Tail/stop lamp connector issues.

[Paul Kelley]

Periodically one of my brake lights fails to come on. Tail lights are fine. The problem seems to be down to the ‘spade’ connectors as they respond to tightening but the effect doesn’t last. Anyone come up with a solution to this recurring problem? Or could it be something else?
Thanks, Paul.

[mole42]

I have replaced all my spade connectors, prompted by that very problem. I also added the extra wiring for the towbar at the same time.

I got proper brass crimp ones with see-through boots and used the correct crimp tool.

Richard

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks Richard. can I ask where you got these brass crimp ones and tool? Paul

[mole42]

The crimps probably came from either Autosparks or eBay. Tools I’ve had for many years but they can be had quite readily and not too expensive.

[Paul Kelley]

Thanks Richard.

[Staggering About]

I always crimp and solder my connectors.
It makes a much more secure fixing.

[stag8manod]

I have just fitted a set of LCD lamps (except headlights) but found them very earth susceptible, the worst being the RH rear indicator. For the umpteen time failing to get a reliable circuit, I soldered a separate earth wire onto the earth contact in the bulb holder with a ring connector to one of the petrol tank securing bolts. It all works and reliable. I will work along and do all of the rear lights, fronts are OK. I always solder any electrical connections, no crimps.
Cheers Ian A

[DJT]

Crimped connectors get a bad press due to poor quality crimps and not using the correct tool. I’ve bought crimps from a well known high street auto and cycle shop that we’re appalling quality. If you buy quality items and use a professional double-crimp ratchet tool, they will last indefinitely. They are approved for the offshore oil industry.

[Kithmo]

I usually tin the wire before crimping.

[fussydave]

I usually tin the wire before crimping.

Crimps are designed to be used with stranded cable and should not be used on solid core cables; tinning a cable makes it solid and the crimp may not grip it properly so I would not recommend this.

Dave.

[Wisey]

I had an intermittent indicator (I Know, They are supposed to etc..) and when I touched the spade it came to life. It wasn't the spade connection that was the issue, it was the brass(?) contact touching the centre contact of the lamp itself. I bent the brass contact toward the lamp, so that I felt more resistance as the lamp was pushed into the holder. Now all working fine, and MOT passed. Whoop, Whoop!

[Kithmo]

Crimps are designed to be used with stranded cable and should not be used on solid core cables; tinning a cable makes it solid and the crimp may not grip it properly so I would not recommend this.

Dave.

Sorry, I meant, if I'm going to solder the connector on, i.e. tin wire first, crimp, then solder.

[StagJonno]

As said by others, crimps are designed for stranded cables, but to ensure a good connection you need to use a ratchet-type tool designed for the particular crimps - the plier-type doesn't properly allow for reliable connections in my experience (done a lot of panel building in my time). I've never found any need for the additional soldering - I know that some of my panels have done over 20 years service without any connection problems. Some panels went to the Arctic, some in deserts, and at least a couple offshore. There's a school of thought that soldering can be detrimental as the flux is corrosive, leading to poor connections developing over time. Printed circuit boards need to be de-fluxed after soldering, with a moisture-proof lacquer applied to prevent corrosion.

IMO, you can get a decent crimp on single stranded wires - the tecnique I use with small wires (plus those that may have been supplied tinned) is to create a zig-zag in the bare end before putting it into the crimp.

The other "secret" to getting reliable crimp connections is to use the correct crimp for the size of wire being used. Oh, and always do a tug test and check there's no stray strands.

Jonno

[Ray Smith]

Crimped connectors get a bad press due to poor quality crimps and not using the correct tool. I’ve bought crimps from a well known high street auto and cycle shop that we’re appalling quality. If you buy quality items and use a professional double-crimp ratchet tool, they will last indefinitely. They are approved for the offshore oil industry.

Hi I used a ratchet crimp tool supplied by screwfix, good tool at not an expensive price.
Ray