Tips: Hood Frame Maintenance

[V Mad]

Dont get caught out with your hood down :shock:

I often get hood frames in that have siezed/broken joints due to lack of maintenance. These joints, which are located at the front corners of the frame sieze because there is not enough regular movement to displace any rust that inevitably forms inside the joint. Make sure they are oiled and free moving; some WD40 will help loosen siezed joints. Also lightly oil all other joints in the frame, but be careful not to stain your soft top lining, and wipe off any excess oil from the joints.

Other problems arise due to missing bolts, and this can cause the frame to jam which, if forced can bend out of shape. A particular weak spot is the link arms along the top section over the doors. This one which has a bolt in the middle and both ends will usually bend in the centre. This is not difficult to repair and just requires straightening carefully (may require removal first) although check it is not fractured around the bolt holes.

If your rear hoop side catches do not work, and you cant get the catches into the right position, this usually means that due to a weakness in the design the frame is bent in the main hoop. The only proper solution is to remove the complete frame and straighten it.

Finally, if your hood does not open and fold without jamming, do not force it. Find the cause and try to get it fixed. Of course you could always try the Basil Fawlty approach to car repair with a tree branch, which at least helps greatly to relieve the frustration.

[Greenstag]

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Hi V Mad

Good advise and now thinking about it some of those symptoms do ring true when I think about my hood. My main problem is corrosion in the main leading edge of the frame just on the passenger sidecorner. In fact the corner has parted in the past and someone has tried to rivet, glass fibre repair it but it's still weak.

Is it feasible to replace this section by peeling back the fabric rather tan go for a full hood rebuild?

David

[StagnJag]

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I have had a couple of pivot bolts shear off on mine over the last 12 months. Both roughly located above your head when sitting in the car. These would also benefit with a bit of oil - provided care is taken not to get any on the hood lining.

Dave

[V Mad]

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Greenstag wrote:

Hi V Mad

Good advise and now thinking about it some of those symptoms do ring true when I think about my hood. My main problem is corrosion in the main leading edge of the frame just on the passenger sidecorner. In fact the corner has parted in the past and someone has tried to rivet, glass fibre repair it but it's still weak.

Is it feasible to replace this section by peeling back the fabric rather than go for a full hood rebuild?

David

Hi David
Repairing a corner joint is a very difficult job which could be repaired in situ but it is better to strip the hood cover from the front section, then unbolt and remove the entire front section of the frame (front plus sides). Then you can get it on the bench and do it without worrying about damaging your interiror/hood etc. It will need cutting out, make new parts and welding back together.

If you dont fancy repairing yours I have a spare recon'd front section that I could supply if you want it. Just send me a PM.

[Greenstag]

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Thanks V Mad

PM sent

David

[whereufromnosecity]

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Hi V Mad

How easy is it to the replace the webbing? as mine has come away at the front and rear on the passenger side.

Stu E

[V Mad]

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whereufromnosecity wrote:

Hi V Mad

How easy is it to the replace the webbing? as mine has come away at the front and rear on the passenger side.

Stu E

The webbing is held on each rail by two pop rivets (plus a small plate). You can get to the ones on the middle rail just by lifting up the cover when folded back, but the one on the front and back rail is tricky because you cant easily lift the cover. If you cant get to them use glue. You can get new strapping from Woolies Trim.

[Pommie Stag]

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Hi V Mad,

Woolies Trim please explain, who where and what? I want to do a refurb on my hood and frame, but not half a job.
Its hard to work out what you need etc.

Do you know if the original hood on a 77 export would have had a tan / beige interior to the soft top?
I would like to get a new hood but without all the sowing do they exist? I have a Hartz (ex U.S.) hood here brand new in vinyl only with black interior but wow the stitching to the sticks will be a major job.

Many Thanks

Pommie

[Russell]

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Great advice there, especially from a newbie point of view - ive not even had the hard top off yet so the first few goes at putting up / down the top are going to be fun! Think ill just oil it all in the process actually.

[Greenstag]

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Russell

If you're really lucky the instructions for erecting you hood will stillbe on a sticker on the driver's side sunvisor. I think my hood had been stowed away for a year plus when I bought the carBest advise I can give is take it slowly and don't force it.

David

[Russell]

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Thanks David - the instructions are indeed still on the visor, and in my handbook - ill just need to take it slowly like you say!!

We are moving in 1 month so i dont think ill bother until we move, then once the car is in the new garage ill take the hard top off and leave it off!!!

[V Mad]

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Pommie Stag wrote:

Hi V Mad,

Woolies Trim please explain, who where and what? I want to do a refurb on my hood and frame, but not half a job.
Its hard to work out what you need etc.

Do you know if the original hood on a 77 export would have had a tan / beige interior to the soft top?
I would like to get a new hood but without all the sowing do they exist? I have a Hartz (ex U.S.) hood here brand new in vinyl only with black interior but wow the stitching to the sticks will be a major job.

Many Thanks

Pommie

Hi Pommie
Woolies is a trim company that sells webbing, see http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/

I cant give you a full run down on hood refurbishment, it would take too long, but I will try to cover the main tips. Here goes:

First remove the complete hood from the car. Then strip off the cover by removing all the rivets, and pulling off the glued on bits. Carefully note how it all comes apart; take photos in detail. Also take photos of all the frame joints as it is easy to forget which way it came apart.

Then check all the joints move freely, and no bolts are missing. Look carefully at each side and compare them. Usually the frame gets bent one side only and you can see the difference between each side. Remove any bent parts and carefully straighten them in a vice etc. Use a torch to heat any parts that are badly bent before straightening them.

Check that the rear hoop folds up, and adjust the side catches if necessary. If you cant get the catches to work, the frame main hoop will need straightening.

Check that the front/top section also folds and opens easily, and the corner joints are free to move.

When the frame is all working, clean and paint it, fit new trim (you can use leatherette or mohair) then fit the door top channels and seals. The fit the top/front chrome handles, and fit the whole frame to the car. Again check operation before fitting the cover. Adjust the rear hoop to lie flat on the body, and so that the centre catch locks and releases properly. Now fit the beige webbing.

Hood replacement covers should be available from all good trimmers (see the magazine ads), and should normally be black mohair with a beige lining.

To fit the cover, mark the centres, and fit the front first ensuring that the positions of the three flap strips match up with the hoop positions. When in position, glue the front to the frame, and trim off any excess material that extends beyond the front seal channel/retainer.

Next, lock down the front catches, and the rear hoop. Then stretch the cover until tight and mark the rear of the cover with chalk where it passes undere the rear hoop. Glue the cover to the rear hoop, then tension the sides until all creases are gone and glue them to the frame. Check thast the rear catch locks and releases and reposition the cover as necessary.

Finally fit remaining seal channels at front and sides, and fit rear seal using rivets.

Glue the strips in the roof to the three hoops (this can be done at any stage really and may be easier before fitting to the car. Dont use drippy glue if working inside the car (I use Thixofix)!!

I hope thats enough to help you decide whether to give it a go, and good luck.

Chris.

[worthers]

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Hi Vmad
I have recently had a new hood fitted to my frame but am still having trouble with the whole assembly jamming in the storage well when down.
Is it possible to remove the new hood and have the frame repaired and then put the hood back on?
If so is it a job that can reasonably be carried out by an amateur?
Or can you recommend any one to repair and refit?
Cheers
Derek

[V Mad]

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worthers wrote:

Hi Vmad
I have recently had a new hood fitted to my frame but am still having trouble with the whole assembly jamming in the storage well when down.
Is it possible to remove the new hood and have the frame repaired and then put the hood back on?
If so is it a job that can reasonably be carried out by an amateur?
Or can you recommend any one to repair and refit?
Cheers
Derek

Hi Derek
They usually jam in the storage well because the catches dont hold. Try adjusting the catches so they dont release when you put the hood down. If you are local to me drop in and I will have a look and/or fix it.
Regards, Chris

[tonypy1]

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Great instructions and advice V mad - much appreciated!