Flexible wood veneer

[Andrew S]

Have a spare dash set that I am halfway through stripping and although the American crown walnut was the original veneer, I like the golden look as its aged so looking at a Teak crown cut.

I have ignored the iron on veneers as its just doesn't feel right although I am sure they are ok

My question is, I can see real wood 0.6mm paper backed veneers for sale and one of the positive features is that it says it wont split and can be cut easier.

The focus is also that its supposed to be more flexible and I suppose flatter when you buy it

Has anyone tried this type of veneer out, not expensive but certainly not cheap.

Cheers
Andrew

[jakesmig]

Hi Andrew, I bought bare Oak Burr sheets from jan8753 , a trader on Ebay, who had several different veneers to choose from. I bought enough sheets for about £20.00 to do the job and leave a little left over. It was about 1mm thick which allowed for easy application with enough body to sand flat. I used PVA glue which worked well.
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John.

[STypeR]

Thats a nice job and the Oak Burr is a lovely looking veneer. Here in Australia, UV rays are deadly and I would not use the iron on veneers they peel off in our climate. Have not tried PVA and I would be unsure if it is up to the job in harsh conditions as well.
In the UK going crazy with glues may not be necessary but I have always used the 'high stress' wood glues. More difficult to work with but necessary where high strength, water resistance and heat resistance is needed. It is a melamine fortified urea formaldehyde requiring mixing with a hardener. So a resin and a hardener. Maybe newer technologies out recently as well.

[new to this]

Thats a nice job and the Oak Burr is a lovely looking veneer. Here in Australia, UV rays are deadly and I would not use the iron on veneers they peel off in our climate. Have not tried PVA and I would be unsure if it is up to the job in harsh conditions as well.
In the UK going crazy with glues may not be necessary but I have always used the 'high stress' wood glues. More difficult to work with but necessary where high strength, water resistance and heat resistance is needed. It is a melamine fortified urea formaldehyde requiring mixing with a hardener. So a resin and a hardener. Maybe newer technologies out recently as well.

When i did my dash,i used Gorilla glue as seen on TV works really well

[Manuel]

I whant to do the same over wintertime.

10 years ago i made a sink.

Use 2K clear epoxy for gluing, and 2k clear car paint.

You need molds (inside and outside) to support the sheet and the panel.
Put over the sheet a backing paper, so it cant stick to the mold.
Use two thick boards to press the sheet strong to the panel between the molds.

sink.jpg

Manuel

[jagorstag]

I whant to do the same over wintertime.

10 years ago i made a sink.

Use 2K clear epoxy for gluing, and 2k clear car paint.

You need molds (inside and outside) to support the sheet and the panel.
Put over the sheet a backing paper, so it cant stick to the mold.
Use two thick boards to press the sheet strong to the panel between the molds.

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Manuel

That's a brilliant looking sink Manuel, very original!!

Cheers,
Joakim

[Jeff]

When i did my dash,i used Gorilla glue as seen on TV works really well

I bet you went ape Dave!

[new to this]

I bet you went ape Dave!

[Chris O]

I'm currently doing a bit of re-veneering on a spare dashboard set. I'm using a fleece backed veneer bought off Ebay. I'm really impressed with it as its fully flexible and the fleece layer stops glue leaking through to the veneer face. I agree that a Teak veneer is the way to go if you want a finish that looks close to the original.

I have used Goriilla Glue on a previous wood piece. I changed my mind a few months later and was able to lift the veneer off with a fine chisel which shows that it would not have lasted very long. I now use Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue which is available on EBay. I've tried this glue on a few scrap pieces of wood and you cannot shift the veneer once set - the only way is to sand it off.

[Andrew S]

Thanks Chris , very interesting

[bullstarz]

I've done a few dashes, you always have to wet (soak) the veneers to get rid of the imperfections, this will also allow it to bend. I now use gorilla glue which works best on wet substrate.