Electric water pump.......AGAIN!

[Sheepdip]

Still considering an EWP, like the reliability, heat soak runon and lack of leaksbut a couple of things hold me back;

1) Lack of thermostat, relying on "pulsing" during warmup - I'm working on this.

2) Have to fit extra heater pump - thispuzzles me. The standard Stag pump happily pumps the heater circuit, the EWP fitted lower in effectively the same pipe doesn't -or is it just during the warmup "pulsing" stage? The heater circuit comes off back of LH head, does this mean the EWP doesn't provide sufficient flow round the back of the heads?

Paul

[alan_thomas]

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Paul, the reason the EWP does not pump the heater (or bypass circuit) is that these normally feed into the inlets on the mech pump top housing and both are effectively on the 'suck' side of the pump.
If you remove the mech pump and add an EWP down where the alternator normally sits these inlets in the pump housing are now on the 'blow' side of the EWP. This means nothing will flow in these circuits as both the heater feed and return are connected to the 'Blow' side of the EWP.
For this reason I have coupled both the heater return and bypass feed together and connected them via a new pipe to a custom made union on the 'suck' side of the EWP.

If you intend to fit the EWP in additional to the existing pump then the standard Heater and Bypass connections will work, however I cannot see any point in doing this as it does not resolve the weaknesses in the standard pump drive.
- Alan

[Sheepdip]

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Alan.What a twit, obvious now you put it like that, the heater is effectively each side of the mechanical pump. Solves that one anyway.

I'm still on the fence on the EWP hence engine still in bits.

Have you tried your setup yet?

Paul

[RogerP]

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Sheepdip wrote:

Still considering an EWP, like the reliability, heat soak runon and lack of leaksbut a couple of things hold me back;

1) Lack of thermostat, relying on "pulsing" during warmup - I'm working on this.

2) Have to fit extra heater pump - thispuzzles me. The standard Stag pump happily pumps the heater circuit, the EWP fitted lower in effectively the same pipe doesn't -or is it just during the warmup "pulsing" stage? The heater circuit comes off back of LH head, does this mean the EWP doesn't provide sufficient flow round the back of the heads?

Paul

Come on Paul you know you want to do it........you've been talking about it long enough.........have a word with John (Koy33) he's just done his!!!! give Mick a ring at EJ Wards he's got a Triumph 2000 with a Stag engine fitted and he's been running EWP for a few years.............I know you've read the many post's that I and others have put on here, at the moment I'm running a 82deg thermostat withtwo 8mm holes drilled in to allow circulation before the stat opens the sensor is fitted in the R/H transfer housing this seems to be the best position IMHO, and yes I'm still having a bit of a problem getting the pump to run constantly when the air temp is down but nothing like it used to be, and all I do now is drop the digital controller down to 80deg and that seems to fix it....when the air temp rises I just adjust it to around 90deg...................There are others on here who have fitted EWP!!!! come on guys give us your findings.......if you have fitted one to replace the mechanical pump tell us about it....the water pump problem is not going to go away...personally I think this is a good modification it gets rid of leaking water pump seals.....it helps get rid of heat build up when you turn of the engine........as I say I think it's OK but I'm biased I've got one fitted, so far have only covered 5 -6 thousand miles.

Roger

[Sheepdip]

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Hi Roger, reckon you're right! Maybe best to fit EWP then work on it - at least it would get the engine finished, still in bits pending do I/do I not fit the dreaded mech pump.........I'm even considering the 4spd auto kit now instead of doing my own.

I need to see a doctor.

Paul.

[KOY 23]

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Mine is up and running using the same set up as Roger but I still have my mechanical fan. Only problem is that takes longer to warm up with 3 x 5mm holes in the stat.

I will wait for the warmer weather before next step which will probably removing the mechanical fan.

John.

[Sheepdip]

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Thanks for the notes John. I used to run my other engine without stat so guess similar spow warmpup.

What I'd be looking to do longterm tho is redirect the stat bypass (and heater) to enable full stat and heater. Also, cause I'm not in favour of the "pulsing" would be to design my own controller.

Its just time........so guess I may do as Roger suggested and go for it now.

Paul

[KOY 23]

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Hello Paul.
Yes it would be good to get bypass working properly and go back to standard stat. Heater is fine as I have a small booster pump. These are details, the main decision is remove the mech pump and bung in the bung. Pump plumbing is easy and controller options can be done in time.

john.

[Guest]

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I put a EWP in my car about 7 or 8 years ago and have had no problems or issues of any kind. I put the battery in the back where the soft top is stored (perfect fit) and placed the water pump in the battery box. No need to move or modify anything on the engine. Fitting was simple and the pump is easily accessible. The old mechanical pump was taken out and a small CNC plug put in the lower hole. I also removed the thermostat. Up until a week ago I used the first generation controller but recently switched to the digital model. The digital is far more adjustable and allows you to lower the temp as you see fit. I use a normal radiator fan and a helper pump for the heater. The engine temperature stays steady no matter what the outside temp is or how hard the engine works.
The best part is no leaks of any kind from under the manifold! The company was very easy to deal with and I would recommend it strongly as a option to the mechanical unit.
George

[V8 Rumbler]

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Sounds good George---keep us posted and welcome to the forum

Darren

[RogerP]

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GeorgeH wrote:

I put a EWP in my car about 7 or 8 years ago and have had no problems or issues of any kind. I put the battery in the back where the soft top is stored (perfect fit) and placed the water pump in the battery box. No need to move or modify anything on the engine. Fitting was simple and the pump is easily accessible. The old mechanical pump was taken out and a small CNC plug put in the lower hole. I also removed the thermostat. Up until a week ago I used the first generation controller but recently switched to the digital model. The digital is far more adjustable and allows you to lower the temp as you see fit. I use a normal radiator fan and a helper pump for the heater. The engine temperature stays steady no matter what the outside temp is or how hard the engine works.
The best part is no leaks of any kind from under the manifold! The company was very easy to deal with and I would recommend it strongly as a option to the mechanical unit.
George

Hi George

Welcome to the forum..........it's interesting to read you've had no problems, because in my case I've had problems getting the pump to run constantly in low ambient air temperatures, hence the reason I've put the thermostat back in, removed the engine fan and fitted the sensor in the R/H transfer housing.

Do you only use the car in fairly high ambient air temperatures? and were have you fitted the sensor for the pump?

Like you I feel this is a good alternative to the original pump and gets rid of the leaks plus you get the run on after engine shut down to help get rid of hot spots.

Roger

[Guest]

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Hi Roger,

I put the temp sensor right in the thermostat housing, fairly deep in the back as they suggest. Originally when I set up the controller 8 years ago, the temp was fairly high before the pump kicked in. Davies Craig sent me a resistor for the circuit which cured it . The digital unit works fine. The light tells me when the pump cycles. My pump is where the battery used to be so I can easily feel it vibrate a little as it ramps up. Otherwise I can't hear it unless the engine is off. I'm in the States so the temperature varies from freezing up to the low nineties (F) in the summer.
George

[Guest]

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Roger,
One more thing. At low temps , the pump cycles properly as they designed it with so many seconds on then off. It slowly goes into constant mode as the temp increases.
I was originally concerned that this initial flow wasn't sufficient but it works. This is of course without a thermostat and with the old pump removed and blocked. Davies Craig assured me that they haven't had any problems and that this cycling when cold is the proper way to cool the engine. I would never go back to the old style pump.
George

[Sheepdip]

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Very interested in your experience George. I like the pump location to - very novel and away from the exhaust.

I can understand the necessity of pulsing the warmup without the statand wonder if the manufacturer reinforces this with the arguement of better warmup. Watching my capillary gauge this morning, the engine was up to temperature in just 2 miles, theres a lot of heat being generated to pulse round.That said I do like the pros such as pump speed being related to water temperature than engine speed and the run on after turning it off. And no more leaks!

Paul

[Sheepdip]

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George sent me this photo of the EWP in his Stag. Never thought of moving the battery, it frees up a lot of space. Often wonder why the designers insisted in cramming the O/S engine bay with pipes and ancillaries - was it a Christmas competition to see who could P*** the production line off the most?

Paul