It's Never That Easy

[DJT]

OK. Today I decided tofit the propshaft U/Js I bought recently. Had another look at the exhaust to see which was the best way to get the propshaft out and decided to go with removing the nearside silencer. First off I went to take off the front n/s downpipe. Oh look! Whoever fitted the s/s exhaust only put 2 nuts on where it joins the manifold. OK, one less to take off. Just as well because despite copious WD40 and running the engine to get heat there I still manage to shear off the other two studs. B******s!!!

Change of priorities then. Forget the propshaft for now, lets get the manifold sorted. Manage to get a drill onto one broken stud and drill it out. Re-tapped to 5/16 UNF but still very sloppy. Re-drilled and helicoiled that one. The other not so simple. Couldn't get access to drill it straight because of the anti-roll bar and oil cooler. Went up to my local tool shop and he had some Trend Mini-Chucks. These are small chucks c/w replaceable drill bits and they have hexagonal drive, so I was able to use it in my drill will a long hex-drive which got past the obstructions. Excellent tools.

Propshaft U/Js now fitted and just having a breather before refitting it all. At least I confirmed that the front one was knackered. It looked like the one in the photo posted recently. Happy days.

Dave

[Stagdad]

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Dave ,

You should know to assume the worst every time by now :X,When something like that has happened to me it always looks lessdepressing after i've walked away had a meal and bath and thought now how bad is it .Usually the answer is not that bad it's just going to cost me more money:?

At Least you back up and running ,hopfully i'll be able to say thesame in a week or two.

Cheers Steve

[V8 Rumbler]

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DJT wrote:

OK. Today I decided tofit the propshaft U/Js I bought recently. Had another look at the exhaust to see which was the best way to get the propshaft out and decided to go with removing the nearside silencer. First off I went to take off the front n/s downpipe. Oh look! Whoever fitted the s/s exhaust only put 2 nuts on where it joins the manifold. OK, one less to take off. Just as well because despite copious WD40 and running the engine to get heat there I still manage to shear off the other two studs. B******s!!!

Change of priorities then. Forget the propshaft for now, lets get the manifold sorted. Manage to get a drill onto one broken stud and drill it out. Re-tapped to 5/16 UNF but still very sloppy. Re-drilled and helicoiled that one. The other not so simple. Couldn't get access to drill it straight because of the anti-roll bar and oil cooler. Went up to my local tool shop and he had some Trend Mini-Chucks. These are small chucks c/w replaceable drill bits and they have hexagonal drive, so I was able to use it in my drill will a long hex-drive which got past the obstructions. Excellent tools.

Propshaft U/Js now fitted and just having a breather before refitting it all. At least I confirmed that the front one was knackered. It looked like the one in the photo posted recently. Happy days.

Dave

Well done Dave --Bet you are releaved that bit is over with:shock:

What did you do after 'morning coffee' then?

Darren

[DJT]

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V8 Rumbler wrote:

What did you do after 'morning coffee' then?

Ha! Ha!

I've given up for today. Decided to fit a new g/box rear seal before putting the propshaft back. Can't get one locally until mid-morning tomorrow, so it will be afternoon before I slot it all back together again.
This is the type of drill bit that got me out of trouble. I bought individual 4 & 6mm ones rather than the set.


Dave

[RogerP]

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DJT wrote:

OK. Today I decided tofit the propshaft U/Js I bought recently. Had another look at the exhaust to see which was the best way to get the propshaft out and decided to go with removing the nearside silencer. First off I went to take off the front n/s downpipe. Oh look! Whoever fitted the s/s exhaust only put 2 nuts on where it joins the manifold. OK, one less to take off. Just as well because despite copious WD40 and running the engine to get heat there I still manage to shear off the other two studs. B******s!!!

Change of priorities then. Forget the propshaft for now, lets get the manifold sorted. Manage to get a drill onto one broken stud and drill it out. Re-tapped to 5/16 UNF but still very sloppy. Re-drilled and helicoiled that one. The other not so simple. Couldn't get access to drill it straight because of the anti-roll bar and oil cooler. Went up to my local tool shop and he had some Trend Mini-Chucks. These are small chucks c/w replaceable drill bits and they have hexagonal drive, so I was able to use it in my drill will a long hex-drive which got past the obstructions. Excellent tools.

Propshaft U/Js now fitted and just having a breather before refitting it all. At least I confirmed that the front one was knackered. It looked like the one in the photo posted recently. Happy days.

Dave

Hi Dave

Bit late now butif you remove the tailpipes, there is enough flex to slide the propshaft out, even if you have to undo the g/box mount. Much easier that taking the front pipes off.

Roger

[Russell]

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Like you say mate nothings ever that easy!!!!

Glad its all come together tho

[DJT]

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RogerP wrote:

Hi Dave

Bit late now butif you remove the tailpipes, there is enough flex to slide the propshaft out, even if you have to undo the g/box mount. Much easier that taking the front pipes off.

Roger

Hi Roger,

Yes, Bob Heritage suggested the same a while ago, but I didn't fancy struggling with the three rubber mounts for the tailpipe. Little blighters always put up a fight. I went that way when I changed to diff last month and whilst it was out I stripped and undersealed the floorpan from heel board to rear valance. I didn't want to risk messing this up by struggling with the rubbers. Ah well! Live and learn!

Dave

[StagnJag]

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I am in the process of doing the prop shaft UJ's as well.

Having had trouble with the manifold studs in the past, I opted to remove the exhaust from the back. The fixings are fresh so it was relatively easy to dismantle. As the prop was coming out it was an ideal opportunity to remove some more underseal, de-rust and repaint. also the handbrake handle gaiter needs replacing, to my horror I realised that to replace the gaiter, the handbrake lever has to be removed. To get the handbrake lever off, the carpet over the tunnel has to be pulled out of the way. to get the carpet out of the way, the front seats have to come out. And finally, due to the way my seatbelt recepticles are fitted, I had to remove them to get the carpet up :shock:. And while the prop is out it is getting a lick of paint as well.

It is amazing how a job on the Stag leads to another and another and another....


Dave

[stustag]

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Hi Dave

This is my to do list for the Easter Holiday, I think I will take the tail pipes off!

Stuart

[NickA]

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OK folks; just run the minimum amount of hardware I need to remove before takingthe propshalf of the Stag past me again. I've only ever done it with the complete exhaust off.

1) front NS down pipe+ silencer ? Easy on mine as I re-tapped and replaced the manifold studs after I stripped them a few year back; and they're fitted with brass nuts. (no monkey jokes please)

2) rear pipes, how does that help? does this include the bits that go through the rear trailing arms as well? I'd sooner cut a hole in the transmission tunnel and take it out from above than re-fit the three rubber exhaust mounts.

[Kevin Garrod]

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With my system you don't need to remove the exhaust at all to get at the prop shaft.

I know that's no help but I thought I'd share it with you.

[stustag]

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Kevin Garrod wrote:

With my system you don't need to remove the exhaust at all to get at the prop shaft.

I know that's no help but I thought I'd share it with you.

Nice Kev real nice but totally usless to us lot!:P:P

As per taking the tail pipes off the silencers drop just enough to remove the prop.

I must admit I will be replacing the diff with my 3.45:1 version at the same time so they have got to come off anyway.

Stuart

[martin]

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NickA wrote:

OK folks; just run the minimum amount of hardware I need to remove before takingthe propshalf of the Stag past me again. I've only ever done it with the complete exhaust off.

Hiya Nick, if you're lucky, you don't have to drop the exhaust, unbolt the exhaust chassis mounts near the front, this gives some flexibility to move the pipes apart, remove the bolts from the diff end, move the prop to one side and it should slide off the splines, depending on your trans of course,and with a little persuasion the prop should squeeze out between them, forwards I think. Worked for me and my silencers are the wide ones, worth a try. Martin.