Rear Brake Drums

[AndyPandy]

Hi All,



I'm trying to remove the rear brake drums on my '77 Stag - don't think they've been off before ! Can anyone recommend a suitable two-legged puller (cheapish) ? There seems to be loads available but I want to make sure that the legs fit through the two holes in the drum.

Many thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Andy

[stustag]

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Hi Andy

Silly question you have removed the 2 screws and let the hand brake off?

If yes try tapping it with a rubber mallet around the outer diameter and it should start to come off no need for a puller.

Stuart

[GDPR]

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You don't need a puller - if the drums don't wiggle then give them a good spank with a 2lb hammer to loosen them on the hub flange (obviously the screws need to come out).

If they wiggle (or at least wiggle since the spanking) but won't come off, release the handbrake cable at the clevis and pull the operating lever hard back against the backplate - that should pull the shoes back enough to get the drums off.

Russ:dude:

PS Stuart - get on with your bodywork and stop competing!!

[StagnJag]

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all of the above, but have you slackened off the adjuster? It is accible through the two holes you mention. Tose holes also line up with holes in the flange inside. If you try to use a puller, you will be pulling the thing you are trying to pull the drum off of, if you see what I mean.

I use a hammer and a small piece of plywood. Rest rhe plywood on the outside of the drum and hit it in a direction that will push the drum towards you. Work your way around the drum and it will loosen eventually.

Regards

Dave.


(p.s. Had a drum off of mine today!)

[GDPR]

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That's where we differ Dave - 21 years of doing it in a workshop (and the next12 doing it DIY/semi pro) says that you hit the face of the drum hard with a big hammer (if you have a plastic "dead blow" all the better) near the outer edge to try and tip it on the hub and break the rust bond twixt flange and drum - the other way is a hiding to nothing.... and I bet I get my drum off first with least damage

Russ:dude:

[DJT]

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kryten wrote:

- the other way is a hiding to nothing....

Russ:dude:

With the possibility of missing and knocking your front teeth out :X

Dave.

[GDPR]

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Oh yes - that too - thanks Dave

[StagnJag]

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I bow to your superior knowledge.

General consensus is t**t it one, either way

:P

Dave

[GDPR]

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with gusto!!

[martin]

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and vigour !

[StagnJag]

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lol.

[AndyPandy]

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All sorted - needed a slight use of a puller. Now just need to replace handbrake cable as it has been adjusted in the past to its maximum. Looks an 'interesting' job - hidden away behind exhausts and propo shaft ! Of course the Haynes manual makes no reference to these !!

Many thanks to all for your suggestions on the hub removal - much appreciated.

Andy

[GDPR]

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I haven't known many handbrake cables to stretch beyond adjustment, but I have frequently known the handbrake mechanisms (519070 and 071) in the drums to wear out or seize at the pivot and create the same effect.

Be really careful you are not replacing a perfectly serviceable part because you believe it to be stretched beyond use and the issue is elsewhere.

Just an observation

Russ:dude:

[Thurlo Squire]

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kryten wrote:

I haven't known many handbrake cables to stretch beyond adjustment, but I have frequently known the handbrake mechanisms (519070 and 071) in the drums to wear out or seize at the pivot and create the same effect.

Be really careful you are not replacing a perfectly serviceable part because you believe it to be stretched beyond use and the issue is elsewhere.

Just an observation

Russ:dude:

And a very useful observation Russ.......which is why I have a brand new handbrake cable in my spares cupboard!!!!!!

Nigel

[martin]

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I've always hated self adjusting drum brakes, keeping my rears working properly means pulling the drums once or twice a year, mucking about re-setting the "automatic" adjusters, disconnecting the cables, re-fitting, adjusting etc etc. The Triumph ones are probably the worst I've come across. :X

I've looked at converting them to manual adjustment, this may be possible by modifying MK 1 Triumph 2000 backplates, wind them up till they lock then back off 2 clicks, 10 minutes each side and guaranteed to be right first time. As I understand it, the Stag shoes are wider than the old 2000 and need a wider pivot block. and the wheel cylinders have a larger bore. I would very much appreciate any comment or observations before I tear mine to bits ! Martin.