.
Are there any suggestions to be made for a proper solution ?
I thank any response in advance.

Regards,

Peter

[susiedeer]

Just do it as DJT suggests (give rear brake adjusters a search); remove the cables and tie the levers that the cables attach to to the rear bumpers with string/straps or similar; stamp on the brakes a couple of times to set the adjusters; reconnect the cables and all was well for Stanley, been good as gold ever since (touch forehead!!). I can even lay rubber at 20 mph with the hand brake lever (not that I want to with the cost of tyres!).
Cheers
Andy

[GDPR]

Have you now got an oval drum creating further problems? If you overheated the brake that badly and it was stuck on, then chances are it is - it may give you problems adjusting from here on

[bullstarz]

When i first got my Stag if did have rear brake issues and when i took off the drums it all looked fine. Closer inspection showed they had been put together slightly wrong, the springs had been incorrectly attached and caused the shoes to twist it was an easy fix. It wasn't obvious at first.

[Peter924]

Have you now got an oval drum creating further problems? If you overheated the brake that badly and it was stuck on, then chances are it is - it may give you problems adjusting from here on

I've chequed both drums, also the one that wasn't overheated. They are on the inside 299mm +/- 0.2 mm.

[Peter924]

When i first got my Stag if did have rear brake issues and when i took off the drums it all looked fine. Closer inspection showed they had been put together slightly wrong, the springs had been incorrectly attached and caused the shoes to twist it was an easy fix. It wasn't obvious at first.

When I took them apart when overhauling I found out the top springs weren't attached properly by the po. They were on the outside. Also the mechanisme that adjusts for wear was fitted wrongly. I've fitted everything according to the Stag service manual now (I hope.............). I also took the advice of the numerous threads about installing the rear drums.
Here are some pictures of the right hand rear brakes.

Triumph Stag AM-51-34 remschoenen_05a1_mail.jpgTriumph Stag AM-51-34 remschoenen_05b1_mail.jpgTriumph Stag AM-51-34 remschoenen_05c1_mail.jpg

[Peter924]

Today I've removed some material from the top of the brakeshoes as adviced in one of the threads about this problem.
The drum fits around the brakeshoes but I can still hear the sound of the shoes that slightly touch the drum.
I've driven about 5 miles now and the brakes become "handwarm" not hot.
The handbrake on the other hand has nearly no effect at this moment.
I wil try the method adviced in post #2 again, done that before.

[StagManiac]

Hopefully, as the brakes 'bed in,' the situation you describe above will reduce and they will be back to full efficiency.

Paul

[Jeff]

Don't want to start an argument but with brakes surely they should be working at full efficiency immediately, I always make sure mine do.

I do accept the bedding in but...........

[jbuckl]

I have had an issue with new rear wheel cylinders, in the past.(IIRC they were from a box marked LPR brand)
Didn't actually cause the binding that is on this topic.
But could have done.
The seals were an incorrect size.
Whilst this should never be the case, it happened.
If the problem doesn't seem to be resolved, perhaps the seals could be inspected / pistons checked for movement?
The way to do this in the first instance is to operate the pedal with a pair of levers against the shoes, to check the piston return force & travel subjectively. The levers can prevent unwanted auto adjustment.
This is a two person job! (of course)
If the load seems to be too high, or the springs cannot pull the shoes back, then a seal check might be useful?

[Peter924]

This could be a solution to the problem as I have also changed the seals.
I will look at it as soon as it stops raining, unfortunately my garage is not wide enough for this job.

[Robin Searle]

In December I decided to replace my brake discs, pads, and rear brake shoes so started the job but then with all dismantled, we took a 3-month winter vacation in Mexico. Now decided to finish the job, but have a mental block [I am 80!] and cannot figure the layout of the rear LHS shoes and hand brake adjuster. I have found the photos of the RHS but despite searching cannot manage to find a similar photo of the LHS.
I would appreciate it if someone would post an LHS photo on the forum for me.

Robin [Warm today as it is only -10C].