How long does cellulose take to touch dry?

[Rubce]

Hi All

Here is a view of my garage this afternoon with both doors and bootlid being primed. To create the space the shell was pushed outside and covered over.

Whilst taking this photo a possible problem occured to me:shock:. How long does it take for cellulose top colour coat to touch dry?:shock::shock:

After colour painting the seperate panels I need to be able to transport them back into the house so as to get the shell back ito the garage. Any bright suggestions?

Oh for a double garage!

Bruce (concerned)

[V Mad]

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It depends on the temperature, number of coats, and how much thinner you used.

[Rubce]

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V Mad wrote:

It depends on the temperature, number of coats, and how much thinner you used.

V-Mad

Okay for therorectial reasons lets say four coats, 50% thinners and at typical spring day temperature of between 12 and 17 degrees. I can get the tempetaure up above that in the garage by using the two heaters.

As regards thinners when I asked the question on here I was told to use 50:50 mix. Do you disagree with that?

Cheers

Bruce

[martin]

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Rubce wrote:

Hi All

Here is a view of my garage this afternoon with both doors and bootlid being primed. To create the space the shell was pushed outside and covered over.

Hiya, after about 3 hours it should be possible to pick the panels up without leaving marks, but be VERY careful, best idea is to fix a piece of wire or similar before painting that you can pick it up by. Try and lift them at a point that won't be seen - just in case. Martin.

[Russell]

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Looking good mate

[Rubce]

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martin wrote:

best idea is to fix a piece of wire or similar before painting that you can pick it up by. Try and lift them at a point that won't be seen - just in case. Martin.

Hi Martin

A good idea but it would have to be one hell of a big bit of wire to take the weight of a door complete with glass:shock:They are sodding heavy as I have discovered carrying themup and down the staircase to and from the guest bedroom.

How long do you think I have to leave the paint beforeI can rest the panel on that surface to permit me to spray the otherside? A week perhaps?

Cheers

Bruce

P.S. Our guest bedroom whiffs of thinners this evening. Will have to get the room aired before my parents to come visit on Friday:shock:

[Russell]

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P.S. Our guest bedroom whiffs of thinners this evening. Will have to get the room aired before my parents to come visit on Friday:shock:

LOL brilliant

[martin]

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Rubce wrote:

martin wrote:

best idea is to fix a piece of wire or similar before painting that you can pick it up by. Try and lift them at a point that won't be seen - just in case. Martin.

Hi Martin

A good idea but it would have to be one hell of a big bit of wire to take the weight of a door complete with glass:shock:They are sodding heavy as I have

You can carry the door by the window frame then re-mask it. I wouldn't allow any weight on a panel for about two weeks, have you thought of standing them up ? And yes - the house is gonna stink. Martin.

[Rubce]

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Hi Martin

My plan is to empty out the back bedroom and use it to lay out the panels to dry and leave the window open to get rid of the smell.

The doors can rest on the inside face which isusually covered by the doorcards. The bootlid can stand up on the edge which is usually covered by the chrome strip.

However, the bonnet is the one that is worrying me most. Due to its shear size I am going to have to grip it on the visible faces to carry it inside and then all surfaces are visble so what do I rest it on during drying? I suppose that I could support it on the section which is coverd by the sound pad but that is the thinnest section and I am concerned thatit will distort the panel.

Thoughts?

Bruce

[StagnJag]

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Could you rest it back on the shell in it's intended position? Perhaps a few blocks of wood in the corners to keep it up a bit.

Regards

Dave

[marshman]

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I hope any one else living in the house likes the smell of solvent. Doesn't matter whether its 2k or cellulose its going to stink for days. My other half moaned about the smell and my garage was 60ft from the house!

Also I would be very worried about putting any pressure on the paint - i.e carrying the bonnet for at least a day. The paint stays soft for ages & the thicker it is the longer it takes to dry. With cellulose it is an evapourative process - with 2k its a chemical process so less related to the thickness. As I recall the 2k was "hard" after 48 hours. I have known cellulose still be soft after a week.

One last thought, If you go for cellulose the make sure you use anti-bloom thinners for the colour coats. Its not worth the risk of getting a bloom where a cold draught has blown on the paint - it won't polish out! I have found this out to my cost in the past.

Roger

[marshman]

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Bruce,

Concerning the drying/storage problem. Is it not possible to hang all of the panelsaround the edge of the garage close to the walls and then push the body back in. In the past I have sprayed bits hanging in the middle of the garage and then moved them over to the sides. If the are supported on wires then you don't have to touch the paint at all. Also has the added bonus of keeping at least some of the smell out of the house

Roger