Prop shaft Question

[StagnJag]

Hi guys,

I could do with some advice!


As a suggestion to sort out one of my Stags less desirable noises, I have removed the prop shaft with a view to changing the UJ's. There is a small amount of play noticable in the front UJ.

I have several options and I am not sure what would be the best policy.


1) change the UJ's and bung the prop back on the car.
I seem to recall reading on here that the prop should be rebalanced after changing UJ's is this necessary?

2) change the UJ's and get the prop rebalanced.
The Rubber torsional damper looks to be pretty shot externally and I gather that these props are almost impossible to re-balance due to this joint.

or

3) Blow the expense and buy a new one and be happy that it will be done and dusted.
I have had a look at the main suppliers prices and they seem to vary wildly. LD part do a remanufactured original spec prop for £250 inc VAT, Paddocks do an oe GKN prop for £150 ex VAT (£170). and Rimmers do a redesigned prop using CV joints for £150 inc VAT.


I am currently leaning towards avoiding the hassle of changing the UJ's and going for the Paddocks option and peace of mind.

What do you guys think?

Cheers

Dave

[V Mad]

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You should not need to rebalance the prop shaft just because you change the UJs. If you have not had any vibration problems (other than due to UJ failure) why pay for a new prop?
Rather than struggle changing UJs yourself why not pop it in to a propshaft services company?

[EFI Stag]

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Hi Dave,

if you replace the u/j`s make sure you mark the flanges so not to reverse the joints.

Easy to do with a vice and some old sockets,

cheers Martin.

[Andrew S]

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Hi Dave

I had a vibration and bought a new outright propshaft and it was the same. It turned out to be the rubber sleeve as you mention, so I had a brand new onemade up from scratch. The Spline was new andI had a solid tube and no rubber. It uses the standard u/j's and am very pleased indeed. Cheap postage and a unit that I could fit straight away as they balance them as well.

http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/howtofindus.asp

They have a good technical section and when you speak to them on the phone, they are very helpful

Cheers

Andrew

[StagnJag]

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Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

It is good to hear that the prop shouldn't need re balancing after a UJ change, that was a welcome answer..

Unfortunately my vice isn't big enough to change UJ's in. Also it isn't permanently attached to a bench either, thus the difficulty. I have managed to change the UJ's on one of the half shafts so I know I can do it, it is just one of those jobs I hate doing. . I have a home made 'press' consisting of a couple of rectanular hollow steel sections and two lengths of threaded 10mm bar. It is a bit hairy but it seems to be able to exert an awful lot of pressure!

Cheers

Dave

[V Mad]

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StagnJag wrote:

Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

It is good to hear that the prop shouldn't need re balancing after a UJ change, that was a welcome answer..

Unfortunately my vice isn't big enough to change UJ's in. Also it isn't permanently attached to a bench either, thus the difficulty. I have managed to change the UJ's on one of the half shafts so I know I can do it, it is just one of those jobs I hate doing. . I have a home made 'press' consisting of a couple of rectanular hollow steel sections and two lengths of threaded 10mm bar. It is a bit hairy but it seems to be able to exert an awful lot of pressure!

Cheers

Dave

I hate doing UJs too. My 'local' prop services does the job while you wait, and not expensive.

[martin]

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V Mad wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

It is good to hear that the prop shouldn't need re balancing after a UJ change, that was a welcome answer..

Dave

I hate doing UJs too. My 'local' prop services does the job while you wait, and not expensive.

The old boys change UJs in they're hands, i.e hefted in the left hand and a 2lb hammer applying well placed blows in the right, I've done it in the past and it does work, at least onebearing cupis shocked out then you can get at the rest - worth a try, it's a substantial forging and you're unlikely to do any damage. Martin.

[V Mad]

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martin wrote:

V Mad wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

It is good to hear that the prop shouldn't need re balancing after a UJ change, that was a welcome answer..

Dave

I hate doing UJs too. My 'local' prop services does the job while you wait, and not expensive.

The old boys change UJs in they're hands, i.e hefted in the left hand and a 2lb hammer applying well placed blows in the right, I've done it in the past and it does work, at least onebearing cupis shocked out then you can get at the rest - worth a try, it's a substantial forging and you're unlikely to do any damage. Martin.

You sound a bit like the Haynes manual: just tap and the cups fall out. Maybe in future we should send them all to you then Martin?

[StagnJag]

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isn't it annoying when you write a long reply and then accidentally loose it all :X.

When I was attempting the UJ's on my half shaft I tried reassembly that way. The trouble was, it dislodged a couple of the rollers inside and I had a devil of a job to get it all apart again. Presumably he roller was to one side so the pressure I was exerting on it was not exerting evenly. It took me two or three weeks to get that sorted :shock:.
I will probably have a go at my propshaft in a couple of days. I will let you know how I get on.


Regards

Dave

[martin]

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StagnJag wrote:

When I was attempting the UJ's on my half shaft I tried reassembly that way.

Nah, you can't hit it to re-assemble, the needlerollers will shoot out every time. Martin.

[martin]

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V Mad wrote:

martin wrote:

V Mad wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

Hi guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

It is good to hear that the prop shouldn't need re balancing after a UJ change, that was a welcome answer..

Dave

I hate doing UJs too. My 'local' prop services does the job while you wait, and not expensive.

The old boys change UJs in they're hands, i.e hefted in the left hand and a 2lb hammer applying well placed blows in the right, I've done it in the past and it does work, at least onebearing cupis shocked out then you can get at the rest - worth a try, it's a substantial forging and you're unlikely to do any damage. Martin.

You sound a bit like the Haynes manual: just tap and the cups fall out. Maybe in future we should send them all to you then Martin?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEEEEES don't tell me I sound like Haynes - first, disconnect the battery - manuals. I didn't say it was easy, but it's not exceptionally difficult, and in my case, anything to save a buck ! Martin.

[Stagdad]

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StagnJag wrote:

isn't it annoying when you write a long reply and then accidentally loose it all :X.

Regards

Dave

Very Dave,

When i type alarge chunk (Not often) i always save it to the clipboard before sending just in case

Steve

[StagnJag]

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Stagdad wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

isn't it annoying when you write a long reply and then accidentally loose it all :X.

Regards

Dave

Very Dave,

When i type alarge chunk (Not often) i always save it to the clipboard before sending just in case

Steve

I do that sometimes, I usualy remember just too late though!:?

Dave

[StagnJag]

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martin wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

When I was attempting the UJ's on my half shaft I tried reassembly that way.

Nah, you can't hit it to re-assemble, the needlerollers will shoot out every time. Martin.

Yes, I learn't that the hard way - twice. I won't be doing it that way again!

Dave

[Phil]

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StagnJag wrote:

Stagdad wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

isn't it annoying when you write a long reply and then accidentally loose it all :X.

Regards

Dave

Very Dave,

When i type alarge chunk (Not often) i always save it to the clipboard before sending just in case

Steve

I do that sometimes, I usualy remember just too late though!:?

Dave

Yeb Control C for me posted too many photos that were too large first attempt :shock:

Phil