Heater Valve

[marshman]

Before refilling my cooling system I thought I would investigate my non-functioning heater - it blows cold all the time.

There are two problems:
1) the outer cable from the Hot/Cold control has come away from the clip so moving the lever doesn't move anything on the heater box - I have fixed this.
2) It came out again because the valve is stuck shut

I remember seeing something in the magazine a few months ago about how to get the valve apartto free it up. I took the last 12 months magazines to bed last night, much to the disgust of SWMBO:?, but couldn't find it anywhere.

Can someone tell me which issue the article was in or give me some hints on how to solve the problem. The lever to the valve does move bu hand but it is very tight and looks as though it is just slipping under a small philips screw and not rotating the valve.:X

Thanks

Roger

[Bob Heritage]

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Roger, it's issue 325 Feb 09. If you can move it slightly by hand, I would keep working on it and you will probably manage to get it to move more easily.

Bob

[stagmoneypit]

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Hi
I am looking into remanufacturing stag heater valves in the near future, do you think it would be worthwhile and if so does anyone have an original one available in good condition to use as pattern?

Stainless steel or brass?

Cheers Glen
(ANG Triumph)

PS Any other suggestions for remanufacturing projects from forum members would be very much welcomed!

[marshman]

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Thanks Bob, found the mag - doesn't help me much as someone has "had a go" before and the screw is chewed up:XThe valve appears to be seized solid - the lever just moves on its own.

I think I will have to bend the lever away from the valve and make some sort of puller to hook under it to get it apart - I really don't want to remove the whole heater unit.

Roger

[brian0443]

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Morning Roger

The lever not only moves the barrell of the valve, but holds it in place as the ends clip over the body of the valve. When you say the screw is chewed up I assume you mean the head of the screw is mangled and wont take a screwdriver. Have you tried cutting a new slot across it? It shouldn't be very tight. Or file off the head, lift off the lever, and grab the remaining threads with small vise-grips. You really do need to get a new screw in there to have any hope of shifting the valve, whether you work with the heater in the car or remove it.

Brian

[marshman]

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Thanks all for the advice. I cut a slot in the screw and managed to get it out - it was quite tight though.

Made a puller up as per the magazine and the valve itself was suprisingly easy to pull out

Cleaned it up and reassembled and all seems to work OK.

Just have to fill up with coolant tomorrow and hopefully if I've put the heads and inlet manifold back on correctly I'll be on the road again.

Glen - I think you would need to do a pole to guage demand for a remanufactured valve. Mine showed no sign of corrosion. My car is an early one (LD510) and the heater looks original. If you do remanufacture one I think I would stick to brass - It would be a real pain tapping the small thread in stainless.

Roger

[Stagdad]

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Roger

Have a look at this thread ,my post 13 th from the top is how i got mine out.

http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...+valve+missing



Cheers Steve

Just noticed you've cracked it ,well done

[Guest]

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marshman wrote:

Thanks all for the advice. I cut a slot in the screw and managed to get it out - it was quite tight though.

Tell you what guys, this forum alone is worth the subs ! Nicely done Roger. Martin.

[brian0443]

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Well done Roger

By the way the advice is to use silicone grease to lubricate the O ring. Vaseline/normal greasewill eventually perish the rubber and in another ten, fifteen years you will have to do the job over again

Brian

[Guest]

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brian0443 wrote:

Well done Roger

By the way the advice is to use silicone grease to lubricate the O ring. Vaseline/normal greasewill eventually perish the rubber and in another ten, fifteen years you will have to do the job over again

Brian

I'll be 105 by then, don't think I could cope with all that bending ! :? Martin.

[TimShoubridge]

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Martin Stevenson wrote:

brian0443 wrote:

Well done Roger

By the way the advice is to use silicone grease to lubricate the O ring. Vaseline/normal greasewill eventually perish the rubber and in another ten, fifteen years you will have to do the job over again

Brian

I'll be 105 by then, don't think I could cope with all that bending ! :? Martin.

Blimey Martin, are you serious?

[Guest]

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TimShoubridge wrote:

Martin Stevenson wrote:

brian0443 wrote:

Well done Roger

By the way the advice is to use silicone grease to lubricate the O ring. Vaseline/normal greasewill eventually perish the rubber and in another ten, fifteen years you will have to do the job over again

Brian

I'll be 105 by then, don't think I could cope with all that bending ! :? Martin.

Blimey Martin, are you serious?

Me, serious ? no mate, not quite. Martin.

[jbuckl]

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Hi
I am looking into remanufacturing stag heater valves in the near future, do you think it would be worthwhile and if so does anyone have an original one available in good condition to use as pattern?

Stainless steel or brass?

Cheers Glen
(ANG Triumph)

PS Any other suggestions for remanufacturing projects from forum members would be very much welcomed!

I thought brass ones were available.
Have they all gone?

Suggestion:-
Stainless steel exhaust hanger brackets, bolts & clamps.

[Guest]

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jbuckl wrote:

Hi
I am looking into remanufacturing stag heater valves in the near future, do you think it would be worthwhile and if so does anyone have an original one available in good condition to use as pattern?

Stainless steel or brass?

Cheers Glen
(ANG Triumph)

PS Any other suggestions for remanufacturing projects from forum members would be very much welcomed!

I thought brass ones were available.
Have they all gone?

Suggestion:-
Stainless steel exhaust hanger brackets, bolts & clamps.

How about stainless carb brackets and fittings ? VERY difficult to keep smart even when cad plated. Martin.

[pennine]

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stagmoneypit wrote:

Hi
I am looking into remanufacturing stag heater valves in the near future, do you think it would be worthwhile and if so does anyone have an original one available in good condition to use as pattern?

Stainless steel or brass?

Cheers Glen
(ANG Triumph)

PS Any other suggestions for remanufacturing projects from forum members would be very much welcomed!

The Mk 1 and MK 2 valves are different as I have found out. Robsport recently sent me a secondhand item that was too big for my heater. A phone call to them suggested a wipe with emery paper should sort it as the MK 1 valves are smaller.

Sorry I don't have a good MK1 valve as mine was destroyed in the removal process.