Getting my engine back in

[magic magenta]

Hello

This is my first listing please take it easy on me.

I am at the point now to fit the Rover V8 engine back in my 1974 Stag, What i am after is any helpfull hints and tips that could make the job go without too many hitches.

I'm at you mercy.

[Chris810]

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are you fitting with or without gearbox?

[magic magenta]

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I was thinking with the gearbox

[Mark S]

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I take it you are using an engine crane? I've not fitted an RV8 but I assume that you fit it without the exhaust manifolds?If so, my method may not work, or you could fit manifold studs to limit the strop movement.

Sling itwith a fabric strop around the sump with the hook as low as possible sothat the gearbox hangs down at about 45 degreess. Fitan adjustable ratchet strap around the gearbox to the chain above the hook to control the angle. Tension the ratchet strap to lift the back of the gearbox to the same level as the sump.Lift the crane to maximum height. Jack the car to a height that the engine will still clear the front. stand it on axle stands!. Push the engine over the hole, lower the gearbox and remove the ratchet strap. The back of the gearbox can be fed into the tunnel, as you lower the crane.Continue to push and lower until the front pulley has passed the bodywork, restthe back of the gearbox on a trolley jack and ty-rap it on. At this point, my engine crane reach is a little short. Icut a piece of 3x3 to fit inside the chassis legs and rested the sump on it, then re slung the engine between 1&3 instesd of 5&7 exhaust ports. Then raise theengine slightlyremove the wood and push back and lower so that the sump clears the cross member.Engine nearly in. Raise the back of the gearbox with the trolley jack to the fitted height. Fit the four engine mounting bolts(easier said than done) lower the back of the gearbox, fit the gearbox cross member, raise and bolt to the floor.

I use the crane at full extension, 250kg rating. This is adequate for the load. The RV8 will be lighter. I could probably get away without having to reposition the strop half way through if the bumper was removed. It seemed a tighter fit with the manual box but has been sucessful with both. A second pair of hands is a must.

Best of luck and hope this helps.

Mark.

Is Pimento the new Magenta?

[Chris810]

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I have never fitted a rover V8 buy I assume the procedure would be the same as I use

personally I fit with the exhaust manifolds on ( they are a bitch to fit afterwards ) and sling from the 2nd manifold branch in with a spreader piece of timber across the top of the inlet manifold to stop the strop bearing on the cam covers. This with the gearbox fitted hangs at almost the correct angle which is very gearbox down (about 25-30 degrees is about right )

To make the job easier I jack up the back of the car which makes the entry angle less and stops the gearbox rear hitting the ground before the engine is in place.

Be aware that at some point the sump will be very close to the front panel and the gearbox will also be very close to the top of the tunnel About 1/2" usually is the max clearance !

Be safe be steady, don't rest the sump on the power steering rack and damage the pipes, don't trap any cables. ENJOY!

[Mark S]

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I fit the cast manifolds first too, can you fit the tubular manifoldsbefore dropping the engine in? I would think it would make things rathertight.

Getting the sump to drop behind the cross member was my worst bit.I had the back wheels stood on four bricks, but an extra brick would have made things easier.

Fitting the engine is a doddle compared to fitting the exhaust front pipes!

Mark.

[magic magenta]

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Hi

Thanks for the tips.

Friday is going to be the big day,I think i have everything i am going to need now.Just not looking forward to doing the wiring afterwards as they look a real mess lots of joints and black tape.

And not looking forward to doing the exhausts (thanks Mark)

Thanks again

Martin

[Chris810]

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Tell us how you got on

[magic magenta]

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What can i say the engine went in a dream.

With the back end on ramps and the engine set about 45 degs lowered the gearbox down on to the jack under the car, jack the gearbox up and bolt on the mounting bracket do up the engine mounts JOB DONE.

About 20 mins from picking the engine up on the hoist to doing up the engine mounts.it must have been my lucky day.

Thanks for the advice i had been putting that job off for weeks.

Only afew hundred jobs before i get back on the road.

[Chris810]

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great! now get on with the other jobs, stop slacking!

[Sheepdip]

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I found this interesting as previously I've had a lot of experience() in removing gearbox first followed by engine, put off by the length of the combned unit. I'd like to try the whole lot next time and have a couple of queries:

1) What sort of adjustable ratchet do you use to level the unit Mark - do you mean the webbing with ratchet on the end type or is there another type recommended?

2) Which bits of the exhaust do you need to remove before taking out can you get away with just front pipes or is it the whole lot?

3) With your experience on this, If faced with aclutch change would you remove box or whole unit? [I will be replacing with manual next time].

nb - I currently have a 65auto and found I can lift engine out with box in the car.

Sheepdip

[Mark S]

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The adjustable ratchet that I use is just one of those with the 2" webbing and a metal handle - the type commonly used to tie loads onto trailers or cars onto transporters. Not ideal but it's what I haveto hand in the garage and it works.
Just the front pipes need to come off. You are fortunate in having a '65 asthe prop is flanged at the front. It is just possible to remove the '35 prop between therear of the silincers.

I've changedtwo 35 boxes from under the car but left the bell housing and torque converter in place. I had the engine out when I fitted the manual box. You have to be careful not to let the manual box hang by theinput shaftas this will damage the bearings and the box needed to be jiggled to get it into the pilot bearing and onto the casing dowels (that I used instead of the dowel bolts that were long gone).This would not have been so easy laid under the car.

The risk of damaging the bodywork comes with removing the engine but has the benefit of easy access to the bolts and easier working conditions.

Working under the car I find more of a pain, but definitely quicker.

Mark.