Best place to get a new MK2 radiator?

[aerosilver]

Hi all,

Having just fixed my leaking expansion bottle cap, the renewed increase in cooling system pressure has revealed a leak in the radiator, so now that has to be replaced!

Can anyone recommend the best/cheapest supplier for a new radiator? Rimmers look a bit expensive, and it doesn't look like LDPart sell them at all.

Cheers,

Bob.

[WildStag]

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When I was having similar problems at Easter, Alan Thomas suggested that if the rad was a good one (apart from the fracture), there is a place in Caversham that would be able to resolder it very cheaply.

Berkshire Radiators. 266, Gosbrook Rd, Caversham, Reading RG4 8EA; tel: 0118 947 3501.

In the end, I had mine replaced but if I had had more time, I would have explored the suggestion.

HTH

[DJT]

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I have always had good service from my local Serck Marston. I bought a recon rad from one of the Stag suppliers just over 2 years ago and this split at the base of the filler neck recently. Took it into Serck and had it repaired, flushed tested and a drain plug fitted. All for less than £40 with 12 monthsguarantee.

Dave

[aerosilver]

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Mine's gone in the same place Dave - I guess the soldered fillerjoint is a weak spot.

Well I've followed your advice and found a local company in Farnham who are going to take a look and repair it for me (www.a-e-r.co.uk) rather than me just order a new one. The guy was really helpful on the phone. Even if it requires a complete refurb and recore (which I'm pretty sure it doesn't), they said the most I'd pay would be £138, so sounds good so far.

WHile the rad's off, I think I might generally clean it up and repaint it as most of the black paint has peeled off - I was thinking of Hammerite - would this be the best paint to use? Any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Bob.

[seaside bill]

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Has anybodygot experience of usinga aluminium radiator? Definately not cheap at £600(ish), but supposed to the the dogsdanglers as far as thermo efficiency is concerned.

[TimShoubridge]

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Have been looking around on the subject of aluminium radiators Myself recently. Looked at a few sites and will continue, but I found this one, at £395.

http://www.radtec.co.uk/gallery.php?category=1

And these which need further investigation,

http://www.aaronradiator.co.uk/catalog.html

http://www.adrad.co.uk/new/catalogue.php?make=TRIUMPH

Whilst theseare not the only ones, I would prefer to deal direct with radiator companies than the likes of Rimmers etc. as (1) it is direct and not a middleman, and (2) they are a radiator company and that is their business.

[DJT]

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aerosilver wrote:

WHile the rad's off, I think I might generally clean it up and repaint it as most of the black paint has peeled off - I was thinking of Hammerite - would this be the best paint to use? Any other suggestions?

Bob, You usually find it comes back with a coat of matt or satin black paint. Standard finish. If you want it 'posh-looking' you will have to apply something else. Have a chat with them. See what they use.

Dave

[seaside bill]

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TimShoubridge wrote:

Have been looking around on the subject of aluminium radiators Myself recently. Looked at a few sites and will continue, but I found this one, at £395.

http://www.radtec.co.uk/gallery.php?category=1

Tim

Radtec one looks like quite a good price. If you get one, let us know how you get on. I know some people who've fitted them to race prepared TRs with good results. Bonus is it comes with mounting points for an electric fan which is useful.

[aerosilver]

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Standard matt will be fine Dave! I'm not bothered about it looking posh, just not like I've just dug it up from the garden, which is the look it has now! :shock:

I've just taken it off and am taking it in first thing tomorrow, so I'll ask what they do.

[Mark S]

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aerosilver wrote:

I guess the soldered fillerjoint is a weak spot.

If youknow someone with an oxy aceteleneset I would buy somesolder and flux and repairit yourself.Yes I know they say silver solder, but I did mine with soft solder, and it has held much longer then the R*****s job did.

If IHAD to have a recore I would insist that it wasn't the "crinkley tin"type cooling fins as I don't believe that these are properly constructed in most cases and provide far inferior cooling.

I would also have a boss soldered in for a temp switch.

Mark.

[seaside bill]

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Mark

Normally I'd agree with the DIY sentiment,but if you're not handy or inexperienced with brazing torch it's quite a critical/expensive item to experiment on - ideally you need to pressure test such repairs (preferably not at the roadside!). My viscous coupling failed over the w/end so the radiator is on its way out therefore I'm taking the opportunity to get a boss for a temp sensor fitted together with proper fixing brackets for the Kenlowe fan.

One thing I hadn't thought about when fitting the Kenlowe fan with the copper pins/ratchet fixing was getting it off again should the need arise. The 16" is too big to remove still attached to the radiator, so I set about it (very carefully) with my Dremel and a cutting disk. Finally got the 8 pins out, with lots of tugging/twisting, cussing and moderate blood loss, but I'll need to get the radiator pressure tested to make sure my efforts haven't damaged anything.

[aerosilver]

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The outfit I took the my rad along to initially gave it a good pressure testing which revealed it to be in a bit of a worse state than I thought, with several leaks, so as it turns out it's having to be recored, revamped and generally resurrected. They say I should have it back on Thursday so hopefully I'll be able to test it thoroughly over the weekend

Bob.

[Malcstag]

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Hi I use, Wessex Radiators in Burseldon Near Southampton, they charge about £110 to replace with modernmulti finned core, braize new threads at the bottom, any other braszing needed and to paint it black for you.

Pefect job!